La Mission Haut Brion 1998

I have always had a thing about La Mission; and the 1955 is perhaps the finest Bordeaux I have ever tasted. It’s always been at the same level for me as Haut Brion, just a different telling of the story. Haut Brion’s elegance can sometimes get lost, La Mission is more chunky, occasionally to the point of rusticity, but at their best, it is a superb wine. It’s definitely (relatively) underpriced; as myopic merchants crowned Haut Brion and ignored la Mission in 1855. The 1998 is a real success in Graves, and tasting the wine in barrel, I knew the La Mission was pretty special then. Bought a case, and have been tasting every so often, to see if the wine is living up to my initial note. The truth was, I couldn’t tell. I have opened three bottles, and tasted a few elsewhere, the last time a year and a half ago at Commanderie event. So far, all I have had was a pretty surly adolescence, with perhaps signs of softening at the end of the evening. There are several cases for sale at auction last night, so figured I should open one up, and see if I wanted more.


I decanted early around noon. Three hours in a wide bottomed decanter, it was just beginning to open, and five hours in, I had the first pour. Still a little backward, but showing some gorgeous Graves aromatics. Within an hour, this was all brick dust, leather and tobacco. The structure which had held everything in check was softening, and the aromatics were exploding out of the glass. This was extraordinary now, and the wine just seemed to layer itself in waves of aromatics, not just the tell tale Graves, but fruit and flowers. The balance was exquisite, the finish long, and easy. Definitely on the same level as 1990, and perhaps close to the 1989. Worth buying another case.

Thank You for nice notes.
I got some 98, and wondered when to open the first.
Had the 94 some ten years ago, twice, with same tannic black ink notes, and was scared a bit. Many more years for the 94 was needed. Maybe now also ?

Btw. La Chapelle Mission Haut-Brion 2000, is a real treat right now. I remember paying sub $30 en primeur, back then. I also have Bahans HB 2000, but it’s not comparable to the juicy La Chapelle MHB.

I agree, that LMHB could sit in easy with the 1’er crus.

Kind regards, Soren.

Mark, thanks for the note. I am building a 1998/2000 Graves tasting for Commanderie and was wondering whether to include LMHB or not? By your note my conclusion is to include it but to give it plenty of air. Do you think that applies to other 1998 Graves as well?

La Mish…my favorite second growth…deserving of first growth status??

Carlos,

The only time I have had other 1998 Graves was at the Commanderie dinner. The LMHB was the most backward and Haut Brion was more approachable but still not ready.

I can’t remember Haut Bailly from that tasting, but I have had it subsequently and it is more ready, but not particularly good. The Pape Clement was shocking good and showed a good deal of terroir; in fact so good I bought a few bottles. Less a fan of the current vintages, but this was a nice surprise

They’ve been making a ton of changes at Clarence Dillon.

For instance, Laville Haut-Brion is now called La Mission Blanc.

http://www.mission-haut-brion.com/mobile/etiquette.php?field-choix=3