Below, two notes on wines which I picked up for casual drinking during a couple of weeks based near Limoux earlier this year. The first is a modern interpretation of a very traditional style, this being sparkling wine (which was produced in Limoux long before the Champenois followed suit, the accepted kick-off date here being 1531) made from the region’s indigenous variety Mauzac. By ‘modern interpretation’ the cynic might suspect I mean a modish bottle with minimalist labelling without necessarily a wine of great character within, and they would be right, but it was certainly drinkable if nothing else.
The second wine is not so much a modern interpretation, more a modern whitewash. Limoux has long been considered white wine territory, whether sparkling or still, the principle varieties being the aforementioned Mauzac, Chenin and Chardonnay. There has also been a long tradition of red wine in the region though, typically using local varieties such as Terret Noir and Carignan, to name just two, although these wines were never covered by the Limoux appellation. In 2004 this failure to allow for red wines was rectified, but instead of the usual INAO preponderance for the ‘improving varieties’ - Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre - which tend to dominate appellation amendments in the Languedoc the star-billing for Limoux was reserved for Merlot. The reasoning behind this curious decision is not difficult to uncover, however, if we know some of Limoux’s recent history.
The die for the updated Limoux appellation was cast in 1998 when Domaine de Lambert, a Limoux estate which dates back to at least the 17th century, was acquired by the Mouton branch of the Rothschild family. The property needed extensive restoration though, and it would be years before the vineyards - which were almost completely replanted - would be yielding fruit of the quality and quantity required. In order to get some wine onto the market straight away the Rothschilds entered into a joint venture with the Sieur d’Arques co-operative, taking fruit provided by its members which was then vinified and marketed by the Mouton team under the new Baron 'Arques label. I remember tasting the 1999 (the second vintage) in 2002; I was underwhelmed and at £20 I thought it was over-priced. This joint venture came to an end in 2003 when the Rothschilds’ own vineyards came on line, but along the way their investment in the derelict Lambert property and the Sieur d’Arques co-operative and the associated boost for the image of Limoux as a whole brought them tangible rewards; just one year later the appellation was amended to include red wines as described above. The grape varieties permitted in the appellation, by an amazing coincidence, just happened to match the make-up of the Baron 'Arques vineyard and wine, with a stipulated minimum 50% for Merlot, the other permitted varieties including Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc (and other more typical Languedoc varieties); the Rothschilds were no longer producing Vin de Pays de la Haute Vallée de l’Aude as the 1998-2002 vintages had been, their wine was now AC Limoux. And the door was open for anyone else with the right vines - not least the Sieur d’Arques co-operative - to also get in on the act.
Sieur d’Arques Blanquette de Limoux Aimery La Bulle de Limoux Brut Méthode Traditionelle NV: The Blanquette appellation is older than that for Crémant, and as such it focuses on the more traditional Limoux grape, Mauzac. Under appellation regulations this variety must account for at least 90% of the blend, the remainder all Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc. This wine, from this well-known Limoux co-operative, has a pale lemon-gold hue. The nose has a very clean style, with a paper-like quality. The palate is fresh, crisp and of moderate weight. There is an appealing balance and a fresh, sappy, slightly sour presence of greengage fruit. It is a crisp and decent drink, but I honestly expected more. 15.5/20
Sieur d’Arques Limoux Terroir de Vigne et de Truffe 2008: The Limoux terroir favours two local specialties these being the vine and the truffle and this wine, a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah according to the Sieur d’Arques blurb, apparently reflects this. In the glass, it still has a youthful blue-purple hue. The nose is soft, fruit-rich, with plump blackberry and blueberry fruit, layered with some liquorice, from the oak no doubt. A similarly creamy and rich texture on the palate, but structured, with some grip and tannin behind it, and good acidity. Rather straightforward and commercial in terms of fruit and structure, not complex, but nicely composed. There’s even a little white chocolate sweetness. The latter part of bottle really tightened up though, and with time I became more enamoured with the wine. I suspect this wine would do well in the cellar, short term at least. 16+/20