France '09 - Champagne, Burg, & the Rhone Valley

Travel, Wine Tourism, and Restaurants Forum
1

Just booked the second two weeks of July to France. We hoped to spend more time there, but that’s all we could swing this summer with Steve’s work schedule. Our first thoughts on itinerary will be as follows, but I would LOVE thoughts and suggestions from anyone who’s been to the places we want to visit.

We’ll fly into Paris, rent a car and drive to Reims. Then down through Burgundy, Beaujolais, and eventually to the Northern Rhone. Then back to Paris for 3-4 nights before we leave. Is this too ambitious an itinerary for a two week trip?

What we want to do is visit wineries. We absolutely do NOT care about Michelin starred restaurants: we’re far more interested in visiting farmers’ markets and eating at neighborhood bistros. So what wineries should we visit? And how do we make appointments?

We just started planning today, and all we have are plane tickets. Everything else is wide open.

2

I will be there a week prior to that, too bad, we could have had an offline.

3

Blah blah blah - I’m so awesome, I’m taking my 8th trip of this year, and I’m going to ‘Frahnce’ to hang out at fancy French wineries…

4

[gen_fro.gif]

I saw this and thought of you

5

Sounds about right for 2 weeks. I’ve done all that plus CdP in less than 3 weeks so you’re set.

Champagne region:
Hotel Champagne 30 r. E. Mercier. Tel. 33 (0)3 26 53 10 60
http://book.bestwestern.com/bestwestern/productInfo.do?sob=A46&suppressSSLPopup=true&propertyCode=93403" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

This is a Best Western. The price is right, rooms are clean. But not romantic at all. Champagne strikes me as an industrial town, each time I visit. The one place that removes that feel, and were I’d recommend you not only stay is…
http://www.labriqueterie.fr/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Also for dinner: Briqueterie. Tel. (0)3 26 59 99 99

Krug, Moet & Chandon and Veuve Cliquot. Each very different and worthwhile. I can email you my POCs there or get your local retailer to have their distributor/importer set you up.

Burgundy:
I guess I could write a medium-small book. Beautiful.

Stay at Le Cep
Tel : +33 (0)3 80 22 35 48 - Fax : +33 (0)3 80 22 76 80
eMail : resa@hotel-cep-beaune.com
27, rue Maufoux
21200 Beaune - FRANCE

You could stay at Bleu Marine, tel. 33 3 80 24 01 01. Fax 33 3 80 24 09 90.
Email is bleumarine.beaune@wanadoo.fr which is also nice but I like Le Cep because you can walk and you are right in the middle of it.

Places I’ve not stayed but have heard of:
Next best is the Poste. Very nice. prices 106 to 168 E. Tel. 33 3 80 22
08 11. Fax 33 3 80 24 19 71. Email francoise.stratigos@wanadoo.fr

Next try Hotel Mercure. Not as good a location. Tel. 33 3 80 22 22 00. Fax
3 33 80 22 91 74. Email: H1217@accor-hotels.com.

Dinners:
Ma Cuisine, people rave about it. I’ve always been left luke warm. So I’ve stopped going but as everyone but me seems to love it:

Le Jardin des Ramparts. Great place. Inventive food. Cozy.

Le Benaton, good but not memorable

L’Ecusson

Le Montrachet Luxury Puligny Montrachet Hotel | COMO Le Montrachet" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; which I loved. A bit out of town but worth the drive. It is where I go when everyone else goes to Ma Cuisine. The sommelier is top notch. They also run a hotel if you want to get out of town.

Never been but wanted to try:
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Wine Makers:
Trapet, Sauzet, Jadot, de Vogue, Daniel Rion, Drouhin. EAch with a slightly different approach from small producer to big industrialized deal. Also find your own favorite burg producers.

Rhone. Here I could write a HUGE book.
Hotel Clairfontaine
011-33-4-74-58-81-52 voice: 011-33-4-74-58-80-93 FAX
Hostellerie Marais Saint Jean, Chonas l"Amballon
Hotellerie Beau Rivage in Condrieu. hotel-beaurivage@wanadoo.fr. The tel. no is 33474568282
My favorite. YMMV.

Wineries:
Guigal, Chapoutier, Ogier, Jaboulet. Don’t forget to go to Vahlrona chocolate factory right across from Chapoutier. No tours but free samples!


Paris:

If you need recommendations I’ll type them out but it soundslike you’ve been to Paris before.

If you want a tourguide, I’ll do it for airfare and hotel. [d_sunny.gif]

6

Todd… [beee.gif]

Jeff… thank you! A friend of mine works for a distributor and just returned from three weeks in France, so I’m hoping he will be able to help me make appointments. Burgundy is the big challenge because the wines scare me and I generally avoid buying them. The Rhone will be easy because I know what I like and Ogier is near the top of that list. I hope to visit Faury, Jasmin, and Jamet as well. Hadn’t considered Guigal or Jaboulet, but those would be wonderful.

I’m saving your list so we can go through it one by one… I’m sure I’ll have questions as we do that. And no, I’ve never been to Paris. Somehow, with all the traveling we do, Paris has eluded me every time. Suggestions? We will probably skip the Louvre-- I plan to go back to Paris in year or so with my daughter, and I’ll see the Louvre with her. Steve and I are much more focused on stuff like where to get the best baguette, the best croissant, the best cheeses…

Oh, and while we’re generally more interested in neighborhood bistros than Michelin stars, do you (or anyone) know if the Michel Rostang truffle sandwich is available in summer?

Thanks again!

7

You suck…that is all.

8

Melissa…If you go to Beaune, you have to stay here. 1000000000 time better than Le Cep, rooms are gigantic (dont stay in the suite).

