In our market, red Burgundy seems to break down as approximately the following:
$0-$75: village wines & generic bourgogne
$75-$150: premier crus
$150+: grand crus
Recently I’ve been trying to find something nice in the sub-$75 range, but I haven’t been having any luck.
For instance, this weekend, I had a name-brand village wine, from the most recent vintage-of-the-century, and managed to squeeze out of it the following mental tasting note:
But I thought maybe I’d check at Cellar Tracker, just to make sure that this wasn’t an off-bottle, and, while most of the poor saps over there are simply clueless, there was one lone note of discord, way down at the very bottom of the page, which just nailed this wine:
By the way, this wine ranges from $49.00 in St Helena to $64.95 in Manhattan, which is a price point that ought to produce something at least quaffable [and certainly not so offensive as to ruin your dinner].
The debacle with this wine mimicked another recent experience, from a few weeks earlier, involving a name-brand village wine, with outstanding points from respected critics, which retails nationally for $58.00 to $79.99, but which proved to be a plodding, awkward, harsh, bitter mess that stubbornly refused to show any charm whatsoever despite aggressive attempts at oxygenating it.
So is anyone still making light, delicate, elegant, complex, aromatic red Burgundy for less than $75?
Or is searching for such a thing simply a fool’s errand?