How Long Lived Are Top Brunellos From Outstanding Vintages?

Never found these to be at peak, i.e. showing some secondary characteristics. Even with 15-20 yrs, again my sample size is too small, but would to learn more about the maturity profiles of these.

Perhaps Brunello as a region is relatively new with many different clones and regions each with different characteristics that we are only now beginning to learn.

Over the last 12 years I’ve gone thru 4 cases of Brunello primarily from 97, 99, 01, 04 and 10. I’m holding an equal amount for longer term aging. Producers are Fuligni, Il Poggione, Casanova di Neri, and Siri Pacenti among others. I believe a good Brunello needs at least 12 years to start showing much besides the youthful astringent tannins. Most should have no issues going 20 years and showing better than in their youth. My opinion of course.

I always lament the lack of Brunello discussion - so here we go …

Fully agree with Tim Heaton … (Tim - what happened to your blog? I really enjoyed it)

Some of them age very well indeed - certainly beyond the 20-30 year mark; have had 75s, 81s, 88s, 93s, 95s to name a few 20+ year vintages that have been outstanding. Many ‘99s and ‘01s have been very enjoyable recently as well.

‘97 is a tricky vintage and should be measured accordingly … some producers lost control of the heat.

I think they’re wonderful at the ~20ish year mark and develop significantly more complexity than they have at say the 10 year mark, though I enjoy them younger as well.

Michael, to your question - I have had several bottles of the 1999 Costanti and the 2001 Fuligni which have developed beautifully. No worries on holding recent vintages - I have been a buyer.

Coincidently I opened the 1999 La Fiorita normale last night. It was really lovely and right in the zone. 19 years and going strong.

Brodie

1975 Il Poggione normale was quite amazing a couple of years ago - definitely fully mature aromatically but incredibly powerful, tannic and acidic. Then again I’ve had many young Brunellos from lesser producers where it would have been very difficult to project in any way a similar life span but if you have 2001s or 2004s from good, traditional producers I would not hesitate to forget them in the cellar for a decade or two still. Of course it is surely again a question of what phase of maturity your palate prefers. Personally I believe that what is great about Brunello is its capability to age and you really cannot experience any of that during the first ten years of a wine’s life.

I´ve heard that Barolo is best after an hour on the radiator end with a spoonfull of sugar in… champagne.gif
The best Brunellli are great also after 25-45 years. 1975´s e.g. Poggione are extremely delicious now, as mentioned above

Some TNs

The 77 Biondi Santi Riserva was stunning

Yes, even 1977 (a difficult vintage in the rest of Europe) Brunelli are delicious. Also Montevertine

I would imagine those are way…way too young at this point. I’m still sitting on their 2001 Anatta because all reports are that it needs another decade+. It will be interesting to hear how your experience goes though.

2001 is tough. I agree with at least another decade

Certainly the best have a mammoth aging curve, but even the average modern day Brunello annata for me requires a minimum of a decade. I am very surprised anyone ever told you the opposite. Brunello does suffer from tremendous variability but the number I’ve tried that needed to be consumed that young is pretty low.

97 was a ripe year, so some will show the roast. I think it silly to say to drink up by the time these are 10 years of age, since they come to market with at least 4 already. Saying to drink them up within 6 years of them being purchased is the mark of a fool. I’d venture around 15 years after vintage and plus to start enjoying them.

My recent experience would bend my thinking to no touchee until 8 years minimum. I’ll add a sampling of notes from the last couple years, in part because I had taken note of my treatment of many of these:

January 2017:

2010 La Togata dei Togati Brunello

This took a little bit to unwind, about 2 hours, but was quite pretty when it did. Florals are added to a currant and leather showing on the nose. Palate has solid fruit and the tannins are already lovely and luminous here. Another very nice example of a vintage I love to pieces. This really came out to play the next day at brunch, but was perhaps done by the time the 3rd rolled around

2008 Lazzeretti Brunello

Opened this after picking it up on the recommendation of friend and Vintages consultant Michael. He wasn’t wrong about this one. On opening, cedar and sandalwood notes mix with dark, dark plum and berry fruit in bouquet. And there’s plenty of grip and almost flashy power on the tongue. It does settle in over the course of the night and the next day, but by the 3rd had picked up even more verve and power. Quite a showing.

