Never had a Lemberger, how are they compared to Austrian Blaufränkisch? If you are allowed to generalize.
Can’t recall his name (sorry) but IIRC then the Graz gentleman didn’t like Blaufränkisch due to its earthy tones with resemblance to Italian wines (perhaps one of the reasons I like them probably).
I’m not very well versed in Austrian Blaufränkisch, the ones I’ve had were similar to their Württemberg Lemberger counterparts (on the lighter side, more mineral). Same variety, just different soils and sometimes winemaking. Earthy is a good descriptor, along with red fruit and spice. Italian, sort of, as long as we’re in the north and are assuming a more subtle version of Barbera or Sangiovese (not quite as tannic and acidic).
I’m of no help but Sonnora was the best meal I had last year, no contest. (We drank Champagne btg, couple btls of Dauvissat and a glass of red.)
This is exactly what I have experienced as well.
Maybe time will help (probably not)?
Just had the -
2019 Spatburgunder ‘Alte Reben’ from WEINGUT PFEFFINGEN in the Pfalz -
Not much of a backbone, but big, gushy fruit that seemed in prime shape now. Can’t see this going much longer at this level - but it’s gorgeous now -
So we had our dinner yesterday - thanks for all the tips.
As first red, we went with the Twardowski 2016 Pinot Noix „Ardoise“: 12%, unfiltered, light red color. Red fruits on the nose combined with a slightly nutty streak. Medium length and a bit tart (similar to some 2021 burgundies). More a wine that went well with a turbot plate. Looked up pricing, and retail is around 85e - that’s pretty steep.
Unfortunately, the Furst 2015 that was recommended here, was sold out. They had a 2017, but wasn’t sure about the vintage, and could not call the WB hotline. Proposed some other wines recommended here, and the sommelier recommended the Friedrich Becker 2009 Spätburgunder Reserve to go with the duck. I must say this wine surprised me: beautiful garnet red transparent color. Not particularly fruity on the nose, but complexity in spades. Good length, with tannins starting to integrate. No obvious oak on the nose (vs a Huber 2012 last year, that was much more oaky). Quite a delicious wine!
PS opinions on the wines were split - 1 out of 3 preferred the first one.
PPS I found we were sitting next to a fellow forum member who had seen my post asking for advice - small world!
How was the food?
Up to standard for me (although their signature dish of tartare and caviar wasn’t worth the menu upgrade imho) - last year we did Viktor’s in the same region. Comparing them: Viktor’s for my tastes a bit more special even food-wise - Sonnora more classic French inspired. Everything around the food (bread, wine recommendations, service) slightly better at Sonnora. FYI menu at Sonnora was without extra’s was 338e.
I am absolutely loving Mosel Pinot these days. The wine that blew me away at the Spatburgunderstudy was the 20 Martin Mullen Ungsberg. I liked it so much I carried some home. It is similar to the Jonas Dostert and Lardot. 12% abv, translucent color, extremely light but still tons of flavor and complexity. This is what I love about Mosel Pinot.
Lyle Fass will offer future vintages of this wine. The 21 said 14% abv on the label but it did not taste it.
Thanks for reporting back (was curious to hear what you went for in the end and thoughts about it) and glad you go to try it, as I mentioned, this (would also ask the somm for the vintage rec) would have been the wine I went for. Sounds like it was quite a treat!
Just getting caught up on this thread…
@Martin_Zwick - In response to your note about the 2013 Dr. Heger “Häusleboden” above - I enjoyed this 2017 Dr. Heger “Häusleboden” Ihringer Winklerberg Spätburgunder GG immensely.
A very elegant and complex Spätburgunder from some of the oldest Pinot Noir vines in Baden, planted in 1956, Selection Massale from Clos Vougeot. Red cherry, raspberry, plum, some spice, all with great length and fully integrated oak.
The pictures below are from my visit of the Ihringer Winklerberg vineyard in 2019. The Häusleboden block is located adjacent to the small house in the vineyard. The entire vineyard is a pretty impressive site.
