As reported and discussed in this thread, Charles Rousseau, who was head of Domaine Armand Rousseau in Gevrey-Chambertin for over 50 years, died this week. Passing of Charles Rousseau - Domaine Armand Rousseau - WINE TALK - WineBerserkers
As homage to this generous, down to earth legend (whose estate, IMO, owes no apologies to any estate in Burgundy for quality and class, especially those actually farmed and produced by hands-on family members like the Rousseau family), my wife and I opened a 1983 Gevrey 1er Cru “Clos St. Jacques” last night with a wonderful slow-roasted pulled lamb shoulder. As mentioned in the linked thread, Charles had given us this bottle in 1996 from his personal cave, when he learned that 1983 was our marriage year. To mark the sad event of his passing this week and to toast him (and our 33rd wedding anniversary next weekend), we opened this wine.
I cleaned it with a brown coffee filter and aerated it in a decanter for 90 minutes and then put it back in the bottle for dinner. I could have aerated it a little longer, as it improved through dinner starting with the toast to Mr. Rousseau, and is still fine this morning.
The wine was very typical of 1983: masculine, deep reddish fruit concentration; cassis in its fruity and its herbal character, too…and “old style” in the very best sense of that term (1983 was a transitional year to the next, more hygienic and modern generation of winemakers). A really good one, and further confirmation to me that the Clos St. Jacques, while as good as 1er cru Gevrey can get, is not in the league of most of the Chambertins or , particularly , the Chambertin/CDB itself. (Always love the Mazy there!!)
Thanks for your generosity and thoughtfulness, Charles Rousseau, and especially for leaving a legacy of great wines made from great vineyards by the hands of the family members who actually own those vineyards. Glad to have had this lovely 1983 CSJ to have toasted you with. (We have many good wines in reserve, thanks to you.)
FWIW, we also had a killer 2002 Niellon Chassagne “Champs Gains”.deep deep flavors, subtle and Puligny-like and very long finish with a beguiling honeyed, stony peachy nose.