Friday night TNs: Two from Sicily

WINE TALK
1

More accessible on the palate than the Faro, again red fruit, a hint of menthol, more elegant as well. A tannic touch on the back end, but this wine seems more “together” at this time.

  • 2010 Bonavita Faro - Italy, Sicily, Faro (3/21/2014)
    Slightly murky at the core, but generally translucent ruby on the rim - clearly darker in color than the Passopisciaro wines I have tried from Sicily. Very developed/complex nose, with black & red fruits, an almost “meatiness” as well, hints of smoke - a lot going on here.

Very sleek/linear on the palate, fruit framed by bright acidity, with a tannic bite to the finish. While the nose indicated secondary nuances, the palate is very primary. My first exposure to this producer, but this wine strikes me as one that will age effortlessly.

Posted from CellarTracker

2

Two of mine, Bob, and I would agree with your notes. I’m cellaring the Bonavita and drinking the Biondi.

3

Oliver, given that you are familiar with the wines, how do these age? I have a lot of experience with Nebbiolo & Sangiovese, but am really just starting to dip my toes into Sicily. Will the Biondi go much past ten years (and will the Bonavita be drinkable before 10 years)? And why is the Bonavita darker? Does Nerello Capuccio add color to the blend, or do they just extract more color from the skins (and is this darker coloration a characteristic of Faro)?

4

Years ago, we tasted and fell in love with a Faro from la Famiglia Bagni which never got to the US. It was the color of a tan grocery store bag, was 8 years old on release and perfumed for days. It was selling for the Lira equivalent of $10 at the cantina.

I hand carried a bottle back and took it to a blind tasting at Restaurant 2117 with a bunch or points guys and maybe Dan Fredman. It came in SECOND in a very heavy hitter lineup including 1st growth Bordeux, serious Rhone and maybe some Burgs.

When I told the guys that, IF we were ever able to get some to the US, it would retail for about $30, many of them got visibly offended that I brought such a “cheap” wine to the tasting, even though all but one of them went apeshit for it.

Fun night! [stirthepothal.gif] neener [snort.gif]

5

Biondi is from the south side of Etna, which tends to produce wines that are paler in color than the north side even though (in Biondi’s case) they contain the maximum 20% Nerello Cappucino, which adds color. But many varieties can produce pale red wines that age beautifully, and so far that’s been my experience with Etna. I tasted two older Etnas as part of a podcast once and thought they had both aged very well.

The Bonavita is from nearer Messina, off the volcano, and it includes 10% Nocera, which is said to add acidity. I haven’t had an older example but I would be amazed if the wines don’t age. As I recall the Faros from Palari are roughly similar in color, if vinified with more wood.

6

A Sunday afternoon “Day 2+” glass of the Bonavita - there is a smoked meat aspect to the nose that I find nicely complex, along with an appealing rusticity to the bouquet.

More integrated on the palate as well, with the only outlier at this point being a little “spikiness” or volatility to the acidity. I bought two other bottles, and they will both be set aside for several years before I check one out again.