For me, this is the most exciting space in wine in a long time. So much so, I have contemplated a # of times recently whether I have too much still wine and whether I want to keep buying still wine at the expense of more champagne. I am sure that this extreme thinking (!) will pass but there is some truth in it, as I have bought as much, if not more, grower champagne in the last 18 months than I have still wine. Our vacation this year is dedicated to Champagne (well, at least the part I am managing, as The Boss has decision rights over the Paris pieces).
Mousse, Marguet, Vouette et Sorbee, Vilmart, Dethune, Miniere, Mignon…so many of them that I really have fallen for. It’s a great space to investigate and learn about, much like Noah indicates through the # of really good books out there now on what’s happening.
Thanks to Subu and all others for the tips and thoughts. I agree with Frank and others that this is an exciting space in wine. I have Peter Liem’s and David White’s books, and a few others, and I am a Champagne Warrior subscriber. I find that I am still figuring out how I align with Brad’s ratings.
My eyes were opened by Keith Levenberg with a 1999 Pierre Peters Chevillon that blew me away and even topped a 2002 Bollinger RD.
I have had the luck to have had many vintage Krugs, Cristals and Doms through the generosity of friends and liked them all but don’t know if I could describe the differences between them. I find it a bit hard to really nail down style and find that the books I’ve read tend to wax poetic about pretty much every wine and a “cheat sheet” would be a thousand times more useful than five pages on Selosse and three pages on Prevost.
With every house and grower putting out at a bare minimum 3-4 wines and usually more like a dozen, each named after anything from the obscure lieu-dit that appears in no map to the name of the sadly deceased family donkey, it gets very hard to know much. At least in Burgundy, a Bonnes Mares is a Bonnes Mares and the style of the large handful of owners is basically knowable and predictable over time…
Really hard for me, especially, to get a handle on what should be purchased in caseloads to age for a decade or two and what should be picked up for near term drinking. My current favorite for the latter has been Chartogne-Taillet St-Anne, but again I seem to lack the vocabulary to describe what i love about it…
From Chartogne I very much like the unique Heurtebise BdB. 2008 and 2009 were excellent, and I thought 2009 was the best wine at their table at Fete du Champagne in late 2016.
I would love to have a cheat sheet too, but we have to remember Burgundy has had centuries of iterations to get to where it is today. Even now a Bonne Mares from Mugnier is different from Dujac’s to that of Roumier’s.
Champagne years back was a sweet wine, Aube region was not even a part of it. Then came the era of big houses, much like negociants of burgundy. With big marketing budgets they marketed that champagne was all about blending. Just like a manufacturing bags, champagne was lost any site specificity, it became a blink-blink wine. It was more about image and style than what was in the bottle!
Grower champagne is a relatively new phenomenon. The growers are learning which plots are doing well and which aren’t. What works in the cellar and what doesn’t. For instance, it’s laughable that a whole village is labeled as grand-cru. But I understand these are just the first steps.
Hopefully in 50-100 years from now there will be more site specific champagne. People would have found the “Montrachets” and the “Musignys”
Its a learning curve and we are still a part of it. I’m excited to taste, learn and explore…its fascinating.
I hope we as humanity can address the climate change. Otherwise champagne in 100 years will most likely be a still wine area!