I went to a “Chardonnay Party” last night. This has become an annual event here among our little group of n’er do wells and brigands wherein we taste a large number of chardonnays, mostly domestic, from various vintages. The wines are opened and left on a table for people to sample at their leisure – we are not a formal crew. No votes are taken and, as often as not, we don’t talk much about the wines.
I can list some of the producers but none of the vintages or vineyard sources: Marcassin, Morlet, Peter Michael, Boillot, Aubert, Bjornstad, Blagdon, Peay, Konnsagaard (sp?) ‘The Judge,’ Hanzell, Moldanado, Scholium Project, and many others. (Curiously, the first bottle of Marcassin was corked. When a second was opened, it too was corked. That’s one hell of a price for bad wine.)
I am loath to write-off an entire variety based on a single annual tasting but, aside from the Blagden, none of these will alter my opinion that the best chard. in the world comes from Chablis. And the Blagden I liked mainly because it had a Chablis-like profile.
Fortunately, several reds were also opened:
In no particular order, a 2006 Delas, La Landonne was a textural masterpiece; a 1995 Hudelot-Noellet, RSV was graceful and a delight; a 1996 Long Meadow Ranch, Cab. (made by Cathy Corison) was brilliant; and a 1995 Caprai, Sagrantino 25 Anni was superb with steak after 12 hours of decanting. There were some other reds that weren’t as tasty, but there was still plenty to drink.
The hit of the night was each other; there is nothing like a good mix of various personalities to make such times both fun and memorable. And some very fine food makes it all the better.
It is instructive to see who is moved by a label and who is not. To witness a discerning palate next to one that thinks the Marcassin was “lovely,” even though it was corked. To hear opinions so diverse that one is left wondering at the ultimate subjectivity of the experience of wine tasting. I guess there really is room for everyone at the table.
I don’t go to many events where this much wine is open. Frankly, it’s too just much - for me. But with my trusty spit cup and the chance to see these people – dare I say, this family – I will make this a yearly appearance.
Best, Jim