A 1990 Billecart-Salmon Cuvée Nicolas last night was sensational, not with a lot of fizz but with great depth and complexity.
Most really good aged champagne does not present excessive oxidative notes. There are some wines that occasionally show a more oxidative style, like Bollinger RD, Krug, and some Selosse Substance. Good bottles with a decent percentage of pinot noir should present mushroom and coffee to go along with bready and fruit notes as they age. I think that sometimes surprises folks who are not used to those flavors in a “white” wine, and who do not tend to experience those flavors in even the same champagne when young. If your expectation is citrus and creme pat, and you’re getting walnuts, dried apple, coffee and black truffle, well, surprise!
This is the best and, in my opinion, one of the more accurate infographics about flavors and age, though I’d kick all the age thresholds back a few years plus.
Sharp apple cider or sherry notes are typically major red flags that you’ve got a poorly conditioned bottle.
With all of that said, and having had many older bottles of champagne from many houses, they really aren’t my preference with the exception of 1988, which I think is the best vintage of champagne I’ve ever had. Mostly, though, I prefer champagnes from much more recent vintages.
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If you enjoyed it, buy and horde the 2002.
The 02 was incredible, but I don’t think I’d be able to hold it… how long will it last?
At least 12 more years!
Noob question…
When you’re talking about letting Champagne breathe a bit after you open it up, don’t you risk the bubbles going away? Or is the solution to open the bottle and then put the champagne stopper on?
What temperature are you serving your old or young champagne-- is there a difference depending on whether it’s vintage vs NV? Personal preference?
Some people decant it, I never do since I like the fizz in champagne as I find that decanting does reduce some of the fizz. I usually just open it, pour a glass and keep the rest in the bottle. I’ve kept half drunk younger champagnes uncovered overnight in the fridge and the next evening they still had most, if not all, of their fizz. As for serving temp, I prefer almost all champagnes closer to cellar temp, but as you noted, it comes down to personal preference. It’s much easier, and faster, to have the entire bottle chilled and then letting the amount in the glass warm up to your preferred temperature, than trying to chill or warm up the entire bottle once you’ve started drinking.
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The key is that you ‘get’ what you like. Enjoy the benefits of preferring younger Champagne. You don’t have to cellar it for the long haul (inventory and total cost of ownership savings), you can purchase off the shelf for consumption, you don’t have to worry about provenance or price in trying to find older back vintages.
My wife prefers her Champagne younger. She doesn’t mind older Champagne, but really does not like those that develop a more oxidative, nutty, spicy style. Her preference with aged Champagne is more along the lines of toffee, cream, vanilla, mocha.
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i remember that once – for some unfathomable reason, perhaps attention paid to the evening’s companion –
the remains of a bottle of Krug Grande Cuvée sat open all night
with about 2 inches of wine left –
and them there two inches still had plenty bubbles in ’em, warm the next morning
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Yup!
I liken an older fine champagne to an older fine woman!
DANGER WILL ROBINSON, DANGER
I recommend against it. The chances of coming away unscathed are slim. 
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The fizz is definitely more resilient than most people realise. I’ve left open bottles (ie no closure at all) in the fridge overnight, though never on purpose. Always plenty of bubbles the next day. Heck for very young champagne I’ve found the texture is better the next day (granted, when I corked it back up) as the fizz settles down a bit.
Aging is an individual decision, but why bother with Champagne if the bubbles aren’t important?
Why drink an aged, flat/near flat Champagne instead of an aged white Burgundy?
The bubbles set Champagne apart, and have always seemed to be a big part of both the drinking enjoyment and the feeling provided to the moment. Leaving a bottle to age to the point of little to no bubbles just doesn’t seem right.
I am not talking you out of it Scott; I agree with the cellar for a year or two if you can wait, and don’t sweat it when you can’t!
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