G. Mascarello 2004 Monprivato: Do not do it. Just don't. DON'T.

[Bill_Boykin]

Certainly the nature of the specific vintage can provide some generalized drinking guidelines,but do not necessarily apply to all winemakers,especially those who are known for their “traditional” styles…and G Mascarello is one of them.Interestingly enough,Mauro Mascarello characterized his 03 Monprivato as more structured,powerful, intense and classic in style…actually preferring it to his 01.

I have found the 03 to be more burgundian and approachable,so…go figure.
So trying to square press comments on 04 with several different winemakers’ wines can be difficult unless you approach them individually.

[Evan_Dawson]

@Bill Moore

What’s interesting is that I recall discussion early on of 2004 being among the more relatively “approachable” vintages for Barolo (this Asimov article in particular comes to mind: http://www.nytimes.com/2009/02/04/dining/reviews/04wine.html)

Yet, in discussion on WB and elsewhere, it sounds like if they were ever open, it was only for a brief window. In people’s experience, is the OP’s assessment more specific to the producer or could this be a broader observation about the vintage?

It is certainly a feature of this producer, but I can also say that a bottle of Marcarini 2004 Brunate was similarly tight. However, that was a couple of years ago. I was briefly convinced that the wine was just light and non-complex. I’ve been persuaded to hold my other bottle for a long time.

[Ken_V]

@Keith Levenberg

@Evan Dawson

On opening: Almost no nose at all. A bit like cherry menthol, if smelled through a wet towel.

This is a perfect description of almost every Monprivato I’ve ever had, except not just the nose - drinking it is like drinking it through a towel too - and not just immediately on opening. I don’t think I’ve ever had a Monprivato that was ready to drink.

Keith,

Have you tried the 98? It’s never not been ready. Silky and smooth (for a traditional Barolo anyway). I would think the 2003 might be similar, but haven’t tried it. All the Monprivatos from the 70s are drinking well now, and the 1980 is a lovely wine if you can find a well-stored bottle. The 1967 Barolo is a glorious wine that includes Monprivato grapes (as well as Villero and Bussia Soprano).

[Keith_Levenberg]

I had the 98 a few years after release (not recently) and thought it tasted like drinking cotton. Every now and then there are posts here about how some or another vintage of Monprivato is showing gloriously, which I also think tastes like drinking cotton.

[Ken_V]

@Keith Levenberg

I had the 98 a few years after release (not recently) and thought it tasted like drinking cotton. Every now and then there are posts here about how some or another vintage of Monprivato is showing gloriously, which I also think tastes like drinking cotton.

Then it’s just not for you.

[Keith_Levenberg]

I don’t think you can say that just on account of a difference of opinion about when it’s ready to drink.

[Bill_Boykin]

Cotton?
Not as appetizing as animal fur…

[Bill_Boykin]

@Keith Levenberg

I don’t think you can say that just on account of a difference of opinion about when it’s ready to drink.

Hmmm.
Seems like he just did.
Didn’t he?
I’m sure he did.

[Z_A_c_s_a_n]

@Chris Seiber

Great post. My few experiences with too-young Monprivato have been similar. It isn’t searingly tannic and astringent like most Barolo at too early of an age, it’s just very mute and simple. It’s like Mascarello made a pleasant but basic $20 Langhe nebbiolo for you.

I’ve been sitting on some 2004…

This basic $20 Langhe Nebbiolo is now pushing $40 for the 2010 release. I’ve yet to crack one and had sort of forgotten about them, until your reminder. Good vintage and producer, so hoping the trickle down effect applies here.

[Chris_Seiber]

I’m still: (a) puzzling over what the “tastes like drinking cotton” expression means in this context, and (b) wondering if Bill Moore is a lawyer.

[Arif_F]

@Z. A c s a n

@Chris Seiber

Great post. My few experiences with too-young Monprivato have been similar. It isn’t searingly tannic and astringent like most Barolo at too early of an age, it’s just very mute and simple. It’s like Mascarello made a pleasant but basic $20 Langhe nebbiolo for you.

I’ve been sitting on some 2004…

This basic $20 Langhe Nebbiolo is now pushing $40 for the 2010 release. I’ve yet to crack one and had sort of forgotten about them, until your reminder. Good vintage and producer, so hoping the trickle down effect applies here.

Lucky you!

[Bill_Moore]

@Chris Seiber

I’m still: (a) puzzling over what the “tastes like drinking cotton” expression means in this context, and (b) wondering if Bill Moore is a lawyer.

Chris, I’m a consultant, so the pun is equally apt.

