This Michelin one star, downgraded after a chef change from two stars, was eagerly anticipated on our one night in London, as we were returning home through London after Istanbul, Vienna, and Prague. A small restaurant, we were greeted by a somewhat confused hostess who had us walk around the two room restaurant to choose a table, unable to speak intelligibly in either English or French. We concluded later, when she brought a check to the table before we had even had our amuse bouche, that she may have been a bit handicapped and forgive her befuddlement.
We sat for about 20 minutes before being greeted and given a menu, then another 10 before the requested carte des vins was brought. We wondered if we were invisible, though we could see each other and those around us. The back of my chair was repeatedly bumped by the servers who did not note the frequent encounters, so perhaps we were hard to see.
The menu was not explained, the servers were too aloof and disinterested to convey any enthusiasm or information regarding the cuisine. The words they spoke were monotonous and the minimum needed to convey their message, robotic and disinterested rather than haughty or condescending. The first plates were introduced by a server who needs to learn how to enunciate; a brief course in elocution would have helped. It was not a language barrier, as I am conversant in English and French, but a service barrier.
The white wine, a 2006 V. Dauvissat Forest Chablis, obviously just pulled from a refrigerator, was served at near ice cold temperature and took an hour of swirling and cupping in one’s hands to warm to a temperature where it could be appreciated for the fine wine it was, and then it showed quite unevolved–as I suspect it had spent its entire post-bottling life in that cold refrigerator. By contrast, the 1999 L’Arlot Suchots was served at the perfect cellar temperature and showed quite nicely, but is not a blockbuster wine, more a wine of finesse and breeding.
The food was quite good, presentation beautiful on lovely dinnerware/china, inventive combinations–I loved the langoustine/suckling pig combination, enjoyed the quail appetizer, and was quite taken with the partridge entrée, my first time eating that bird, served with a perfectly cooked small piece of foie. All courses were delicious, though dropped off as unceremoniously as if we were being served a quick breakfast at Denny’s or The House of Pancakes. Timing was erratic, with brief and then long pauses between courses. We were given dessert menus and then sat for at least 30 minutes before being asked for an order.
Service of 12.5% was added to the bill; I suspect most diners would not have been that generous given the option.
The saving grace–beside quite excellent food–was the charming sommelier who asked where we were from and actually engaged us regarding the wines and restaurant. He had a quick smile, a lot of kindness in his voice and actions, and was so out of place with his interest in this otherwise disinterested restaurant.
We won’t go back. There are too many fine restaurants that welcome their guests and make them feel comfortable. In fact, this experience motivates me to register on Yelp and perhaps OpenTable to render my opinion to others. The fine cuisine of this restaurant is tarnished by the unmotivated, disinterested staff that should be summarily dismissed–with the exception of the kind sommelier.