Oh boy, the release emails just keep coming in. Got an email from Littorai today - they look interesting. Any thoughts / guidance on what they’re known for and what to pick up? I’m already looking down the barrel at Bedrock, Keplinger, and Ceritas, and no telling what else is on it’s way, so if this is one I might want to pass on, appreciate any thoughts on that too. CT scores looked decent, but not as high as some of the other wines listed.
Not exactly sure what wines are going to be up for offer, but I wouldn’t feel good about missing them completely. I went up there to taste recently and their Chardonnay is definitely among the best of California, along with Ceritas. Would recommend at least buying the Chard to taste against Ceritas in fact. In addition to that, I’d rec their Anderson Valley PN.
I attended the Littorai dinner at West of West Wine Festival in Sebastopol last week and all the wines we had were very good. They are known for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. We had a library vintage Chard from Mays Canyon (1997), a 2011 Platt Vineyard Pinot Noir, a 2011 The Pivot Pinot Noir, Estate Bottled, the 2011 Mays Canyon Pinot Noir, the 2011 Hirsch Vineyard Piniot Noir, and the 2011 Savoy Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). (The other Pinots were all Sonoma Coast.) The Pivot and the Hirsch were my favorites but the Pivot was more reasonably priced. Most of the people sitting near me prefered The Pivot to the Platt.
Thanks Robert - kind of what I was thinking…pick up 3-4 bottles.
Thanks Jane.
I didn’t keep a copy of the wines they were offering for sale at the dinner, but from memory: Chards - '97 Mays Canyon ($150!), '11 Thieriot, '11 Mays Canyon; Pinots - '11 Pivot, '11 Platt, '11 Mays Canyon, '11 Hirsch, '11 Savoy, '11 Cerise, and possibly one more '11 AV (maybe Roman). I would guess a good part of that list will be available in next weeks offer - wouldn’t count on both the '11 Chards (or the Heintz) since those “sold out” first in the original offer, but they were pouring the Thieriot Chard at WoW which suggests they still have a fair amount of that left. They typically also release the SC and AV appellation blend Pinots in the Fall, altho last year I don’t think they came out until the pickup week in Oct. If you aren’t familiar with their wines and don’t want to commit $65-80 a bottle for the SVDs, the appellation wines give you a good view into the Littorai style at $20+ a bottle less and are made to be enjoyed younger. And they should be especially good from the '12 vintage.
From the wines they served at dinner the Savoy was the most open and very easy to drink, all the others were a little tight. Like Jane I also really liked the Pivot and Hirsch, but I think the latter will take a few more years sideways to reach its potential. Unfortunately Ted’s tasting notes aren’t on the website right now, but presumably they’ll be back up when the offer goes live, and they offer a great guide. Since folks have been reccing the Ceritas and Littorai Chards in the same post I feel compelled to note that I find them both to be well made but also stylistically very different - Littorai somewhat richer and with more prominent oak (at least the Thieriot), the Ceritas a bit leaner and with a lot less oak.
They offered the '11 SVDs during their Spring release and quickly sold out a number of them. I can’t recall the full list but remember many of the Chards along with the Hirsch, One Acre and Thieriot selling out.
From past experience, they will offer the '12 appellation blends along with what’s left of everything else. I’m guessing many of the Anderson SVD Pinots.
I’ve never regretted a purchase this far.
I haven’t had the recent Thieriot Chardonnay, but, like others I like Ceritas and also like Littorai Theriot and sometimes Mays Canyon. So, unless I read otherwise I am in for a couple of those if they are offered to me.
The Fall Offering includes wines offered in the Winter offering but not shipped until later in the year. I think it is most of the Pinots.
I assume it’s OK to paste here, so here is the text from the Winter letter:
Dear Friends:
Winter 2013
Thank you for your continued support of Littorai! It is your patronage that allows us to be passionately committed to crafting wines of elegance, finesse and terroir.
There are times of abundance in the wine world and times of shortage. The combined effects of 2010 and 2011 have lead to times of shortage. 2011 vineyard designated Pinot Noir production is the lowest since 2005. 2011 Chardonnay production is the lowest at Littorai since 1998! Despite the shortage, wine quality in both varieties is excellent. Wines are never any better than the quality of the vineyard and fruit from which they originate. The excellence of 2011 is due to the hard won labors of our vineyard manager Pedro Viramontes and his whole crew.
