This has been really interesting to read as a consumer who’s newer to the wine world. Growing up, I’d often hear about the Napa of ‘old’ from my dad, how you used to be able to go to a free wine tasting and chat it up with the winemaker. Before I started really digging into wine, I had heard about Martha’s Vineyard and Montelena and how certain wineries / vineyards had a bit more history and ‘status.’
I remember going wine tasting for the first time with my fiancee in Napa and starting at Corison. Though it had fewer frills than some of the later places I visited on the trip (Heitz included), I remember seeing Cathy drive by on a cart just as we were coming out of the barrel room and we got to speak to her for a bit. What the winery lacked in ‘exclusivity,’ was more than made up for by the experience, that conversation, and the quality of the wines. It ended up being our favorite of the entire trip for that reason and we’re planning to open her wines at our wedding next year.
More recently, I went to Antica Terra last year and had an incredible experience. While not cheap, the tasting came with amazing food (from a James-Beard nominated-chef), wine, and even the ability to try pours of Burgundy and Bordeaux that I thought I’d never try in my lifetime. That same trip, I went to Kelley Fox which was a polar opposite experience and was incredible in its own way, as well.
Don’t get me wrong - I recognize it’s fun to feel ‘exclusive’ and to try amazing wines, but the frills sometimes truly are not needed. What made my now-favorite wineries win in the end were that they weren’t treating me like a walking wallet. I was someone who was trying to learn more about the history, the wine, and at the end of the day, just wanted amazing wine to drink at home. I didn’t want to have to feel like I was at a timeshare seminar with pricing explained in depth (and pamphlets shoved in my face) before I even sat down to try the wines.
As a consumer / ‘sucker’, everything in Napa feels like it’s $250 or more - the bottles AND the tastings. I’m getting bombarded with new projects and new releases and have to choose now between Heitz and Trailside and Realm and Stony Hill and and Dominus and and and… and I’m tired. That pricing is firmly in ‘special occasion’ territory to me. Some places make you buy bottles just for the privilege to visit a place. And that’s just the bottles themselves (and at that price range I’m also looking at 2nd growth Bordeaux). With the tastings, why should I go spend $300 pp on a tasting when I can:
- spend $45 somewhere else and have an amazing time nerding out or
- spend $200 and have food made by a James Beard-nominated chef plus opportunities to try grand Cru Burgundy or
- spend $75 and bump into Cathy Corison
I get that some of these places are storied and have incredible histories - I do. But at the end of the day, I only have a finite amount of money and I have yet to understand why I need to spend $150+ on a tasting that feels so… impersonal? Or if you are going to be expensive- missing the frills (or food in some cases) that justify the cost (both of the wines and the tasting) and make the experience extra special. If someone opened it at a dinner or I had the ability to try it on a menu or tasting machine, then yeah I could be talked into it. But otherwise, I’m good. Everything seems to be marketing itself as ‘luxury’ now without being able to properly justify why.