A fellow board member gave me this wine, the 2004 Joseph Roty “Bourgogne,” which I think he picked up for some insanely cheap price. Less than $10?? At any rate, I popped it open on Saturday afternoon. I will DEEPLY regret doing so because I have not had a single Red Burg in all of 2009. Not…one. I have had Pinot, but not Burgundy.
I had honestly forgotten what Burgundy was like. Seriously! I may have had close to 1,000 wines since my last Red Burg and I have become so accustomed to the smell of Cabernet and North Coast Pinot, the sensation of Red Burg was but a distant memory.
But once I smelled and had my first sip, it all came rushing back to me. It was like when you have a dream, and while you are dreaming you remember the dream. And when you wake up you say “Wow! That was some dream!” Then later in the day you are trying to remember the dream…and you have completely forgot it? And then maybe a month later you will see something or hear something or lay back on your bed in a certain way and “Bam! Oh yeahhhh! That’s what that dream was!”
It was like that.
Red fruits, a touch of earth. Medium-body. Nothing harsh or out of place. Just the opposite! It is hard to describe the fruit of this wine, or any Red Burg, because I try to use the same fruit descriptors (cherry, strawberry, etc) but they are NOT the same cherry and strawberry as in a Pinot. The fruit itself seems to occupy a different PLACE in the senses than Pinot. It is like it is within a hidden door that you can’t sense when you drink Pinot but when you drink a Red Burg, somehow you sense the fruit is there, in a different corner of the experience. I don’t know how else to describe it.
The wine itself was very yummy, but it was not great. It did not have the complexity of a serious Burg, nor quite the length. But it was big on charm and finesse, especially when I have been knee-deep in Cabernet this harvest.
What this bottle did was remind me of great Burgs I had tasted years ago. So this bottle did not just taste like THIS bottle, but it reminded me of the taste and aromas of excellent bottles of Red Burg I have not had in some time. It takes a special grape to make a wine you taste in the present remind you of wines tasted in the distant past OTHER than itself! It was Red Burgundy as a time machine.
So why will I regret this bottle? Because it was easy to “just say no to Burg.” And it was easy not to want to subscribe to Burghound. And it was easy to grab a Pinot off the shelf in any store here instead of having to search far and wide for a Red Burg. I had forgotten about how these tasted and my wallet (and sanity) was better off for it. But now I can’t make such rationalizations because I have a sense-memory for it again. And this time…I won’t forget.