We are obliged to restrict the access to the Chardonnays to our longest term customers, and even for you we are forced to restrict the amount of wine available. The smallest quantity Pinot Noir bottlings will also be in very short supply in 2011, notably, One Acre, Thieriot and The Haven. We encourage you to order quickly because the very small quantities mean that the wines will not be available for long.
Weather Notes
2011 did not see the heat waves which ended the 2010 summer. Like 2010, it was a very cool summer compared to normal. This brought intense mildew and botrytis pressure to the vines of both varieties (most acutely to Chardonnay). The key however, was the low bloom time temperatures which led to a spotty set of small clusters with small berries. Cool and blustery conditions delayed vine development right up until a significant rainfall event in early June. This completely charged the soil moisture profile, ensuring that no early season irrigation would be required at any sites. On June 12th a dramatic change in the weather brought us finer conditions. Flowering was late, the second half of June for all sites. As indicated above, the set was very modest with many sites producing very small, seedless, “shot” berries. While such berries are great for wine quality due to the large skin to juice ratio, they dramatically reduce yields.
Cool and foggy July and August lead to the most intense mildew pressure that I can remember. We were forced to drop damaged fruit in several vineyards, most dramatically in Thieriot Chardonnay, where the removal of mildew affected fruit left not a single cluster on some vines. During the first two weeks of September, the fog intrusion began to retreat as temperatures rose with lovely weather. We began the harvest at Mays Canyon Pinot Noir on September 17th and finished the Pinot Noir pick at the Haven on October 19th.
Early October was marked by two significant rainfall events. The first, on Oct 2-4 yielded between 2 and 5.5 inches depending upon location. This system had been predicted for some time and we harvested all the vineyards which we felt were ready or even close to ready, before the start of the storm. However, we felt that to pick any of the chardonnays, Roman, One Acre or the remaining half of The Haven, would doom the wines to declassification into our blended pinots. They simply were not ripe. Unfortunately, this storm was followed by another on October 10th. The second system produced far less rain, but it was a much warmer system and was followed by a few days of significant fog and mild conditions. Only on October 14th did a drier, warmer
pattern begin again. We picked each chardonnay vineyard as the timing seemed best and carefully sorted out botrytis both in the days prior to and on the day of, harvest. The Pinots fared better but still required extensive sorting. This travails reminded me of
my years in Burgundy, now a long time ago and of the importance of knowing when to be patient. There is no doubt in my mind that the exceptional quality of the 2011 Roman, One Acre and Haven, and of all the chardonnays, is due to our patiently waiting for true ripeness and better weather.
The Chardonnay Wines
Though the yields were meager, the wine quality is excellent. The 2011s have more concentration and better acidity than the 2010s. We think that they are more age-worthy wines and we encourage you to drink up the 2010s and lay the 2011s down in the cellar for a few years. Primary fermentations lasted approximately a month while malolactics did not complete until June for most and not until August for Thieriot. The production at the Tributary was miniscule due to the pressures of botrytis and mildew so the resulting wine has been declassified into the Sonoma Coast Chardonnay blend.
2011 Mays Canyon Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast
At bottling, this was quite a very pretty, floral version of Mays, with Granny Smith apple, wax bean, quince, yellow rose and pear blossom notes. It is a very dry and precise wine with excellent acidity, good weight on the palate and a mouthwatering, long finish.
2011 Charles Heintz Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast
This is slightly more lactic in aromatic tones than the Mays Canyon and is less open aromatically. It has tones of acacia blossom, honeysuckle, lemon verbena, and melon to accompany distinctly stony and grassy components. It is only on the palate that it reveals its future potential. It is a flinty, boney, finely etched wine with great detail. Mouthwatering and very dry, this wine will require some patience.
2011 B.A. Thieriot Vineyard Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast
Thieriot is the most mineral of the wines accompanied by acacia blossom, quince, nutmeg and roasted almond and hazelnut notes. Although upon first taste it seems the most delicate and ethereal of the three wines, it picks up weight on the palate and seems to have more sweetness now than either of the other two.
The Pinot Noir Wines
Whereas the 2010 vintage Pinot Noirs were defined by delicacy, floral tones and elegance, the 2011s are more structured, more tannic and more brooding. They possess the classic Pinot vegetal character which Michael Broadbent of Christie’s used to describe as “beetroot”. They remind us of the 2000 vintage which drinks marvelously well now, thirteen years later. It is not clear that they will live as long as the 2009s, but certainly it is a vintage to lay away in the cellar if you can.