2010 Argiano Brunello Riserva

This saw a decant for an entire day. The nose on opening was swoonful–full of gorgeous, full red fruit, touches of lilac and great array of baking spices. Later, darker fruit makes its mark along with some cured cedar and earth notes, a lot going on. This is just grand to taste—painfully young still but oh, what fantastic promise. I reiterate from my one taste at Benevenuto Brunello last spring that this may end up being the first red wine that reaches perfection for me. My next bottle is slated for WineFest V in 2020


February 2017

2010 San Polo Brunello di Montalcino

Needed the 3 hour decant, opens up with plenty of saddle leather, bits of coffee-mocha and black cherry. Delish–cured meat around cherry and spices.

August 2017

2010 Campogiovanno Brunello di Montalcino

I slow-oxed this for a full day and decanted it for about 1.5 hours. And it is singing a red fruit and cocoa song in the sniffer and on the tongue. That said, it checks in at 14.5% and is still a wild child—more so than any other 2010 I’ve yet had. I will keep my other bottle but leave it to sleep for some years. Also saved off some of this and will check on it tonight or tomorrow…


…the Brunello today is still very much on the showy, big and sweeter side

Oct 2017, included because it’s a note on Costanti

2012 Costanti Brunello di Montalcino

Wanted to try a 12, I picked this up to share. Likeable red fruit and shaves of sweetmeats. To taste, it is quite accessible and has some velvet to go with exuberant red fruit. But both Berto and I prefer the true classicism of the 2010s and I’m not sure how long-lived this wine will be. Still, quite enjoyable and flexible with food


Finishing with 2 notes on Valdicava, one from Oct 2017 and one from Feb 2018

2001 Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino

When Sherri (Shapiro) gave me some choices, I asked for some Italian. This was some bring. Pop and pour, fun little scent of walnut paste behind chickoree, currant and raspberry. This is splendid to taste. It just washes through your mouth and has a lovely Christmascake sidebar. Very friendly with my coq au vin as well. Just a study in harmony and effect. WOTN…

…the leftover 2001 Valdicava Brunello was even more memorable than the night before

‎1997 Valdicava Brunello

Really delish, has a lovely red fruit personality with plenty of freshness and life.

skal

Mike

I wonder what effect “the merlot years” had on the longevity of that range of vintages?

Joking aside, on average I give them ten years and plan to drink them within 20-25. There are exceptions, of course. Not long ago I had a wonderful 1979 Argiano Riserva. I operate under the general assumption of “the more traditional the producer, the longer they will go” – though I have no real basis for it.

I have also been impressed with the ability of non-brunello sangiovese to age. In the past year I have had an otherworldly 1994 Felsina “Fontalloro” (bad year? ha!) and an outstanding 1995 Felsina “Rancia” chianti. Both have years of gas in the tank IMHO.

I go both ways on this. Young Barolos are interesting in their own right, at about 7-9 years, then they seem to need 20-25 years to get interesting again.

You’re in for a treat.

I was about to post that it can be great young as well, witness a beautiful 1999 Ciacci I had this year. Then I realized that wine was almost 20 years old. I might say that Brunello is best enjoyed when you’re young enough to remember what year it is but I really enjoyed the Ciacci so maybe that isn’t a general rule either.

Anyway, producer does make a difference. I’m not sure one can generalize from Biondi-Santi and Soldera to the rest of Brunello. But there’s no doubt the former two will go the distance.

I bought quite a few '01s and '04s and have opened several over the last two to three years. Fuligni, Lisini, Costanti, Fiorita amongst them. All have looked vital and full of interest, with great pleasure to be had drinking them, yet no doubt that could happily take several more years in the cellar. I would guess that a 15-25 year window might be a fair one.

I agree with Mark. Most of them reach the maturity around 15, still showing generous fruit but also tertiary notes. If kept well, the 85 to 90 should also be drinking beautifully at the top. Just like Bordeaux or Rhone, they become burgundian as fruit fades. The super concentrated special cuvees like Valdicava Riserva Madonna del Piano should peak around 25-35.

I’m with the give them at least 10 years crowd.