L'Acajou Memorial Dinner - Burgundy, Loire, Champagne

L’Acajou closed 10 years ago so a few people gathered at a Mayson Kayser to commemorate what was once a favorite restaurant for offlines.

2011 Bereche Rive Gauche
Lovely Champagne. Not quite up to the Beaux Regards in this vintage, just a trifle light and a hint of harshness. Or am I being influenced by the vintage reports? Trademark Bereche perfect soft mousse.

2013 Pascal Cotat Chavignol Rose
Anyone know why this didn’t get the Sancerre designation?
Surprising note of celery on first pour this is thankfully submerged into a much more complex and delicious wine with air

1996 Boyer-Martenot Meursault Charmes
Is it more heartbreaking to have yet another premoxed 1996 white Burgundy or to have a perfect one that shows you that all the initial raves for the vintage were justified? A little light on the attack it puts one more and more weight and complexity as we head into the very impressive finish. Still showing some of its oak but it’s mostly integrated. Great Meursault.

2002 Foreau Demi-Sec
not showing that much at first, opens with a lot of air but still grumpy. Hold.

2010 Baudry Chinon Grezaux
I really didn’t buy enough of this.

2005 Meo Camuzet Hospices de Beaune Corton
Not bad for a young oaky ripe Burgundy. Maybe it will become more impressive with age but I’ve never been a Meo fan.

1988 Roty Fontenys
Intense beautiful wine. Showed much younger than the Geantet Ponsiot despite a lengthy decant.

1996 Geantet Pansiot Charmes Chambertin
my WOTN. Beautiful nose, great complex mature palate. It took a long time for the 1996s to start coming around but if this wine is at all representative they have arrived.

No, you didn’t!


Killer stuff.

Not trying to defend meo but that is a HdB wine not a meo wine.

And that charmes chambertin was oaky as hell in its youth.

I had a bottle of the Boyer Martenot Meursault Perrieres a few weeks ago. I had no expectations but it showed great.

The 1996 Charmes from Geantet has showed lovely all along. Good to hear it is still going strong.


I’m sure the Roty was oaky when young as well.

Any idea of how to tell who did the elevage on the HdB wine?

I think the point is AFAIK all Hospices wines are sold in new oak. A few buyers might transfer out upon purchase, but you’re pretty much guaranteed to have an oak signature on a HdB wine at least in youth

Was it this wine, Jay?

2005 Hospices de Beaune Corton-Cuvée Docteur Peste Méo-Camuzet

In any event, the barrel(s) were purchased at the Hospice auction and elevage by Meo I believe.

That’s the one. Thanks!