Good lil' ol' Burgs

I confess that I’ve fallen behind on my cellar inventory, so went dumpster diving the other evening for a minor 2007 white Burg I knew I had and also found a minor 2002 red Burg I thought was gone. Both are from a Rully grower I love and used to represent. Both showed brilliantly. A little surprising but no shock that a nine year old white Rully from a fine producer is in fine fettle, but I don’t expect Rully reds to make it past a decade.

2007 Jacqueson Rully 1er Cru ‘Gresigny’ Blanc – The color is light gold. The aromas show some of the mealiness of Meursault along with touches of hay and lime. The palate has all of the above, along with notes of pear and a hint of pineapple. This is lively, although the texture shows some roundness and richness that only comes from age… speaking of age, this is Jacqueson’s oldest vineyard, with the vines planted right after WW II. I don’t like the word ‘complexity’, but there’s no denying it. I’ve had this over a dozen times and it’s at its best today. Rated 91.7.

2002 Jacqueson Rully 1er Cru ‘Cloux’ Rouge – The color is moderately pale crimson, but with no hints of orange or browning. I get excited when I see this color in an older Burgundy because it sends a message that the balance has carried it through. The aromas are redolent of hardwood forest after rain, but with no hint of dead leaves. The prominent fruit is red cherry. The palate is fresh, even taut (I love 2002 red Burgs for the combination of ripeness and acidity), the fruit now more black cherry than red, along with a hint of red raspberry and really fine intensity of flavor in a light-bodied format. I have never had a Jacqueson this old and am grateful that I left it this long. I’ve got two more downstairs, one will wait for the end of the year and then I’ll decide how long to hold the other. Red Rully at double-digit age is an outlier for sure. Rated 92.4.

Dan Kravitz

That bottling of red was my favorite bargain burg from 1990. Must have gone thru a case of it.

I’m patiently waiting on my 2005’s of this wine. Tried one about two years ago and it was no where near ready. Have one on deck to try again in the next few months.