I pulled the trigger on a Wasenhaus 2020 Kanzel, and wish I had the entry bottle along side for comparison.
Drank it over three nights and while at least in my head the stuffing was slightly more dense (compared to the entry bottle), curious to see how it develops in 5, 10 years but based on this bottle I don’t see it transcending into something more complex.
If I interpret @LasseK’s view correctly, then I share it in that I find as much joy in the entry level bottling. Lovely nonetheless of course though I had higher expectations.
It is very fun to taste the cuvées next to each other, because there is certainly a difference. You do get more depth and concentration as you climb the ladder.
But when I drink them on their own, the base Spätburgunder gives me almost as much joy and same experience as when I drink one of the higher end cuvées on their own. But that is because they are so damn consistent in style and quality with their reds.
Lets see if the gap widens with age…
Hesitant to post since it will get swarmed under the BD madness …
2018 Koehler-Ruprecht Spätburgunder Kabinett trocken This was disappointing. Lovely nose with promise of rose cuttings and dank crypts, but the body was anemic, yeasty elements came out and there was a cheap 2x4 element on the finish.
2015 Josef Walter Hundsrück Spätburgunder “J” A lot of brown in the color, but still really fresh and taut. A lot of power and depth with orchid potting mix lifting up to more fermented berries aka cool kombucha. Really dynamic and I think this has a lot more beats to go.
2020 Lukas Hammelmann Caesslin Rosé. This was actively gross. There was a bile acid note that repelled. Sorry, nothing further to add.
Sorry about the Hammelmann. I have tasted the tiniest amount of mouse in one or two of his wines. Let me know where to send you a full refund.
What’s up Spätburgunderpeople!
A few great wines to report on.
I had 2015 Henrik Möbitz Kapelle and 2014 Enderle and Moll Muschelkalk this past weekend. Both were light, ethereal and delicious. More similar than not. I enjoyed them both very much. However I was left to wonder wether they had the structure to get better with more age? I would guess not and neither really had developed any tertiary, aged Pinot characteristics. I hope I am wrong.
Tonight I had the 2021 Jurgen Von der Mark “Shivers” - This is one of those, DAMN!, why did I not buy more. These are brought in through Lyle Fass. What a wine. It had just the right amount of oak to frame the wine. The fruit was vibrant and delicious. This is a very serious Grand Cruesque wine. At ~$55 this is an excellent value. Definitely leaning more toward a traditional Burgundy than some of the light, juicy, fresh wines I have mentioned here.
@marc_shivers I hope you ordered some of these!
Meyer Nakel 21 Estate tonight. Poured at a fun Germanic wine × vinyl event.
Cursed vintage and vibe on the music with this.
Pretty and nicely delineated. Black currant and sweet pepper. Nice acids and pom juice finiah. Off key woody notes* that annoy me though. I think this would resolve.
I will soon be announcing a Spatburgunderstudy lunch in NYC on Sunday, February 25 at Hainan Chicken House! I will be bringing along a case of rare Spatburgunders, Mobitz, Wasenhaus, early Enderle and Moll some others dating to the early 1990s.
Thought I would share it here first. As soon as I finalize the arrangements I will post it here in the offline section.
If the 2014 Liaison can give any indication for the Mischelkalk then I would say, don’t lose hope. As I mentioned in a few posts in the past, it showed both primary and lovely tertiary notes along with its textural excellence.
To keep the excitement going, drank a 2015 Enderle & Moll Muschelkalk over the last three nights. Lovely on the first night though it felt quite tight and in need of air/time. However on night two/three things developed (too) fast with the fruit freshness fading, to my surprise. 2015 has across the range been more unpredictable, with either primary faded/fading or when it’s on, it’s excellent.
That is good to hear. Thanks for the note on the 2015.
BTW - for you EU folks, Phil Lardot just launched a website and is having a sale to celebrate the launch.
I really liked the 22 Kontakt Red (carbonic Pinot Noir) and 20 Euros is a steal. It is a very light, gulpable wine that I serve with a slight chill. I have not had the 22 Pinot Noir but would be interested in trying that as well.
