Definitely doable to see all 3 in 3 days. The last time I went we stayed at the Borgo San Felice (a Relais and Chateau south of Sienna) and did just that. That said, I’ve been to Montepulciano 2x and it’s not one of the most interesting places in Tuscany (IMHO of course)
Thanks. Recommendations on best towns to visit is very welcome. More generally, I’m torn between renting a car (and thus seeing more out of the way towns) and taking public transit to Siena, basing ourselves there, and hiring a driver just to take us to vineyards. It sounds like it might be a good idea to base ourselves in Siena, car or no.
Randall - if you end up going the driver route, I used this tour company once (in Rome) and they were awesome at finding the offbeat and truly Italian experiences: http://www.thisisitaly.net/. A friend of mine had Gabriele for a whole whole week and they are still fast friends. Downside is tours/cars in Italy aren’t cheap… for the most part I’ve just rented due to cost
Doable - though for me it would be way too much, but then I do hang around on the Slowtrav forum!
I’m glad you’ve taken the practical option of avoiding the 3rd of the big 3 tourist locations. Rural Tuscany whilst still touristy, avoids the worst excesses of the places on the ‘must see’ listings of the mass tourism approach.
September can be a great time to go, often settled and warm weather, but rarely blisteringly hot. Decent mushrooms start becoming available as well (along with chestnuts), so look out for these in restaurants / specialist food shops / markets in Tuscany.
I agree a single base works better, all that checking in and out wastes holiday time, but a nice drive there and back can feel more enjoyable. The other reason for this, is it allows you to change plans depending on how you feel. Imagine having to check in and out for three days ina row if you had the flu? If you want an alternative day trip from Siena, have a look at Colle val d’Elsa. Noted for their glassmaking tradition, it’s a rather charming place and not over-touristed, but will still handle English speakers with skill.
In Montepulciano, the walk from the town down/back up to San Biagio is either a wonderful appetiser, or a great way to walk lunch off. If staying there, I’d warmly recommend Politian apartments run by a lovely chap who equips them wonderfully, with genuine character, and the quirkiness of no TV because he is embarrassed by it. La Grotta - Localita’ San Biagio, 15, Phone: 0578 757607 closed wed was surprisingly good/fine considering it’s proximity to San Biagio, and the service food were exemplary. Borgo Buio - Via Borgo Buio 10, Phone: 0578 717497 closed mon was less fine, but if the host singing opera to the diners appeals as an experience, then I could see how this would make up for a decent but unexciting kitchen. Osteria del Conte - Via San Donato, 19, Phone: 0578.766.062 closed wed was probably the favourite of the trip, being very understated/modest yet delivered good (not great) food very well in a more natural setting. One where an untouristy ambiance won out over finer dining at La Grotta.
Siena didn’t do much for us, with us finding it a bit reserved. Good exercise walking around the city though (ditto for Montepulciano’s steep hill). I will recommend Dolceforte (http://www.dolcefortesiena.it) 0577 282 526 10am-11pm on via Calzoleria 12, literally a stone’s throw from the Palio, but being a side street, seems harder to find and hence less touristy. We enjoyed a good Italian beer with lunch and it performed wonderfully. STRONGLY recommended is the tiny farmers market on Friday mornings in the old market area Piazza del Mercato, just below the Palio. Small but exceptional quality, from stunning breads to melt in the mouth Porchetta, wonderful cheeses etc. Worth planning the days around this if good food motivates you.
Happy to pass on ideas for Amalfi coast - it’s been a while since we’ve been, but we’ve visited four times, so have a few recommendations. Depending on where you are staying, I may have recommendations.
Before you go, see if you can get hold of the pocket walking book by Julian Tippett in the Landscapes series. Invaluable for giving an insight into the underused criss-cross of paths along the coast, that make a mockery of the hordes that ply the Cinque Terre paths. They can be hard work going uphill, so be sneaky and use buses to go up, and then walk back down. Great food, especially the seafood, underrated wines, but the views may send you dumbstruck, and positively force a slowing of the pace to appreciate them. A place where I would dig my heels in and say don’t plan a big trip every day. Take the paths and the excellent public transport, and let the place ease your stresses away… and if that doesn’t work, just grab a cake at Andrea Pansa in Amalfi!
regards
Ian
Ian, your advice would be much appreciated. We’re planning on four days and three nights in the Amalfi area. Ravello sounds lovely for a stay, and perhaps also Positano. We need to get to Naples the following day, so perhaps that should structure our visit.
It seems there is no real surcharge for dropping off in different cities, so as it stands now, we’ll be driving into the area from Montepulciano, after a short stop at ancient Pompeii. We’re seasoned drivers, but we do not plan to drive in Amalfi, so would like to drop the car off at our first stop.
There is nice ferry from Naples to several cities along the Amalfi Coast. That would be my first choice. Hit Pompeii, head to the ferry dock in Naples and relax. Ravello and Positano are our favorite towns along the coast, but they are all beautiful and unique in their own way.
As a side note, if you have time the History Museum in Naples is an excellent compliment to a tour of Pompeii. Many of the most interesting artifacts are in the museum and no longer on the city site.
