Colin’s turn to host Monday Table, with La Tâche as the theme wine. A fabulous evening was had by all.
2011 Larmandier-Bernier Champagne Grand Cru Vieille Vigne du Levant Extra Brut : A toasty, brioche note greets the nose. With air it shows a slight herbal character and some Arum lily florals. It has good intensity and some bitter citrus rind freshness to the dry finish.
2011 Philipponnat Champagne Extra Brut Clos des Goisses : 100% Pinot Noir and low dosage at 4 g/l. It has notes of peach, red fruits and aniseed. It is direct, compact and linear and quite chalky. It has good cut and drive.
1992 Roger Caillot Bâtard-Montrachet, Grand Cru: Plenty of struck match to the aroma. There’s a hint of mushroom and mildly exotic fruits. It is rich, dense and chewy. Built like red wine. There’s some Autumnal leaves development and good power and authority to the long finish.
1995 Roger Caillot Bâtard-Montrachet, Grand Cru: One of the better white wines I have had this year. Complex aromatics of white peach, smoky mineral and floral spice. It is rich, layered and powerful, with wonderful shape. Fruits have a light exotic note and the finish drives on and on. Old school white Burg at its best.
1996 Roger Caillot Bâtard-Montrachet, Grand Cru: More advanced than the two older wines but still pleasurable. There’s some honeycomb and apple along with candied peach. The palate has good chew and a line of sharp minerally acidity. It is powerful and very long.
2004 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche, Grand Cru : Upon first sniff I wrote down ‘ this is La Tâche’. Had the classic Hoisin, sandalwood and rose petal thing going on. There’s some ginger spice, a lacy feel against the gums and it is an elegant wine of supreme balance. It has terrific persistence. I’ve been lucky enough to have had this a few times and it is the wine of the vintage for mine. A truly excellent La Tâche.
2005 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche, Grand Cru : Deep, dark and surly. Some meaty sauvage and leather. It has a concentrated heart of black cherry fruit. It is powerful and savoury but not offering any real pleasure at this stage.
2008 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche, Grand Cru : A pretty nose of light florals, black tea, sweet earth, orange peel and soy. It is silky of texture and builds through the palate, fanning out on the finish. It is carried by a fine line of minerally acidity. Lovely proportion and balance.
2003 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche, Grand Cru : A touch of meaty reduction to the aroma. Breathes up well in the glass to show notes of Arum lily, black cherry and Hoisin. It has a rich and intense mid-palate with perfect ripeness. It is accessible, layered and very long. An outstanding 2003.
2000 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche, Grand Cru : So much rose petal fragrance here. There are black tea and hoisin notes and the fruit flavours are of the red persuasion. It builds through the palate and has underlying saline minerality. The finish is expansive and long.
1998 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche, Grand Cru : This was an unhappy bottle. Far too much V.A. There’s a suggestion of beef stock, but the palate is tart and mean.
1964 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche, Grand Cru : The nose has some truffle, smoked meats and black earth. The palate still has echoes of sweet red berry fruits. It is salty and fine, with a lacy texture and some tang to the finish. Flavours linger.
1966 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche, Grand Cru : A touch of volatility to the nose and slightly cheesy at first. Opened up nicely in the glass to show notes of chestnut, Hoisin and smoked meats. It had a sweet mid-palate and fine acid line driving the finish.
1978 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche, Grand Cru : The nose draws you in. Hoisin, sandalwood, freshly grated ginger and rose petals. It is rich and perfectly balanced. The palate is so silky, building with spice laden flavours and fanning out then lingering for a seriously long time. Close to perfection for mine.
1963 Quinta do Noval Porto Vintage Nacional: This was sheer perfection. So fresh and intense, loaded with red fruits. Rich and spicy, intense and layered. Cut with beautiful floral spirit. Such presence, power and authority without an ounce of fat. Incredible drive and length with licorice flavours that linger on and on.