Il Soave Preview 2013

WINE TALK
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Here I got some impression from this years Il Soave Classico Preview.

For photos and more info about the tasting and another tasting of aged Soaves click here: Wine-Zeit: Discovery of Soave Part 1: Look Forth and Back - Il Soave Preview 2013
Il Soave Preview 2013

The Il Soave Preview 2013 tasting was held at the beautiful Coffele Estate in Castelcerino. For the sake of conciseness I’d like to limit myself to my two favorites from each valley resp. sub-region in Soave. All presented wines were Soave Classico DOC entry level wines from the vintage 2013 with retail prices below or just around 10 Euros.

In the first months of the 2013 vintage the vines were effected by relatively cold temperatures (in late May highs of 9° C) and above average rainfalls. The rest of the growing season was mostly stable and the overall output in quality and quantity was regular. Apparently the 2013 Soaves Classicos tend to have slightly leaner body-structure, a bit less ripeness, more acid and sharper crispness than comparable wines from average vintages.

For the infrequent reader of my posts I would like to explain my admittedly rather questionable rating system. All following wines scored a so la-la *** to decent **** rating. On a common 100 points scale this could be translated to a score ranging from 84 to 87 points. Enough of the technical blather! Now it is time for some Soave …

Valle di Illasi

Marco Mosconi Soave Corte Paradiso 2013, Soave DOC

The Corte Paradiso is a 100 % Garganega from mostly calcareous and a bit sandy soils which was fermented and aged in stainless. Its colour showed downright bright yellow-green’ish reflexes. This very visual fact has been shared by quite a lot of the tasted Soave Classicos. The nose appeared relatively spicy, rather austere and not that fruitful. On the palate there were plenty of grassy-herb’ish flavours and quite a lot green fruit. Disciplined aromas of green apples, green lemons and most definitely green bananas played a major part besides a substantial tart herbal touch. The acid seemed to provide quite a lot of vitality. Overall a pretty serious, light-bodied and refreshing Soave Classico. For me something in between decent **** and so la-la ***.

Coffele Soave Classico 2013, Soave DOC

The Coffele Soave Classico is another 100 % Garganega from stainless. The grapes for this entry level wine come from mostly basaltic soils in Castelcerino. Its colour was even brighter than most other tasted wines. The nose was far from swarm’y or amenable. I got shy fragrances of anise, fennel, green apples and some stern’y blossoms. The tasted seemed mostly reserved. There were shy flavours of mildly candid lemons, almonds and distinct flinty characteristics as well as a few indications of salt. Again a serious, rather complex (or a “simple” Classico wine) and a bit more voluminous Soave Classico with decent **** qualities.

Valle Tramigna

Balestri Valda Soave Classico 2013, Soave DOC

The Balestri Valda Soave Classico is also a 100 % Garganega. This one is solely from Guyot cultivations in Monte Carniga, Sengialta and Campagnola. The soils types range from chalk, clay and all the way to basalt. Fermentation and maturation happened in stainless steel. Its colour was really pale and overall very light. The nose showed fragrances of hay-flowers, candied lemons, traces of elderberry and ripe green apples. A rather perfumed wine with ripe attributes. The taste was dominated by mild honey, aromas of dried fruits and showed minor resemblances of Panettone. Its freshness and finish was quite fine. The Balestri Valda was far more fruitful, less mineral driven and easy to access. For me something in between decent **** and so la-la ***.

Monte Tondo Soave Classico 2013, Soave DOC

The grapes for the Monte Tondo Soave Classico are originated in calcareous areas of Monte Tondo area. Once again a 100% stainless Garganega. Its nose showes distinct fragrances of apple seeds, green apples, some moist cellulose, plenty of grass, a few almonds and some mild spiciness. On the palate there were rather bold aromas of gooseberries, green apples, some pickles and a few resinous flavours. For an entry level wine it was able to show quite a lot of substance and power. Right now it appears a bit out of balance and almost a bit too chubby. I am quite certain though: there is potential for more evo ahead. Right now more of a so la-la *** wine.