Hi Randall
For me, the car could be a liability in every location but rural Tuscany. If you want to see the famous sites in Rome and Florence, then a car is spurious. If you want one to spend as much time outside the cities, then a car is very useful, but consider staying outside and getting train or bus in when needed - it can be less stress. I’m told Frascati is lovely, but there are plenty of options. However if you want to spend the majority of the time in the city, then don’t have a car. Driving in the countryside is usually very enjoyable, but towns can be awkward and confusing, with cities manic and stressful. Working out where your priorities are will direct you to the right choice. For the return from Naples, consider a pre-booked taxi for ~ €120-140 which would be a very de-stressing way to finish.
Ravello is special, especially for me as dusk draws nearer as you watch the boast making their final journeys for the day. It’s not ideal if you want to see a lot in those 3-4 days. If you want to be busy, then either Amalfi or Sorrento are better (I like the former but not much the latter). Personally I’d say ditch any formal plans (except Pompeii) and use the time there to walk, relax, gaze at the stunning scenery and eat the wonderful seafood.
Positano looks beautiful when approaching from the coast, and lovely in a different way if walking down from Montepertuso (take the bus up there as it’s quite high - the walk is surprisingly quick to descend from the clouds). Personally I find the town itself a little soulless below the pastel beauty of the houses, and see it as a nice half day trip taking in a ferry trip, rather than a place to base. Praiano gets a lot of love on the SlowTrav forum, but I’ve not stayed there. Atrani isn’t a place to stay, as it lacks the views, but very much recommended as a half-day trip, being an easy stroll from Amalfi and not too long down the steep paths from Ravello. On a stinking hot day it is sheltered heaven - a place for a cooling beer or a wonderful degustazione menu of seafood at A’ Paranza. Take it steady as there are (IIRC) >20 dishes that are a great insight into the seafood on the coast. To finish a lemon cake that you think you couldn’t even taste a mouthful of, yet seemingly refreshes you to the point of wondering if there is more.
In Amalfi, there is a little gem Cantina San Nicola, that is no longer the classic enoteca it was, but apparently still good but more of a restaurant now. It’s hidden away up some steps on the left (heading from the sea) about halfway up the winding Amalfi main street here’s an image of those steps http://mw2.google.com/mw-panoramio/photos/medium/3202136.jpg Being hidden away it avoids too many tourists and we bumped into some locals in there we knew from l’Altracostiera, so is a way to escape to a cool retreat. Andrea Pansa do wonderful cakes - particularly those using the local ‘lemons’ (not strictly a lemon, but just looks like a big knobbly lemon, albeit a little sweeter). Also a good place to have Granita in the area it originates from - wonderfully cooling. We’ve been lucky in the harbourside restaurant that looks like it’s a tourist trap, but was very good on both occasions we went.
Ravello has the incredibly posh and wonderfully scenic, but the place to go was always the simple trattoria delivered with aplomb - Cumpa Cosimo, still amazingly (I hear) with Matriarch Netta Bottone presiding over it. Worth though also checking the lunch prices at the fancy hotels, as apparently there were surprising bargains to be had then.
p.s. I forgot to mention. the local Amalfi independent travel & tourist agency l’altracostiera are very good indeed including acting as agents for local flats/houses for vacation lets. Prices are fair and they are professional in how they manage them. Also a good place for organised day trips if that appeals.
Back in '03 we flew into Rome for several days in May then took the train to Florence where we rented a car and spent five weeks out in the Tuscan hill town of Rivolta, many day trips by car and train to Lucca, Siena, Voltera and surrounding towns with a trip to Elba, cheap and a good beach. A gathering friends and family, great food. Rome was simply wonderful on both both ends of the trip.
p.s. Just heard Cantina San Nicola is no more. That’s a shame.
Quick question, as we’re in the Tuscan countryside as we speak…
Any recommendations for a late lunch/early aperitivo in Siena? We’re driving in from Castellina in Chianti, and want to taste wines (probably at Enoteca in Piazza, but unsure) before dinner at Salefino in town at 8:00. I’m hoping to drive there, park the car for the day, and then return to our hotel after our 8:00 dinner. Any thoughts are appreciated.
Yesterday we visited Monsanto, which was gorgeous, although the tasting left something to be desired. We were served their Chardonnay, Cabernet, and Chianti Classico. None showed terribly well. Our guide was very friendly, and handled some gaps in knowledge with patience and charm.
Grab one of the little tables on the Piazza Del Campo and watch the world go by.
Last time we were there (a long time ago, I must admit) we did what Michael suggests – bought a bottle of cheap rosso, charcuterie, cheese and a loaf of bread and camped in the Piazza del Campo and watched the world walk by. It was a gorgeous spring day and all these years later it is a beautiful lasting memory. Much more so than visiting the duomo nearby
Hi Michael
We see the world differently - that would be the last place I would seek to eat, as it really is very touristy. Still there is room for differing priorities and there are always plenty of people happy to sit, eat and drink there.
FWIW we were quite underwhelmed by Siena, however the Friday morning farmer’s market was exceptional (not big but wonderful quality). One place that surprised in a positive way was Dolceforte on the little road, little more than an alleyway - via Calzoleria # 12 which was very close to the campo.
regards
Ian
Funny, I ripped on Venice in another thread for the same reasons. Travel is like wine.