My grandson was born in 2014. I am collecting an assorted case or two for him. His father, my son, is a white wine guy who never met a SQN White he couldn’t Bogart at the table and drink half of. I am looking at getting a bottle or two of white burgs to add to the collection, since who knows what the kid will like. Any suggestions about which producers will present the lowest premox risk assuming a holding period of at least 12 more years?
Jay, for reasonably priced wines I’d try to source a PYCM St. Aubin 1er that you can probably find for under $100. I don’t know if they’ll last…but that’s my thoughts on almost all White Burgs now. If you want to minimize the risk I’d say go towards a pricier wine like Raveneau ($300+/-) or for less $ risked I’d suggest Vincent Dauvissat 1er’s.
When the 2014 Domaine de la Bongran Viré-Clessé is released next year, buy that. Guaranteed to be a long ager, since Thevenet is probably the only entirely premox free producer in Burgundy. It will also be much less expensive than anything else suggested in this thread.
I’d stick with PYCM, Roulot or Raveneau (I assume Coche is out of the price range, but if not, that would be my top choice if you want to avoid premox at all costs). 14 should prove to be along lived vintage, as in general the wines are high acid, lean and racy with a lovely balance of extract and edginess. Not too ripe.
Now if you’re only buying one wine, the equation is tricky if you want to pick the one wine that’s guaranteed not to premox. My vote would go to:
PYCM Chassagne Les Caillerets. It’s one of his best wines, very old vines, more on the leaner acidic style even for PYCM. I paid $125ish for my stash back in 2016, and have not tried it yet. Professional Reviews below. Good luck.
By Stephen Tanzer
Vinous, The 2014 White Burgundies: What’s Not To Like? (Sep 2016) (9/1/2016)
(Pierre-yves Colin-morey Chassagne-montrachet Les Caillerets 1er Cru) Bright yellow. Aromas of crushed rock and cold steel dominate the nose. A pure mineral bath in the mouth, with penetrating acidity intensifying and lifting the pineapple and stone flavors. This very sharply chiseled, extremely young Caillerets finishes with a suggestion of chicken-soup reduction that reminded me of a Chablis from Vincent Dauvissat. Lay this one down. (Drink between 2022-2031) 93+ points
By Allen Meadows
Burghound, Jun-16, Issue #63
(Maison Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet “Les Caillerets” 1er Cru White) In contrast to the reduced noses of some of the prior wines this is super-fresh with its cool and emphatically citrus-inflected notes of various white orchard fruit and wet stone scents. There is equally good intensity and more citrus character on the slightly broader-scaled flavors that exude ample minerality on the racy finish. This is so citrusy that it may not appeal to everyone though I suspect that these characters will slowly diminish if not completely disappear with a few years of cellar time. (Drink starting 2021) 89-92 points
We had a 2012 Dauvissat Preuses last night that was absolutely stellar, and very, very young. Those are expensive, however. I believe Fevre is doing a good job fighting premox, and the use of Diam corks seems to have made a huge difference as well. Their 14s are outstanding, and quite a bit more affordable and available than Raveneau or Dauvissat. I personally have my doubts about PYCM and longevity, at least across the portfolio. His wines are all over the map in style, depending on vineyard. I would support Larry’s post above and go with the Caillerets if you go that way.
Don’t know if you want to spend $2000+ for a case of some of those mentioned? I would buy a case of the 2014 Caves Duplessis Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos for $60-70 per…SUPER wine, built to age, and I don’t believe Duplessis has any issues with premox.
duplesis definitely has issues with premox.
the only producer mentioned here i have any confidence in is raveneau. better to have fewer bottles, but great track record of long aging even at 1er cru level. not to mention, all the 14’s from raveneau are incredible.
I’d buy a couple/several of bottles each of Dauvissat 1er La Forest, Fevre Bougros GC Cote de Bouguerots & Pierre Boisson Auxey-Duresses 1er En Reugne
It’s not clear that GCs have an aging advantage over 1er crus anymore. GCs used to always have the better combination of Ripeness + Acidity/pH + Soil Character. Even if often times 1ers had the better acidity and, on the better ones, had the soil character, they’d lack the ripeness/density to age. Part of the criteria for being a GC was having a slope orientation that gave the best sun exposure because, in the 90s and prior, getting enough sun/warmth was a rare thing. That’s not true anymore.
Can’t go wrong with Alan’s Dauvissat Preuses suggestion. It’s a great wine…the Forest is equally ageable, excellent and doesn’t hurt as much to buy . Also, Jason Heller organized a Dauvissat La Forest vertical tasting a year ago, that included sending samples of selected vintages to a lab for chemistry numbers (link below). The tasting included a 1990, an esp ripe vintage (2005/2009 ripe?), which apparently showed well. Jason’s description puts the 90 in the middle group of the group ranking. Since the 90 was the similar approximate age as when you want to drink yours, and the 90 was significantly riper than 14, I’d guess the 14 should be brilliant at age 18. Besides, I like the Forest, so invite me please . Maybe Jason will chime in if he sees this post.