Valle d’Alpone

Casa Rotto Vigne di Fittà 2013, Soave DOC

The Casa Rotto Vigne di Fittà is a 100% Garganega wine from vulcanic soils in Fittà area. The fermentation of the skinless grapes took place in stainless steel vats. The colour of the wine wasn’t far away from white. The nose seemed restrained, delicate, rather herbal, a bit flowery, slightly smokey and relatively herbaceous. To me a far different and more earnest nose. The taste was as restrained as the nose might have predicted it. It was pretty dense for a Soave Classico, slightly nutty, gently piquant and overall pretty mellow. There weren’t too many expressive fruit flavours. Perhaps a few bananas and trances of elderberry. The acid seemed quite vivid and refreshing. This Soave Classico showed more seriousness and deeper qualities. I enjoyed it. For sure: decent ****.

I Stefanini Il Selese 2013, Soave DOC

The Il Selese Soave Classico is a blend of 90% Garganega and 10% Chardonnay. The vines were cultivated in guyot system on basalt soil. Fermentation and aging took place in 100% stainless. The bouquet was elegantly structured, filigree, showed very attractive scents of flowers, almonds, hawthorn, white peaches and some vivid freshness. The taste showed strength without being beefy or too bold. The aromas were dominated by elderberries, ripe green apples, mild white peach and an very well integrated elegant tartness. Overall very well balanced Soave Classico of decent **** quality.

Roncà

Corte Moschina Evaos 2013, Soave DOC

The Evaos is a 100% Garganega which was grown on volcanic soils in Collinare di Roncà. The 25 day fermentation periode and 5 months aging took place in stainless steel tanks. Its nose showed fragrances of ripe gooseberries, green bananas and a whiff of cheeky spiciness. On the palate there was decent and refined strength, delicate saltiness, vivid freshness and expressive flavours of gooseberries, grass and very well balanced herbs. A certain resemblance to Sauvignon Blanc and its special crispness was pretty evident to me. A downright decent **** and perhaps not all too classic seeming Soave classico. By the way: the screw cap is a very good idea!

Marcato I Prandi 2013, Soave DOC

The I Prandi Soave is a blend of 90 % Garganega and 10 % Trebbiano di Soave. The vines were cultivated in Guyot style on volcanic and tuff soils. Maceration (for approx. 3 hours), fermentation and maturation took place in stainless steel. For a change, this Soave Classico showed a little bit denser colour. Its nose was dominated by fragrances of candied green lemons, white blossoms, mild smoke and hay. The character of the nose was far more resinous compared to the other tasted Soave Classicos. The taste show similar characteristics. It was well equipped with candied, very ripe and resinous flavours. Besides that a few appealing herbal aromas have done a good job as well. This ripe, lush and fruitful fellow was one of my favorites of the tasting. For me a decent **** Soave Classico. To a certain extent another not so classical Classico. Perhaps more of a lil’ Soave Superiore …

Other recommendable Soave Classicos 2013 were the elegant, floral and refreshing Corte Tamelini Soave, the sturdily vivid, slightly smoky and a bit honeysuckle’ish Gini Soave Classico, the bold, expressive, mineral-driven and pretty much dissimilar Inama Soave Classico, the blossomy and nose indulging El Vegro Soave Classico, the more body-conscious and Chardonnay softened (approx. 30 %) Guerrieri Rizzardi Costeggiola Soave Classico and of course the beautifully fruitful, surpisingly soft and overall nicely balanced Pieropan Soave Classico. All of them showed more or less decent **** qualities and distinct characteristics.

