I posted elsewhere (AdamsWein: So Fine am Rhein), about a visit to AdamsWein, where these Spätburgunders were the highlights:
A very unique style in Germany, in part because of using 100% whole clusters, but also the quality and tone of the fruit. This reflects her farming, but also the clones. She avoids both French clones (would ripen too early) and the various coarse German clones that dominated in previous decades. One of the benefits of an older family estate is access to the old Ritter clones (remember Ingelheim Spätburgunder was famous – and expensive – in the early 20th century) and she has moved to selection massale in all parcels. The results are marvelous.
We begin with the 2023 Ingelheim Spätburgunder, which is only 30% whole cluster and very juicy, fine, crisp and fresh. In the same mold as a 2022 I had tasted in Nyc, but in a better drinking zone right now. Open and enjoy.
Moving to the single-vineyard wines, which are all 100% whole cluster and 18 months in barrel, treated the same way, allowing the differences to create a vivid display of terroir in the glass. 2023 Heerweg Spätburgunder, is a west-facing limestone vineyard at the bottom of the slope. Warmer and the friendly modern juicy fruit is there, but with such a gorgeous fine ‘old fashioned’ character to the nose and the structure from the whole cluster approach. A very friendly and accessible wine for drinking now.
2023 Auf dem Haun Spätburgunder is directly above Heerweg on the hill, darker and less scrutable, driven by structure like the Chardonnay from the same vineyard. But, lovely lovely fruit, juicy small succulent berries and the whole cluster freshness.
2023 Horn Spätburgunder comes from the upper portion of the vineyard and is the most restrained, poised and elegant of the single-vineyard wines. But not tight or difficult. I love the clarity of the style, even with all the tightly-packed material, and the nose is heavenly. I look forward to seeing how it evolves over time. This is a GG vineyard, but as AdamsWein is not a VDP member, there is no GG on her label.
2023 Pares Spätburgunder is the big boy, the complete package. There is a wildness and a depth to the fruit, layered, but still with the lovely clarity and freshness that runs through all of these wines. This too is a GG vineyard, which she cannot label as such. It is the most famous Spätburgunder site in the village, but she found a plot that had been fallow for decades. She replanted and it is impressive, but presumably will only get more impressive as the vines age.