[ToddFrench]

@Ken V

@Keith Levenberg

@Evan Dawson

On opening: Almost no nose at all. A bit like cherry menthol, if smelled through a wet towel.

This is a perfect description of almost every Monprivato I’ve ever had, except not just the nose - drinking it is like drinking it through a towel too - and not just immediately on opening. I don’t think I’ve ever had a Monprivato that was ready to drink.

Keith,

Have you tried the 98? It’s never not been ready. Silky and smooth (for a traditional Barolo anyway). I would think the 2003 might be similar, but haven’t tried it.

I’ll try to save a bottle of mine for the next NY Berserkerfest so we can slug one down.

[Jamie_Pettigrew]

Beautiful wine on release…amazingly approachable. No regrets opening one back then.

[EricG]

@Evan Dawson

Man, do I feel stupid…

Giuseppe Mascarello 2004 Barolo Monprivato

Now, in my defense, I have laid my only bottle down for a long snooze. This was a friend’s bottle, and he wanted to open it “just to see.” There was no stopping it.

This would be like trying to get a feel for the Grand Canyon by reading black-and-white magazines. But then, it’s always valuable to experience what a truly closed down, young wine is like.

On opening: Almost no nose at all. A bit like cherry menthol, if smelled through a wet towel. On the palate, lithe and graceful and almost floating, with a subtle grab of tannins on the back.

Two hours later: A beautiful nose, but absolutely a ringer for Pinot Noir. I would have loved to throw this into a Pinot line up with friends. Soft ruby color wouldn’t have distracted anyone, either. Strange how Pinot-like it was at this stage, because…

Five hours later: …it became Nebbiolo the way the old schoolers used to do it. Earthy and tarry and just kissed by flowers and fruit. Still, the nose was not all that intense, and the palate seemed distant, like the girl who was trying not to look at you because she was about to break up with you.

24 hours later: A remarkable transformation. In no way complete, but much more open on the palate. That grace remains, but now there is a tannic grip that adds length. It’s an infant finally able to stretch its legs. Beautiful.

Where is this wine going? I’ll check back in some time in the 2020s. For now, it’s a mistake to open this wine, and not a pleasurable mistake. You don’t knock on the hotel room door of Pavarotti at 3am and expect him to jump up and belt out Caruso, do you?

Thanks, Evan, for saving me from my own curiosity. I’m going to try to forget I own any…

[Ken_V]

@Keith Levenberg

I don’t think you can say that just on account of a difference of opinion about when it’s ready to drink.

I wasn’t responding to your comment just about the 1998, but the implication that you’ve had much older vintages of Monprivato: “Every now and then there are posts here about how some or another vintage of Monprivato is showing gloriously, which I also think tastes like drinking cotton.” which I assume means too tannic. If you think the 1970 or 71 or even the 82 or 85 “tastes like drinking cotton.” then Monprivato is not for you. It’s ok. Not everyone has to like every wine.

[Keith_Levenberg]

@Ken V

@Keith Levenberg

I don’t think you can say that just on account of a difference of opinion about when it’s ready to drink.

I wasn’t responding to your comment just about the 1998, but the implication that you’ve had much older vintages of Monprivato: “Every now and then there are posts here about how some or another vintage of Monprivato is showing gloriously, which I also think tastes like drinking cotton.” which I assume means too tannic. If you think the 1970 or 71 or even the 82 or 85 “tastes like drinking cotton.” then Monprivato is not for you. It’s ok. Not everyone has to like every wine.

Most of those “glorious showing” threads I mentioned relate to recent vintages like late '90s stuff, etc., where even lesser and less structured nebbiolos would strike me as ridiculously young to drink. Not truly aged stuff. When people say that Monprivato just a few years past release is drinking great, I am absolutely flummoxed. It makes no sense to me.
The '85 I mentioned was not quite in the cotton territory but still a few years away from being resolved IMO.
I’ve never had the '70 or '71. I would imagine those would be perfectly ready to drink, and probably spectacular.

[RS_Beck]

'97 Monprivato is drinking really well right now. Give it several hours of air and it will come out of that hotel room and sing you some show tunes.

[David_Lobe]

Drank 2 of these tonight…
1st one…i stupidly did a double decant…oxidized
second bottle very nice but tight.
Agree…wait on these…and in my mind…NEVER decant

[John_Morris]

@David Lobe

Drank 2 of these tonight…
1st one…i stupidly did a double decant…oxidized

That shouldn’t be. I’ve had a number of double-decanted Monprivatos that were much older and survived with flying colors. Something wasn’t right about that bottle.