My significantly better half is making Bucatini with clam sauce tonight, and it’s a Friday, so I figured I would grab something better than my normal weekday fare. I don’t know that I could pick a favorite here as the wines are quite different, but I am pleasantly surprised with just how well the Borgogno is showing.
1998 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barolo Riserva- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (7/29/2022)
This is fresher on the nose than the '98 Conterno I just tried, with some pretty clear tar notes behind the fruit.
More a mixture of black & red fruit on the palate than the red-fruited Conterno. This was also popped & poured, and now with some air, the red fruits are coming to the fore. This is drinking younger than the Conterno today, although the Conterno displays a little more nuance.
1998 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (7/29/2022)
Popped & poured - there is a hint of prune on the nose, maybe just the first sign of impending maderization.
Better on the palate, with good acidity, medium-bodied, nice persistence and primarily red/cherry fruit. I have been following this wine since it’s release, and although I have experienced some bottle variation over that time period, this has generally been a pretty enjoyable glass of wine.
Not Bob, but…
Our most recent experience with the 1998 Monprivato is that it needed coaxing upon opening, and became very good but not great with air. Good balance, but no special depth. Should’ve decanted longer. My sense with both Cascina Francia and Montprivato in 1998 is fairly significant bottle variation. The last Cascina Francia we had might have been our best yet, but it hasn’t been a straight line!
We might open a '98 Giacosa Santo Stefano soon, so hoping that others chime in regarding your question.
Regards,
Peter
Carl, sorry, nothing recent - the last time I had the Giacosa Falletto white label was February of last year. That night, I paired it with the Bartolo Mascarello, and I preferred the Mascarello, but as Peter indicates, over the years I’ve experienced bottle variation in the Cascina Francia, Bartolo and Monprivato from my cellar - and as we approach 25 years post-vintage, that’s probably to be expected.
I do have magnums of the Giacosa Asili that I will have to check out one of these days, as I’m curious to see where that is headed.
Thanks for the check-in on the Borgogno. My note is in there on CT about 6 years back when I felt it was just starting to show after I rushed it a restaurant one night. Haven’t popped one in a while and I know I have another one somewhere. Maybe time.
Your Fri night sounds great. Cheers.