AC was on this evening and the temperature was as cool as any wine store in NYC. The new ceiling-high racks are overwhelming and things are pretty chaotic. Some wines are pretty much inaccessible at the moment – certainly if you’re too big to squeeze between some narrow gaps.
Perusing the selection, it appear there are far fewer interesting wines at the high end.
Italians: The mid-priced range on the high south wall are pretty much what they always were – good selection of good producers at very good producers. But the Barolo selection is not what it once was. There are a number of producers I’ve never heard of from importers I’ve never heard of, including a couple of 2008s, which I’d guess were close-outs from the cantine or the distributors. Also, the appellations are getting mixed up. There was a Barolo next to an Amarone next to and IGT Toscano. I don’t really follow Brunello that closely, but I think that selection is much narrower.
Rhone: Four or five Graillot bottlings and some Chave, but Balthazar, which they’d stocked for years, was gone, as was the Levet. I can’t really recall another big name in that section. Generally thinner.
Burgundy: I didn’t look closely, but this seems to be much weaker than it was and there seem to be large swaths of shelf with single wines.
German: Still a number of good producers, but the selection seemed kind of random – a Kabinett from this producer, a Spatlese from that, etc. There are some producers I’d never seen from importers I’d never heard of. Oh, and no Prum. In the past they’d always had a couple of bottlings.
California: At the moment, much of this is on high shelves or partly obstructed. It will be easier to assess when they finish the rearrangement.
Overall still some interesting wines at very good prices. But also a lot of crud that wasn’t there before. And a lot of wines were in the wrong slot, or in two slots. Maybe it’s the current chaos, but it looked like either no one knows wine or they can’t be bothered to keep the store organized.
At least now they have the actual, discounted price on the shelf by each bottle so you don’t have to do the discount math yourself.