Arguably too large array of wines. Very fast paced presentation of bottles. Recall 1953 (?) Torres Cabernet Sauvignon which was kind of oxidized but at moments presented well. I recently noted the 1996 Remírez de Ganuza Rioja Reserva so just tasted in the interest of keeping pace. Random ordering, reds served blindly. Separating Piedmont from Spain for ease of reading. Pretty sure I missed capturing a few offerings.
2023 Clos i Terrasses Priorat, Laurel (14.5%). Slightly aged looking golden color, clean, very good shine. The nose is stuffed tangerine and orange citrus, honeyed and floral, some vague chalkiness, not much sense of place. Full-bodied, spicy with similar big time citrus. Honeysuckle helps sweeten the already ripe apple, pear, apricot fruit. The acidity is weak. Big wine, long finish, inoffensively simple. Unspecified percentages of Garnatxa Blanca, Chenin Blanc, Viognier, Moscatel.
2016 Von Winning Riesling, Pfalz, Forster Ungeheuer, Grosses Gewächs AP #38 (12.5%). Dullish green tinted deep gold, plenty of color albeit washes out at the rims. Aggressive nose of rubber, oil, and tangerine to pink grapefruit citrus, rounded out by tropical pineapple and papaya notes, long presence. Medium-bodied, dry but not excessively so. Acidity not overpowering, no clamp down and allows the flavors to fully reach the finish. More tropical pineapple, guava, pear. Large scaled and will remain so for some time, drinks young.
2012 Château Lynch-Bages Bordeaux, Pauillac (13.5%). Opaque, dark purple core, scarlet rims, decent saturation, looks young. The nose features gravel, lead, cedar, celery accompanied by cassis and cherry scents, overall full with little sense of movement. Full-bodied, the palate is plush and giving. Tannin level okay, if there’s drying sensations more likely from the toasty oak. More cedar and pebbles, quiet pencil lead which is the wine’s hallmark. The sour dark fruits come up a little short. Good wine, enjoyable, nothing superlative. 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot. 1.5 liter bottle.
2008 Giuseppe Cortese Nebbiolo, Piedmont, Barbaresco, Rabaja’ (14.0%). Youthful violet-ruby colored core, wide more scarlet rims, nice shine. Fresh, fruity nose, licorice, pressed flowers, open and friendly. Light-bodied, finer tannins with a “light chewiness.” I’d say the acidity is better than most. Floral with brightly sour red fruits. On the earthy, stony side with an herbal streak. I like the sinewy quality, nice wine.
2005 Silvio Grasso Nebbiolo, Barolo, Ciabot Manzoni (14.0%). Orangish red core, rust rims, clear throughout. The nose is fairly off-putting, soy, merde, mud, roasted fruits, not sure what’s up here. Medium-bodied, acidic and tacky in texture, comes across as tired. Herbal with cedar accents. The red cherry, red currant fruit sour and short. Tannin really clamps down at the finish. Opens some with air but never stabilizes into something better.
2016 Pecchenino Nebbiolo, Piedmont, Barolo, Bussia (14.5%). Young, mildly filmy purple to ruby hues, nothing unusual, looks pretty. There’s nice tautness to the nose, gets up in there, red fruits, anise, dried flowers, seems to open up with relative ease, likable. Medium-bodied, smooth, the tannin makes it “percolate” some and to my taste it’s rough in the good way. The sour red fruits bounce around genially. Floral and grapefruit shades. Can’t imagine it being any friendlier.
2011 Domenico Clerico Nebbiolo, Piedmont, Barolo, Pajana (14.5%). Fine sediment doesn’t impede clarity much, rust red to violet core, only shift at the rims is gets brighter, looks about its age. Good licorice and rose petals to the nose, demure cherry, red berry fruit, maybe chained up still and a little off-kilter, nice herbal lift. Medium-bodied, unduly tannic, clenches through the attack, some of it feels and tastes like wood tannin. Fruit super sour. Stony, still herbal, dries up even more through the finish. Licorice quieter. More white grapefruit. Can’t see much more coming than is in the glass today.
2004 CVNE Tempranillo, Rioja, Imperial Gran Reserva (13.5%). Bright violet ruby hues, no age showing, trim and bright. brisk nose in spite of the moderate alcohol level, mixed black and red fruits, cedar, broken stone, the oak well into resolving, to me primary yet. Medium-bodied with nice biting acidity. Thus the red fruits plenty tangy. Energetic leather, cedar, spices, celery, nothing here is relaxed. Structure does shorten the finish some. Better than nice, revisit much later. Mostly Tempranillo, remainder Mazuelo, Graciano.
1998 Clos Mogador Priorat (14.5%). Opaque purple core, dark reddish magenta rims, clean. Focused, high-toned nose of ripe raspberry, blueberry fruit, slate and stone, texturally it has almost too much lift. Medium-bodied, soft of touch, the tannin and acidity tamed. Ripe blacker fruits lead into blood iron, the quintessential llicorella, flowers. Tingly mouth presence, bounces along. It’s in a great place for visceral enjoyment, not a wine to ponder. 35% Grenache, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Syrah, 10% Carignan.
2014 Numanthia Tempranillo, Toro, Numanthia (15.0%). Darkly saturated purple core, thin magenta rims, a baby visually. The nose is oddly quiet, black fruits, light toast, rubber accents, can’t say I am finding more. Medium-bodied, the body consistent start to finish. No lack of wood tannin, as is to be expected with this producer. The rhubarb, cranberry, raspberry fruit not excessively sweet. Herbal notes. Very flavorful. Minimal feel of movement, again not sure what else to say except it’s a red wine crafted to impress with sheer scale.
2017 Alion Tempranillo, Ribera del Duero (15.0%). The core is dark purple unto black, slight filminess, dried blood red rims. Plummy nose, plenty of surmaturité and juiciness, merde, damp forest matter with metallic notes, whipped cream, lavender, while primary it smells either tired or wasn’t even meant to get this far down the line. Full-bodied, sluggish, minor acidity does its best to push forward, no tannin. Plum to prune, raisin, cherry, cranberry, very sweet, less so juicy. Old spices and dried herbs, still poopy and stewed. Not so much good for me, this one. The bottle etching is impressive though.
2015 Pintia Tempranillo, Toro (15.0%). Black core, substantial sediment floating about, thin brick red rims. Reductive nose of peanut shells, cow patties, and mud caked grasses and straw, the plum to currant fruit barely get out of the crib. Full-bodied, layered in a dry manner, tannin clumps it and prevents smooth progress. The fruit is thick and at times close to prunish, no discernible contours. Cocoa and dark chocolate accents. Tends to just lay there. Which if you simply want to be slathered in fruit works just fine. Tacky finish, grainy and dry. This is not my kind of wine and it may be quite nice to those whose it is.
2007 Vega Sicilia Tempranillo, Ribera del Duero (14.5%). Opaque black core, thin crimson rims, not easy to visually guess its age. The nose is thick unto impenetrable, chunks of plum, cassis, cherry fruit, there is an element of merde, vinegar and dill, not sure what kind of oak used, American or what. Full-bodied and layered, very, very expensive oak undergirds it all. In spite of the density the same fruit array has a notable tartness to it. Not as dry as I’d think given the oak level. Not entirely sure if it’s a product of relative youth or if the monolithic feel is what you pay for per se. 95% Tempranillo, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon.
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