Good memory! I still have the 2015 Bouchard Montrachet, and I almost opened it, but I was haunted by Andrew’s comment:
I really wanted to avoid a double disappointment, especially given the cost of these two bottles. Maybe one day I’ll get over the crushing disappointment of that Jadot and open the Bouchard.
The 15 Bouchard would’ve been much less likely
to be premox, though, mid 2000s Jadot is as much in the danger zone as you can get, along with H. boillot, Leflaive and Matrot.
I doubt they are going to get better at this point. Halves age much quicker, so the best you can hope for is to get lucky and get an extra fresh bottle. Especially if the bottles were acquired with unknown provenance.
The ones I’ve opened lately have not been as good in 375 as previous bottles. I opened a 375 in 2022 which seemed to be right in the zone but this year the 375s I’ve had have been underwhelming. Full bottles have still been good though, with absolutely no rush.
I’m starting to stock up 01 in magnum now as well as cases of full bottles, I have a lot of 375 but not sure how well they’ll go the distance although they are just starting to drink great now.
Fantastic notes and exercise, Noah, a true pleasure to read about it and congrats on executing. Yes, a (predictable?) shame about the Jadot and interesting experience with the Chalon—I tend to drink these on their own for just the reason you cited.
I’ve only had the 88 Yquem once from half, and that was over 7 years ago. But—in a crazy OL with 86, 88, 89, 97 and 11 D’Yquem and Climens comparisons in one meal, the 88 was the near-consensus winner:
1988 Chateau D’Yquem
Wow! such a different nose from the Climens—hits you with smoked maple syrup/fudge and a plantain and pie side. This, to taste, is awfully close to the 01’s perfection for me. Awfully close. Still needs 20 years, but vanilla, star fruit, maple fudge, kiwi and even a lick of aniseed, and it all lasts forever. On nose and mouth, simply a soul-drenching wine. My clear WOTN, WOTY so far and the group’s near-consensus#1*. 99+ I saved some off into a shot-bottle and will check on it in 2 days.*
It remained scrumplicious those 2 days later. Again, bien merci for all the notes and effort
For my Curnonsky lineup at the time, I was looking for what others’ experiences were and what their favorite pairings are. I had already shared my story with Noah_C, but it might also be helpful for others who want to try this specific lineup of fantastic wines.
I really enjoyed finding these wines together, reading and learning more about them. These wines are so characteristic and renowned for their region and the grapes that they are fantastic on their own, but even more so in this particular line-up.
My menu consisted of the following:
Coulee de Serrant (2003) - Rilette of cooked and smoked salmon, fennel, apple, and crème fraîche;
Chateau Grillet (2010) - Sweetbreads, cauliflower and almond purée, corn, and Marsala sauce;
Prieur, Montrachet (2017) - Ballotine of chicken, truffle, mushroom purée, and chicken jus;
Macle, Chateau Chalon (1998) - Oven-baked Mont d’Or cheese with raw vegetables (celery, radish, chicory, carrot);
The pairings are quite classic and fairly self-explanatory. The salmon with the Serrant really hit the spot for me. Let me know if you’d like the recipe.
For me, it was important that all the dishes could be prepared reasonably well in advance. This meant I wasn’t spending most of my time in the kitchen during dinner, but could spend time with my friends enjoying the wines.
Good luck with setting up your menu. Please let me know if my messages helps you and of course how your experience was.
Noah,
What a great line up, and I am glad everything showed so well except the Jadot. I loved the format, giving you plenty time to really see how the wine developed in the glass.
I am not so sure I agree with you about the cost of the Yquem. I think it’s one of the great bargains of the wine world; the quality is incredible especially if you figure in the yield and the amount of work required to make the wine, as compared to a first growth like Lafite.
It is a shame about the Montrachet. Montrachet can be really great. Unfortunately, at that time Jadot was a poster child for premox. More recently, Jadot has moved to DIAM and, in my experience, has gotten much better on premox issues.
If you ever again want to try Montrachet, I recommend your Bouchard. I have not had your vintage, but the ones I have had have been fabulous.
I have had good luck in the last year or so with 1988 Sauternes. Had 1988s from Rieussec Suduiraut and Guiraud last year (all from half bottles) and they were all excellent, with the Rieussec even better than that. Of course, when we get to older wines, there is a lot of variation due to different storage, and, with the Rieussec at least, the wine was bought young and spent its life in temperature controlled cellars.
Thanks Howard- looking forward to trying it, though no idea how long to hold it for. It’s bottled under DIAM, so I’m hopeful the wine is in good shape, but also am thinking that it might be slow to evolve. I’d hate to open it to find it super young, primary, and lacking the complexity that it will develop with age.
I visited Bouchard in 2007 (and a couple of other times) and they gave me a taste of the 2005 Montrachet (and barrel samples of both 2006 Chevalier Montrachets). Certainly, it was young, but it was still delicious. Nevertheless, I understand your trepedation.