We attended a Leoville and Langoa Barton Masterclass yesterday in London organised by Decanter and hosted by Lilian Barton-Sartorius, who is now the estate manager and owner, and Anthony Barton’s daughter.
I was most impressed by Lilian - she is savvy and articulate - also witty and not as long winded as some other hosts of similar events in the past. Listening to her and tasting the wines, I was reassured that the estate is in safe hands.
While not eschewing modern techniques she is sticking resolutely to the estate’s traditionalist ethos. There is no danger of Lilian taking a walk on to the dark side and cutting corners and fashioning superficially attractive young wines.
The hallmarks of these wines are harmony and balance. There is not nothing forced or contrived. There are no rough edges.
Chateau Mausevin Barton 2012
A recent new acquisition for the Bartons. It is 48% merlot, 35% cab-sav. A clean wine, quite closed and a tad astringent. But well made. 85
Langoa 2010
Grown under perfect conditions. This was initially closed down and was a dark crimson with a muted nose. Then it began to open up and was magnificent. Some peppery and spice notes, cool fruits, with minerals and graphite and hints of tobacco. Glorious texture and very fine. 94
Leoville 2008
A shy nose with mineral notes. Subdued on the palate. Fresh, lifted, balanced and harmonious, with hints of iodine and iron ore. Beautifully made, svelte and seamless with no rough edges. Will start to drink well in 4-5 years. 93
Leoville 2006
A larger framed wine than the 2008 with bigger tannins. As a result it needs protracted cellaring. It has graphite and restrained fruit, with a lovely mouthfeel. Silky, balanced and harmonious. 92
Langoa 2005
Still young but more expressive with more prominent and overt ripe and sweeter fruit. Even a tad over ripe perhaps? Noticeable denser on the mid-palate but nothing forced. Doesn’t quite match the seamless elegance of the 04, 06 and 08 Leovilles. 90
Leoville 2004
This is where the 2008 will be in four to five years from now. Cool dark fruits, soy, spice box, graphite and minerals, it is exquisitely balanced, refined and elegant as it glides over the palate. Perfectly poised and harmonious. 94
Leoville 2003
Much different to the other wines, expressive and open for business. Beefy notes with soy, dark fruits, plums and a tad pruney. This is a good effort in the context of a very hot vintage and is quite scrumptious. But I suspect it would become tiring after a couple of glasses and it lacks the elegance and balance of the other wines here. It would go well with Chinese food according to Lilian. 90
Langoa 2000
A super wine which is just starting to strut its stuff. Dark fruits, beef, tobacco and mineral notes, big structure with a dense mid-palate, but still harmonious and balanced, with a long refined finish. This is noticeably better than the 2005. Still only 12.5% ABV. 92
Lilian said the 2000 Leoville is still shut down hard, which is why she didn’t bring it.
Leoville 1999
Classically styled and still quite shy, it would have been difficult in its youth. But it is now coming out of its shell, and is a beautifully refined wine, with leather and spice box. It is still quite austere, but oh so elegant, poised, harmonious and fresh. Typical Englishman’s claret? It would be glorious with roast lamb. 92
Leoville 1996
A much bigger framed wine, more evolved, expressive and rumbustious with plenty of moving parts, red and black fruit, spice box, cedar, tobacco and minerals. Dense and powerful it is in the early stages of what is surely a long drinking window. Possibly lacks the exquisite elegance of some of the younger wines but fabulous stuff all the same. 94
I am very happy to own several cases of Leoville: the 2010, which in my opinion is the best yet, the 2008, 2002, 2001, 1996 x 2 and 1995. The one I would consider buying now would be the 2004.