Tram from Airport to Beaune makes logistical sensee. However, I would like to stop by two wine stores and my wife one shoe store… all three are generally close by to each other.
If it’s an Arche shoe store, my wife’s favorite , they have an outlet in Dijon (or did)
But I understand the tug. However , maybe that’s your last stop so you aren’t jetlagged in Pais and don’t have to lug everything around.
1 Like
If you’re driving from Paris, I would stop in Chablis for lunch/snack and then do a walk-in tasting at William Fevre. Ask some real wine questions and they’ll pour everything they have open.
Make a similar stop in Beaujolais on your way to Lyon.
You are definitely going into Paris. ![[wow.gif]](/uploads/db3686/original/2X/7/7d450e9830889c8943b674446a21b7254cad657e.gif "wow"){kind=small}
I like this better than the original plan. In burgundy, I’d plan on two domaine visits the first and last day, and 3 the middle day if you want to squeeze in 7. Consider a visit to the Caveau de Chassagne, and ask them for the best couple of red Chassagnes they have available. You won’t be disappointed.
Stop and see the Abbey of Cluny on your drive from Beaune to Lyon. Consider a visit at a Beaujolais producer, and dinner in one of the Beaojolais villages. Eric Texier is/was also north of Lyon, and an interesting visit.
Upon advice of Bill Nanson, will now (i) fly into Lyon, (ii) take traine to Beaune, and (iii) fly out out of Paris on my last day. This will put me into Beaune on weekdays, which will make for easier Domaine visits. Will also get me a dinner in Paris for my last evening (hotel and reservation here booked).
In Beaune, will do a hybrid of everyone’s advice: one day with just one winery, one day with 2-3 wineries, and one day with one winery + one of the underground Beaune tours (I think this is Bouchard/Drouhin).
Sincerely appreciative of everyone’s advice here. The big picture comments really helped me understand the trip better.
Nice!
Assume TGV from Dijon to Paris?
+1 on this. My wife and I visited the Fevre tasting room a few years ago, and once the guy that runs it (Alain?) heard that Fevre is one of our favorite producers he set up all sorts of verticals and horizontals to show us the differences between vineyards and vintages. It was an outstanding visit, and very memorable.
Ask nerdy questions. I can’t stress that enough. We were admittedly jet lagged when we walked in, but I could tell the guy at the tasting counter was thinking “great, more Americans.” Then we started asking about terroir and vintage characteristics, and he perked up immediately. My favorite was a 2014 Grand Cru Bougros that had been open for a week. It was still fabulously acidic!
Do you already have an appointment at Jamet’s? Because it will be VERY difficult if you don’t go through a guide or something.
Doesn’t hurt to try but don’t hold your breath.
If based in Lyon, don’t go to Cornas by car because the traffic is always horrible around Valence.
Alain
Well, you seem set on your goals, but there is a reason la France has been nurturing la douceur de vivre since the 18th century. And it is not coincidental that English needs four or five words to successfully translate the fullness of the meaning. Relax, visit one or two places a day (max!) and then take life easy.
If you are still looking for specific recommendations:
–One of the best perspectives for understanding the terrain is the footpath above the village of Chambolle Musigny. It is open to public access, and is marked as part of the pilgrim route (blue and yellow coquille St. Jacques). It climbs all the way behind the premier cru vineyards. It isn’t a difficult hike. You can combine it with lunch at either le Chambolle or Millésime, both can be recommended.
–Find an out-of-the-way village that looks charming and has a decent café or restaurant and absolutely no other call for tourists. It can still be done, even in Burgundy. Google maps is your friend. Hautes-Côtes de Beaune / Nuits is a good place to look.
–Le Terroir in Santenay is always reliable for a very good meal and an excellent list (with something of an emphasis on somewhat unknown (stateside) St. Aubin). Madame’s personality alone is worth the trip.
–If you want to break up the routine for an hour (you can do it in 30 minutes if you are already in Beaune), go see Van Der Weyden’s Last Judgement. There aren’t many masterpieces still in their original context. It is one of the truly great European paintings.
Seriously, avoid driving too much. The autoroute between Dijon and Paris is remarkably like southern Wisconsin, only longer. To paraphrase Marge Simpson, I can drive through southern Wisconsin at home.
1 Like
to be fair it’s 4 ‘words’ in french… and 3 in english (Sweetness of life)
but yes, great suggestions… the chambolle walk/hike is wonderful.
I have driven to Cornas by car from Lyon maybe thirty times.
Never had a problem, but I always exit at Tournon.
no, I meant douceur, doucement etc, which is a combination of softly, easily, lightly, comfortably, gentle, sweet, mild. All of those in one.
1 Like
I emailed the Domaine and got a friendly email back to reach out closer to my visit. They are closed on weekends and warned July is a busy month for them, so I’m not holding my breath. Hopefully I can drink Jamet in France cheaper than the $200 I paid for the 2019 vintage in the US! My New Years resolution was to “drink more Jamet” so I’m hoping to fulfill it in Lyon (and in practice ahead of my visit to Lyon).
I haven’t figured this out. I assume no car in Lyon. I’m not sure if I need a car in Beaune (but I’m hoping to avoid one). And then would TGV from Beaune to Paris, and not Dijon? (or did I mess that up?)
Good to know! I also want to visit Xavier Gerard.
Appreciate the advice. Truthfully, I would like to do more than 1 domaine a day as that’s the reason I am going out there (versus to sit back). Thankfully for this board and others I have readjusted my expectations for the trip and will be totally happy with 1 domaine a day. I am looking forward to the restaurants and trying some more matures burgs on lists for reasonable prices (if that sort of thing still exists!).
I sincerely appreciate these tips and they will both be followed!
Sadly, I am allergic to most whites (although a recent natural white seemed fine). I also don’t want to make any room in my gullet for Beaujolais on this trip… I’m hoping to keep it exclusively red burg and red rhone in the July heat 
Pulling your trip forward a week was also a very smart move. Bastille Day (Fete Nationale) is July 14th and is directionally France’s equivalent to the 4th of July. Depending on where you are, Paris can be a zoo to get around in at that time (near the Champs Elysees for the parade or near the Eiffel Tower at night for the fireworks show) and it’s really the start of the great summer shutdown/exodus to the countryside. You still see some places shut down the week before (there’s a whole debate over pre/post Bastille Day vacations if you’re living in Paris), but the shutdowns REALLY start ramping up the week after and the city becomes a wildly different place for the next six-ish weeks.
1 Like
If I can piggy back on this thread, does anybody have a recommendation on a place to stay in the Chablis area for two nights this July? We are already doing Beaune July 21-24, and we have two extra days before we head back to Paris for a flight out on July 27. Thanks.
Our group ate at le Chambolle a few years ago and it was excellent! Filled with locals is all I need to say.
Chris
1 Like