Help me plan a trip across northern Spain

As I travel to Spain once or twice a year as a wine buyer, I have a fair knowledge of the wine and food landscape.
On the way from Madrid to Rias Baixas, you must visit Ribeira Sacra. It’s one of the most beautiful wine appellations I’ve ever seen. A good place to eat and taste wines is Adega Algueira, They have a restaurant on premise.
You’d go through Bierzo first to reach Ribeira Sacra, another great appellation to visit. Bodegas y Viñedos Mengoba outside the Bierzo bowl makes singular wines. Gregory Perez is French with Spanish ancestry I believe.
Those two are top producers in my book.
Expect rain in Rias Baixas after the sunshine of Ribeira Sacra.
In Pontevedra area, Bodegas Albamar, Bodegas Zarate, are top producers.

2 Likes

Sounds like a blast. Is that seven hotels changes?

It’s only 5 if you don’t count arriving and departing from Madrid :wink:

1 Like

Claude, thank you for your recommendations! We drink Albamar and Zarate here, but Zarate did not answer my email, and I have not been able to find contact info for Albamar. The only visit we have scheduled now is Bodegas Gerardo Méndez.

Thank you for everyone who has chimed in. We’ll be in the San Sebastian area for 3 nights next month. Looks like our hotel has a very nice dining program.

High up in San Sebastian is Restaurant Rekondo. The food would be excellent in any other city in Europe but against the local competition here I’d say it’s only very good. It’s second billing to what is easily the best wine list in the city and possibly northwest Spain. Both in depth and especially in pricing. And the setting/atmosphere is lovely. Our (very gastronomically inclined) group of friends spent a week long trip in the area - including meals at a few 3 stars, Elkano and the full guided pintxos scene. And our leisurely afternoon at Rekondo - ask for a peek around the cellar - was a top 3 experience along with etxebarri and casa Julian - graded by how much we still talk about it and can’t wait to return. Possibly #1.

2 Likes

Just got an appt at Albamar

1 Like

How far in advance do you have to book Etxebarri? Considering heading back this august and was not able to get in last time.

It’s a couple of months, I think. But they are often closed in August so it might be moot.

1 Like

We are meeting another couple in San Sebastian, both of us tried to book Etxebarri, no success. I researched how to do it, found the exact time reservations open, practiced a couple days before lol. It’s not an actual reservation system, it’s a reservation request system. I found dozens of reddit and other posts from people who said they’ve been trying for years with no success. We never got a response at all, which apparently is common. I have a feeling no one gets in there without a connection, having dined there before, maybe some hotels or services have leverage. Maybe some people just get lucky, no idea.

Thanks, Alan. That’s a helpful reality check. I love the region and would love to go, but don’t have hook-ups, so will probably write it off and look at other spots.

1 Like

Don’t let Etxebarri be your be all end all for going back to the region. There are many wonderful restaurants, high end and casual. Etxebarri is great, but not irreplaceable. O Pazo in Galicia, Txispa from an Etxebarri alum, La Huertona in Asturias…all of those are fantastic and easy to book.

1 Like

Well, it wasn’t actually my idea, we were just tagging along if it worked out lol. I’m actually quite happy going with more simple, casual places :slight_smile:

The “it” there was the restaurant. not the region. I’m smitten so that’s not an option :wink:

Does Uber operate out of Madrid airport?

I believe so. But there are also plenty of taxis.

Yes

1 Like

Adding to the wonderful info shared here, we did a trip a few years ago, coming from France. We stayed in Cadaques, just over the french border, and ate at Compartir (wonderful meal and wine). They also rent out a 2 bedroom apartment, so we stayed there. We drove cross country via Huesca, deviating to the foothills of the Pyrenees, staying at a rustic hotel (La Posada de Lalola Hotel & Restaurant in Buera) where the very friendly owner cooked, and also made his own wine, which was quite decent.
From there it was about 4 hours around Pamplona to San Sebastien. One of many highlights in San Sebastien was the unassuming Bar Sport (Fermin Calbeton Kalea) where the steak was fabulous.
Enjoy.

Bar Sport is one of the few places that opens quite early, so a perfect stop for chorizo and a first sip of rosato.