Just got an email from Bertrand Chevillon. They make a bourgogne that is chardonnay, and a white Nuits St. Georges villages that is “pinot gouges”…a white pinot noir mutation. (And, despite the color, I could often think it might be a red wine.)
I recall a delicious Pinot Bianco from a trip to Venezia some years back . . . ah yes, I can taste it now from my memory bank, as I sit at a table at Ai Gondolieri, late September, . . . after a stroll across the Fondamenta Zorzi in the Dorsoduro section of the city, now looking for a place to eat . . . There. Ai Gondolieri. Seems like an acceptable place. Nice mahogany bar. Menu looks good. Let’s go in. Seated. White linen tablecloth. Good stemware. We order.
Manola, a statuesque brunette with pure, white marble skin, and a smile of warmth, pours a 2006 Russiz Superiore Pinot Bianco into the glass. For a minute I am distracted by her hand, long, tender fingers marked by the deep red color of her fingernails, polish the color of a fresh spill of amarone on a white linen tablecloth. She gently lifts the bottle, coaxing the drop at the rim of the bottle into the glass, rather than down the outside neck, smiles, and disappears. As I return to the wine, my senses are filled with the offering of fresh flowers, green apple, ripe peaches, straw and the cold stone of a rocky terrain on a windswept hillside in late Autumn. The wine, paired with a smoked proscuitto, and a soup of potato foam and porcini mushrooms, is a match for which poets write sonnets. But alas, this day, I have neither time nor energy to pour out a sonnet. So I am left with this note, reminiscent of a Coelho tasting note, and the risk that months or years, perhaps days, from now, I will be embarrassed by the contents of this reply post.
So “great Pinot Blanc” you ask? and I answer, yes.
As you picked my interest, you made me want to buy some Henri Gouges 1er Cru La Perrière Blanc !
To go back to the main topic, I am mostly familiar with Alsatian Pinot Blanc.
I recommend trying Domaine Ostartag’s Pinot Blanc Barriques (especially the 2010). It is basically an oaked Pinot Blanc with “only” 5% new oak. It turns out to be a great dry and mineral wine. It also has some peach and hazelnut aroma.
According to the winemaker, it is made from Pinot Blanc and Auxerrois (which is allowed under the Alsace AOC regulations).
You can find it in France at around 10€ a bottle. I sincerely suggest you should try this wine, if you ever were to find it.
Perhaps some of you already know this, but I just noticed onWikipedia that the designation “Pinot Blanc” under the Alsace AOC is allowed to contain other grapes:
the varieties Pinot blanc, Auxerrois blanc, Pinot gris and Pinot noir (vinified white, without skin contact) may all be used, but a blend of Pinot blanc and Auxerrois is the most common. The most full-bodied “Pinot blanc” wines from Alsace, with a spicy and smokey character and moderate acidity, are probably dominated by Auxerrois grapes.
The Cavallotto 2010 Langhe Bianco (Piedmont) is made from Pinot Noir—or Pinot Nero—and with no skin contact at all, the must ferments for 58 days and then stays in tank for nine months. It’s quite hard to find, as there are only 450 cases made, but it is marvelous.
I had no idea that wine was so limited in production. Surprisingly, it’s distributed here in Massachusetts, and I’ve had it. I wasn’t impressed. Maybe I should try a different vintage (forget which one I had).
Ha, I am more interested in trying the Ponsot 1er cru that’s 100% Aligote, so much so that I have ordered a couple of bottles of 2010. This board definitely isn’t good for the bank account.
Thanks for the Ostertag Barriques recommendation. I see that it’s available in the US at very reasonable prices.
I should maybe point out – I haven’t tried most of the ones recommended, but I have tried quite a few from several different countries and been unimpressed. I’m not looking for “good” Pinot Blanc; I’m looking for the GREAT stuff. I’m not saying I know for sure that some of the less expensive stuff that’s been recommended isn’t in the quality range of this Messmer GG, but I do seriously doubt it. I think this wine was on par with some very expensive white Burgundies. Anyway, carry on.
The top bottling from Cantina Terlano will blow your mind. Sometimes they age it on the lees under argon gas in stainless for ten years. Rocks and complexity.