Huge thanks to Thomas for organising this, to everyone for their generosity (most especially Ian!) and to Jancis for her incredible knowledge and delightful company. Some brief notes from a dinner a few weeks ago.
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1998 Ruinart Champagne “R” de Ruinart Brut - France, Champagne, Montagne de Reims, Champagne (10/29/2013)
Served from magnum. Apparently only available in France at various restaurants. It seemed to have a fair amount of PN in the blend. lovely, fresh nose with some toasted bread. Quite a heavy dosage? Developed a nice toffee note with air. Overall, very nice.
First flight served blind with master stock poached quail with chargrilled broccoli, sweetcorn purée and roasted hazelnuts. -
1997 Domaine Leroy Volnay 1er Cru Santenots-Du-Milieu - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru (10/29/2013)
Served blind. Notes of band aid/VA dominate on the nose. Deep, red fruited, quite sweet palate. Nose develops some herbal elements. Still quite structured with a slightly dry finish. I guessed cdbeaune side based on the red fruit profile but went for the Leroy slb narbantons rather than the volnay SdM. -
1997 Domaine Leroy Clos de la Roche - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru (10/29/2013)
Served blind. Showed much older than the 97 volnay santenots du milieu served alongside it although with a lovely dark colour in the glass. Gorgeous, beautifully mature, supple palate. Darker red fruit. Sightly funky, forest floor nose. Hints of brett and herbal elements. Lots of meat stock! I was guessing an 89 grand cru. Everyone was surprised when this was revealed.
Palate cleansing blind white served with Cornish monkfish with roast baby gem, squash panzerotti, romesco, marjoram and pancetta beurre noisette -
1996 Maison Leroy Bourgogne Blanc - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc (10/29/2013)
Served blind. Light gold colour. Oyster shell nose, very reminiscent of a chablis. Quite mute palate and not showing much depth so everyone was stumped given the usual power of the leroy corton charlie (my guess) or d’auvenay whites. Incredibly young showing.
2nd red flight served with roast grouse with game chips, bread sauce, pate and damsons. -
1988 Domaine Leroy Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Boudots - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru (10/29/2013)
I last tasted this back in 2009 when it was stunning. Again, incredibly rich palate. Lovely sweetness that someone correctly compared to barley sugar. Dark red fruit. Very good indeed. -
1989 Maison Leroy Volnay 1er Cru Santenots - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru (10/29/2013)
Lovely, red fruited palate and nose. Supple on the attack but tart, precise finish. Slightly medicinal. -
1997 Domaine Leroy Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru (10/29/2013)
Last tasted in 2009 when it started off a bit awkwardly but soon the storm gathered! This time, masses of meat stock, nicely balanced but doesn’t follow through with much depth on the palate for me. Others disagreed.
3rd red flight including the start of the CdVougeot vertical. -
1990 Domaine Leroy Vosne-Romanée Les Genaivrières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée (10/29/2013)
Red fruited, lovely hint of VA. Still quite dry on the finish despite a lovely, sweet palate. -
1995 Domaine Leroy Clos Vougeot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru (10/29/2013)
Noticeable difference in palate weight in my view between the Leroy GCs and the villages/1ers served tonight. This had more weight and depth and was just plain lovely! -
2001 Domaine Leroy Clos Vougeot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru (10/29/2013)
Obviously young and very “2001” in its precision, but still offering a gorgeously supple palate. Dark fruited, good depth, quite sensual already but needs time. Will save my last bottle for another decade at least.
Some more mature CdVougeots to finish with a selection of cheese. -
1988 Domaine Leroy Clos Vougeot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru (10/29/2013)
Mature. Gorgeous. Sweet. Red fruited. Utterly delicious. -
1989 Domaine Leroy Clos Vougeot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru (10/29/2013)
Really bright red fruit. Very persistent and energetic. Superb.
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