2012 Vin Gris of Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast
The silver lining to the painfully low yields of 2011 is the bumper crop of 2012. This wine was produced from less ripe clusters in Hirsch block 6 Swann clone and from the less ripe fruit at the Haven. The 2012 version was picked at a very modest 19.0 brix and yet has a finished alcohol of 12.5%, the same as the 2011. This version was macerated on the skins for 48 hours so it has a slightly darker color than the 2011 and the aromas veer a little more towards meaty characteristics. Yet in general, the descriptors echo those of the 2011. It is a fresh and vibrant offering. Pink grapefruit, kumquat, bananas, granny smith apple and jasmine jump out of the glass. It has good mid-palate weight but plenty of acidity to keep it fresh and lingering. The wine did not undergo malolactic fermentation so the malic acid gives it a lingering crispness to the finish. Lovers of the 2011 will not be disappointed by this wine.
2011 Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast
Please note that this wine was on the fall 2012 order form also. The wine is now in short supply.
Beautifully pure raspberry tones and white pepper. Lively acidity and more tannic structure compared to Les Larmes. The long finish is dominated by red fruit tones. The relationship between the two bottling is as consistent as ever. Sonoma Coast is about structure, Les Larmes is about mid palate richness.
2011 “Les Larmes” Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley
Please note that this wine was on the fall 2011 order form also. The wine is now in short supply.
The 2011 vintage of this wine veers more towards the spice end of the aromatic spectrum and less towards fruit. On the palate it has lovely richness and well defined tannins. The Les Larmes is more tannic and therefore the mid-palate richness is more hidden. It is more spice toned than the 2010s. We are struck by the complexity and length of the 2011 version. It starts slowly, with modest aromatic volume, but on the palate it blossoms: first the tannins, then the richness and finally they have a very expansive, long and rewarding finish.
2011 Savoy Vineyard Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley
This is the most delicate and otherworldly of the 2011s. It is very open aromatically with a basket-of-flowers headiness and a sweet, moderate tannin mid palate. It has great, mouthwatering acidity and a very sustained, spicy tail. It is the most forward and drinkable of the 2011s and will be a delight to drink right away.
2011 Hirsch Vineyard Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast
Herbal notes, juniper berry, black tea, graphite and meaty tones all converge in this dark and brooding version of Hirsch. While the 2010 had a very delicate quality, the 2011 is all about concentration, density and tannin. It has an intense attack with juicy acidity and a long, complete finish. It will richly reward those who lay it down for a few years.
2011 Platt Vineyard Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast
Platt is back in wonderful form in 2011 following the declassification of the 2010 into the Sonoma Coast bottling. The 2011 has an intense color, vibrant acidity and firm, masculine tannins. Aromas of hops, bootblack, cassis, orange zest, rhubarb all leap out of the glass. The full tannins dissolve on the palate leaving the wine in great harmony. It will require some time to develop in bottle.
2011 The Pivot Vineyard Estate Bottled Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast
Sappy raspberry tones, Black Twig apple, confectionary notes, hint lactic, rhubarb and green tea. It possesses a lovely freshness imparted by the whole clusters. Supple but significant tannins with good length and harmony and a lovely tail.
2011 Cerise Vineyard Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley It is not often that Cerise produces soft tannins but the 2010 has opened and softened surprisingly quickly. The 2011 is back to its more typical drill sergeant profile: the aromas are dark, mineral, with notes of iron, forest floor and medicinal tones. It has massive tannin and a long chewy finish. Great power. Patience required.
2011 Roman Vineyard Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley
In the last few vintages Roman vineyard has really begun to shine. The vines are now twelve years old and seem to be changing. Parts of this site have very little soil, 6-8 inches underlain by very dense clay. So it has taken these vines many years to send their roots far down into the subsoil. One could make the argument that when a vineyard begins to display much greater depth of character than in its early years, this is a better measure of root density and penetration of the soil and subsoil strata than any scientific study of those roots could provide. In addition the site benefits from our having leased it in 2008 and begun the application of biodynamic farming principles at that time. This is a sexy, sweet, floral and vegetal wine with delightful confectionary notes. Aromas of forest floor, mahogany, cedar and orange peel lend a wonderful exotic tone. It has very good structure to accompany the richness, with persistent chewy tannins and a long finish. Seamless. Like the Sistine Madonna.