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And some more impressions from a couple of visits to wineries in Soave. Here you will find some more input and a few
photos;

Visco & Filippi Azienda Agricola, Castelcerino

Filippi’s first wine was his partly Pergola, partly Guyot cultivated 100% Garganega “Village” wine Castelcerino Soave Classico from 2013. Its nose convinced me with a beautiful whiff of hearty as well as smoky herbs and a very present fruitful supplement of tangerines and mildly resinous lemons. Its taste was really lively, showed plenty of vigorous (and suitable) acid, intoxicatingly gentle and spicy sternness in combination with very respectable lean seeming juicy quaffability. Strange, however very beneficial, combination! Absolutely a decent **** wine for shockingly little money. The Castelcerino 2012 showed (obviously) more ripeness and more pointed structure. Its saltiness was more evident. The rather unique smokey character, as well. The actual body was far more strengthened and, if I may say so, beefy. Probably as a result of the rather hot vintage. Again, absolutely a decent **** entry level wine with clear vintage distinction.

The 2011 Castelcerino Soave Classico appeared to be the most balanced one. There was delicate spiciness, very well aged resinous fruit flavours, fitting firness and a certain elegance to this wine which convinced me (close) to outermost. Even its finish showed more than just respectable qualities. A hint more of pressure to the palate and bit more substance and a very decent ***** wouldn’t have a problem at all. Whatever, today I choose not to be petty – very decent it was! The 2010 edition of the Castelcerino showed far more smokiness, pine resin and fruitful characteristics of cooler limefruit. The tart herbal flavours seemed a bit stronger and more “cold-hearted”. Overall a stronger tendency towards herbal aromas and leaner and cooler fruit flavours. Again a distinct vintage variation. Also absolutely decent****.

A pretty much different story was the fully Guyot cultivated Turbiana 2012. The Turbiana is a 100 % Trebbiano di Soave from Soave region, but not declared as Soave. The Trebbiano’s nose wasn’t as talkative as his fellows made of Garganega. It seemed a bit mute, perhaps slightly bright green spicy’ish and possibly a bit more soft than the Soave Classicos. On the palate there was quite a lot of creaminess, a little bit too much alcohol-driven, showed flavours of sweet almonds, some pastry and overall far more nutty than herbal’y tartness. For me a nicely rustic wine without an overdose of enthusiasm. Definitely a good so la-la *** Trebbiano.

The next wine out of the Filippi portfolio was the Vigne della Brà 2012 Cru from a single vineyard in Castelcerino. The Garganega vines for this wine were cultivated in Pergola style on basaltic and calcareous soils at an elevation of approx. 400 m. Their average age is about 60 years. The nose of this firmer wine showed deeper, more elaborate fragrances of resinous and oily fruit (especially tangerines). The herbal touch of the Brà was a little bit reserved. On the palate the Brà was downright more tight and firm, more viscous, more profoundly gripping and full of herbal aromas. The resinous flavours were present, but not as elaborate as the nose might have implied. At the moment there might have been a slight problem with the balance of this sturdy wine. The glycerin touch and the hint of linked sweetness were a little bit too much in the foreground. I am rather sure, this will settle! It is a young wine after all. Right now absolutely decent ****. In the future maybe even more!

Another wine I very much enjoyed was the Calprea Recioto di Soave from 2009. This very mildly sulfured sweet wine made from 100 % Garganega grapes showed bold and beautiful flavours of marzipan, dried fruits, raisin bread, rock candy and impressively gentle smoke. The - for Recioto - above average acid provided a certain amount of freshness and “leanness” which I liked. Even the alcohol seemed relatively well integrated. A really decent **** sweet wine for little money. A great finish for one of the best tastings during my stay in Soave.
Azienda Agricola Sandro de Bruno, Montecchia

