Let's Talk Volnay.....Tell Me About Lafarge, Plz

Looks like everyone came out for a spin in the thread, which I appreciate. Funny, one of you mentioned Clavelier, of which I had a 99 Orveau last month that was super. I’ve since bought some 2008s. Same with Rion. The Lafarge seemed to speak to me and so given some of the comments above, I’ll take a leap for a few of the 2007s and report back. I also may try the Pommard Pezzeroles, as well. FWIW, I have been buying the D’Angerville and also have a bit of Montille on the way. Just something about that Lafrage from Saturday that really left an impression on me. WIne should do that to us.

I hear you Frank and that’s why Lafarge is the number one producer in my cellar.

To me they are the essence of Volnay and yes, the wines need time to really shine - not as much time as Keith says though.

Glad to read about your Lafarge epiphany!

Interesting discussion. My one LaFarge experience left me feeling underwhelmed:

  • 1999 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru (5/5/2011)
    Popped and tasted, quite tight; decanted for 3 hours. Medium-plus garnet hue, quite dark for Burgundy. Aromas of dark fruits, earth, mushrooms, root vegetables and subtle hints of incense and spice. Medium-plus body, again atypically “big” for a Burgundy. On the palate, the flavors veer more towards the darker spectrum of fruit flavors, which show as slightly candied, and are paired with earthy notes as suggested by the nose. Medium acidity. Chalky, yet “chunky” tannins on the moderate close. Quite closed at present, this wine needs more time in bottle to shed some of the tannins.

Quick commentary: Saved half of the bottle for the next day, when re-tasted it barely budged. I would surmise it’s either completely closed at present or that this particular bottle was TCA contaminated but well below my threshold of olfactory detection as there were none of the telltale aromas to indicate it was corked. However, my experience with Burgundy is rather limited, so take these comments with a grain of salt.

Wishing to expand my experience with Burgundy, I had purchased this bottle on recommendation and with knowledge that 1999 was generally a good to great vintage. So yeah, although nowhere near crap and actually quite drinkable, it was basically a disappointment and I’ve been quite a bit more impressed by what would be considered “lesser” bottles from Beaune. As the TN indicates, at the time I had even considered that this bottle may have even been TCA-contaminated but below my perceptible threshold (no wet cardboard/basement that I could discern).

Burgheads - did I simply pop the cork on this one way too young? Is the 1er bottling simply underwhelming to begin with in this vintage or just in general? Any additional perspective appreciated, TIA.

Yes. The d’Angervilles are also quite firm and unyielding from 99 . I had the Champans and the Taillepieds recently. Both were better than ok but nothing like they will be. I would have thought they would have started to drink. Just need more time. FWIW. If you want a 99 that is starting to really show, try the Lafon Santenots.

Don, thx for the info and rec.

Those few 1999 Burgundies I’ve tried in recent years have been pretty shut down. Given Lafarge’s typical evolution I would not be surprised for that to be doubly true for them.

I have to say I’m a little confused by this note. You mention six different components of the aroma as well as big candied fruit, but then call the wine closed. If you’re able to pick out six different things going on in the aroma, that sounds to me like the very opposite of closed. That’s wide open. So what about it made you call it closed? Just because it was tannic?

It was closed on the palate, the nose was much more forgiving and I could have been more specific. My apologies for confusing you!

Keith, the Lafarge family purchased the Clos du Chateaus des Ducs in 1900. I think that constitutes a long enough record to determine the nature of the wines’ evolution.

But it was not bottled as such until more recently.

Keith - -Clos du Château des Ducs began being bottled as such in the mid-1980s, so there’s plenty of time to compare its evolution with that of Lafarge’s Clos des Chênes (which, as I’ve mentioned before, is really a Taillepieds in terms of its subsoil). I have a fair amount of experience with both wines and it’s quite clear to me that the Clos du Château des Ducs matures significantly earlier than the Clos des Chênes.

yeah, one takes forever and the other takes forever and a day!

That’s pretty much my impression, too.

When will the shock and awe aspect of Frankie drinking Burgundy wear off for me?

Yeah, the other day I was thinking of opening the 99 Lafarge village Volnay and decided to leave it in the cellar. Maybe one day soon, though.

Same here Claude and I totally concur. And what do Keith and Maureen know anyway? :wink:

And all kidding aside, when you taste the two from barrel, there is a clear distinction.

The Ducs to me is always so much prettier and harmonious whereas the Chenes much more broad shouldered and masssive.

I find each to be quite different - try the 98s side by side now and I think you will see what I mean.