2011 Mays Canyon Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast
The most whole cluster influenced of the wines. It shows lots of oriental notes, red licorice, tobacco, pepper and cola notes. The mid palate is defined by a lovely tension between acidity and the substantial, slight green (from whole cluster), tannins. Like Cerise, this will require some patience.
2011 One Acre Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley
We did not bottle a 2010 version of One Acre, which was a disappointment after the complexity and intensity of the 2009 version. But it is our job to ensure that we only bottle wines at the very highest standard and we did not feel that the young vines at One Acre handled the challenges of 2010. In 2011 the wine is back in great form. Red Rome apple, Rose petal, sweet raspberry, rich palate. It is less open and giving now than Roman, with more structure and a lovely acidity. It lies in the middle of the pack in terms of tannin concentration. Less than Hirsch, Platt or Mays. Feminine wine with power.
2011 B.A. Thieriot Vineyard Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast
This is a dense, intense and complete wine with dark spices, camphor, medicinal and reductive tones and herbal notes. It explodes in the mouth and has excellent length. Patience required. Someday this will be a star.
2011 The Haven Estate Bottled Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast
Alpine strawberries, rose petal, raspberry, violets, confectionary, red candy and green tea tones all leap from the glass. This is a lush, gentle and completely harmonious wine. Despite significant tannin density it comes across as a very feminine style. It already drinks exceptionally well and will be wonderful for many years.
I would add, I agree that Ted’s note tends to be pretty accurate. I like many of the wines across the board although my favorite Pinots tend to be The Haven, Pivot, Theriot and Hirsch (incidentally all SC wines).
I also agree with his generalization on the differences between his SC, RRV and AV wines:
“How do Anderson Valley Pinot Noirs compare to the Sonoma Coast?
There is no easy response to this question since our wines are really driven by the personality of the site rather than regional characteristics. However, one can make a human analogy as follows. The region is like the skeleton upon which the wine is constructed. Without the skeleton, there is no person. Yet the skeleton tells us nothing about the personality of the individual. In very broad, grossly over simplified terms, here is how we would compare the (true) Sonoma Coast, Anderson Valley and the Russian River (thrown in for comparison’s sake). Pinot Noirs from the Sonoma Coast associate aromatics driven by spice tones (peppers, savory, sage, marjoram, Christmas cake (pain d’epices,) with significant tannic structure. These are wines of backbone. The wines of the Russian River possess lush fruit tones of blackberry, raspberry and plums associated with rich, soft and lush mid palates. Anderson Valley combines the muscular tannins of the Sonoma Coast with the darker fruit tones of the Russian River. However, even within the Littorai family, there are exceptions to this rule.”
Based on an email from Littorai it sounds like this week’s releases will include the two appellation blends plus a few recent/older large-format bottles, and probably not many leftover 2011 SVD 750s.
I learned at the Ceritas open house last Spring that the Chardonnay they call Porter-Bass is the same vineyard as what Littorai calls Mays Canyon. I was surprised at that info. I agree with others that the Littorai chards are richer and can show more oak vis a vis Ceritas.
Yes…I’m not sure how this got so confusing. I got the word at the 2008 Littorai Open House for the new winery. One of the Bass family was there and I mentioned that I liked the old Flowers “Porter Bass” (no longer produced). He proceeded to explain that the vineyard is the same one that Littorai uses; not sure about specific blocks.
Last week at the WOW festival, Phoebe Bass was pouring the Ceritas 2011 “Porter Bass” chard. She is a part owner in the winery. If you lived in the area, you’d probably know all these family connections.
I normally try to buy the Littorai Mays, but sometimes add the Theriot or Heintz. Several other wineries are using Heintz now as well.
Just got the offer letter. From what I can tell, looks like it’s exclusively PN, with the exception of some older Chards they’re selling at a premium. Disappointed as I was primarily interested in the Chards. Oh well, Ceritas releases tomorrow.
Going all in for Ceritas offer tomorrow. Picked up 5 btls of Litt PN
My CC should be burned after shopping tomorrow. My wife is going to kill me!!!
wow, 2012 pinot. Granted they’re the appellation wines, but still.
If I had known I’d see the 2002 Thieriot PN mag that I grabbed a drink from at WoW on sale for $375 10 days later, I’d have snuck the rest of the bottle home with me…
I bought some of the Anderson and Sonoma Coast. Pricey, but always very good CA appellation Pinot.
I’m an AV whore for sure.
I just picked up a couple of bottles. This will be my first. Going biggie size on Ceritas tomorrow morning.