The winery’s sparkling wine called Lessini is produced from 85% Durello and 15% Pinot Bianco. All grapes are grown in Pergola style on Monte Calvarina. The Lessini underwent a 36 months long bottle storage period before being disgorged. Its colour appeared rather pale and the mousse showed quite a lot of robust agility. The nose seemed a bit rustic and monotonous. There were nice features of very mild brioche, Christmas’y spices (especially a whiff of cinnamon) and predominately quite a lot of yellow fruits. On the palate the special character of this Durello based sparkling unfolded far better. The unique Christmas’y spices (rather sweet appearing) and flavours of very ripe undisclosed yellow fruits seemed a bit more intense and cunning. Even the flavours of pastry showed a bit more subtle qualities. The mousse was fine. Perhaps a bit rough. For me a pretty interesting and mostly pleasure providing and surely not so intellectually challenging so la-la *** fizz with distinct features.

The Soave Classico 2013 called Colli Scaligeri showed more refinement and class. The grapes for this 100% Garganega wine from lower slopes on Monte Calvarina were grown in Pergola style on basaltic soils. Its colour was as expected - rather pale, but showed a bit more “tint” than most of his comparable fellow Soave Classicos. The nose was dominated by lemon’y semi resinous fruit fragrances, slight impression of honey and gently breezy white flowers. There was quite a lot of balance to its nose. Its taste wasn’t as refined and gentle as the nose, like in not so few cases of Soave Classico wines, but the balance of the actual flavours was quite pleasing. For me something in between sola-la *** and almost decent ****. My favorite wine of the tasting was a 2007 Chardonnay plus some Pinot Gris from a magnum bottle. This one showed substance, nice civilized oak, no chubby characteristics, clear aromas, again good balance, hardly any aging and fine length. For astonishing little money a really decent **** easy going Chardonnay ++ from Sandro de Bruno’s first vintage.

Azienda Agricola Le Battistelle, Brognoligo

The first Soave Classico I’ve tasted was the 100% Garganega entry level Montesei 2013 from three different basaltic soils in south facing vineyards of Valle delle Rugate. It’s nose was very delicate, slightly flowery and rather shy. Its taste was driven by mild fruit flavours, tamed creaminess and plenty of vividness. For sure a simple, lean and refreshing wine without mentionable density or demand for a very reasonable price. For me still a so la-la*** Soave.

The next wine was Le Battistelle Soave Classico 2012. Another 100 % Garganega from very steep slopes (basaltic and tufaceous rocks) close to the summit of an extinguished volcano. The fermentation of this one took place in stainless steel tanks for about 20 days and was aged for six to eight months on lees. The nose of the Le Battistelle showed more expression from the herbal side, mild lemon scents and distinct flinty features. The taste showed far more substance and density than the Montesei. There were flavours of funky wild herbs, reserved mild lemon fruit, plenty of nice crispness and rather good length. Overall a more serious and more pleasing Soave. Again a very reasonable wine. Even with some potential for a certain amount of development. Something in between so la-la*** and decent . The 2011 Le Battistelle showed more developed characteristics. There were riper and sweeter fruit flavours and even more of its “mineral heritage”. Also so la-la to decent***.

Le Battistelle’s Cru wine Roccolo del Durlo 2012 from a single vineyard on Monte Carbonare between Brognoligo and the town of Soave showed the most promising qualities. Unlike the other Soaves this one underwent a 24 to 30 hours cold maceration on the skins after de-stalking. Right from the start it showed a lot of its half-baked youth and reserved strength. Its nose appeared really shy and withdrawn into pupation. On the palate there was more to find out (already). Flavours of resinous lemon fruit, mild eucalyptus, a bit of guava juice, typical spicy as well as tart herbs and a bit of cactus licking (without the spines, obviously). The body was well defined, however still pretty lean for a Cru Soave. I am sure there is some evo ahead. Right now a shy decent **** will do nicely. The Roccolo del Durlo 2011 showed where the evo journey might go to! The nose and taste showed a clear and gripping mineral imprint and far more expressive fruit flavours. Also a surly decent **** Soave Cru.

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Great notes. Thanks. Makes me want to run out and buy some for summer sipping.