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For food, I would suggest he following:

Ma Cuisine - There is better food out there, but the wine list is great. - Beaune

Caveau des Arches - Beaune

Benaton - had a very nice lunch here - Beaune

Le Chassagne (In Chassagne-Montrachet)

Caves Madeline - Beaune

La Ruchotte - Not exactly sure where this is located (waiting on an email back)

La Cabotte - Located in Nuits Saint Georges

Chez Guy - Gevrey Chambertin

Tres Giraud - (Morey St. Denis?)

http://www.deuxpieces-cuisine.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; - Beaune



Bakery - Bouche

9

Holy QPR, Bow-man! Those rooms are only €110 a night! [thank_you.gif]

Added everything to the research list… thank you kindly!

10

Melissa…well worth it…Just on the ring road in Beaune, easy parking, gigantic rooms and gigantic showers (best that ive ever had in Burgundy , perhaps the best in France) 5 minute walk into Beaune, free wireless…

11

Compared to a lot of what I’ve seen so far, that’s quite cheap. What about wineries?

Also, since we’ve never tasted in France, we’re not sure what to expect. Are there tasting fees? Do you generally buy wine while you’re there?

12

Normally there are no tasting fees. When you taste in Burgundy you are normally tasting with the owner/winemaker etc…(do you speak French?) 99% of the wineries do not sell wine to tasters. There are some great wine stores there were you can get wine for your trip. Most places do NOT allow corkage, but it never hurts to ask, especially if you can speak French.

13

I am great with accents… and abysmal with languages. I always make the attempt-- I greet people in their own language and try to converse, but inevitably, people take pity on me and meet me halfway with whatever English they can muster. I have some French language tutorials, but I plan to focus on as much wine-related language as I can possibly memorize. Do the owners/winemakers speak any English, usually?

14

Just go with Voulez-vous coucher avec moi (ce soir)?

15

Some do and some don’t…its getting better (more speaking English, but still a ways to go). This might limit your tastings. Sounds like you have a bit of time to get stuff scheduled.

I would suggest to plan according to location, (Cote de Beaune, Cote de Nuits).

All of the Negociants speak or have people that speak English, there are some growers that can bridge the gap (Ponsot (perfect English)) but some cannot (Hudelot Noellat).

16

I left out Caveau des Arches and Benaton. Indeed both very nice. Thanks for the reminder.

In France you are normally a private guest of the winemaker/owner. This is not a Napa experience. This is being invited into their home. No fees, and I’ve rarely seen them sell wine. Weinbach did at our insistance, ditto Ogier. Trapet does sell and Chapoutier basically takes your credit card and gives you a bottle (ok that’s a bit exaggeration but they sell and make it clear you can buy from the retail shop). Literally imagine being in someone’s home when you get an invite to taste at their estate.

At Weinbach, for instance, they insisted I stay not only for lunch, but for dinner. In their kitchen, grandma cooking, wines from their personal cellar. I showed up abot 10AM, did the basic tour and talked wines, was invited for lunch, guess I was popular, and lunch ended about 4PM after which we talked about how my visit to France in general was, where I had been, where i was going. Grandma came back in the parlor and insisted I stay for dinner as I was there (still). Man oh man. Rare indeed, normally I expect about 1-3 hours depending on my familiarity with the domaine and my personal connection. Chapoutier maybe 30-60 minutes, Ogier (for me) 60-90 as I know Stephane, Trapet 15-45 as there is the language barrier, etc etc.

French is nice to have, get the Rosetta series. But basic courtesy, some English mixed with French (my French is pretty pathetic right now), smiles, and complements get you very very far. Offer to purchase, but don’t be surprised if that doesn’t go anywhere. Don’t press the issue, lest you come across as being rude. Ask if you can buy a bottle or 3, if so, great. If not be grateful for the tasting and hospitality. Make the appointment ahead of time. Confirm the day before (very important), and show up on time. Yes the French may have a different view of time than we do, but it is better to show up, wait a bit in the lobby or sitting room than to have them wondering if you are really showing. Remember you are a guest and they set aside time for you and you are literally in their home most times.

17

We’ve “spoken” about this trip before, I believe. I recall communicating with Steve on this as well, but I don’t recall much of what I told you both. Looks like a lot to do in 2 weeks to me, but, then, I’m not the one going.

If you happen to decide to go to Bordeaux for some reason, let me know. I will likely be in Bdx in early to mid June then onward to Spain. If not, I may be able to be in Paris in July when you and Steve are there. Anyway, Burgundy is just a few hours drive away.

N

p.s., By the way, I strongly suggest you not try renting one of those tiny cars w/o a built-in GPS and rent a separate GPS unit. The added rental of the GPS unit plus the gas you will waste gunning the tiny engine on the motorways to get to/maintain a decent speed will just even things out. I’m not saying you have to rent a benz, a Peugeot 406 that has a built in GPS and will do just fine.

18

Noel, I believe we asked you about Bordeaux a couple of years ago, but we ended up in BeNeLux instead of France. This time, we’re definitely going to France. Our tentative plan is to spend the last part of the trip in Paris. If you’ll be there at all during our stay (July 16-29), we’ll meet you wherever you’d like! Just send me a PM on Facebook whenever you know what your schedule will be.

Thanks for the advice on the car!

19

Anytime. I made a mistake of renting a tiny one last trip and:

    1. I spent the same because of the added gas and GPS rental; and,


    1. On top of that, I forgot to hide the GPS unit in Metz where my wife and I stopped for lunch on the way to Strasbourg, so someone smashed the window and stole the GPS unit.

Unfortunately, while insurance covered the smashed window, it didn’t cover the GPS unit for which I was charged an extra 700 Euros. This is not even to mention the headache of having to deal with small town police on a Sunday afternoon in Metz. What a hassle.

20

Noel, Steve asked me to ask you if a 1-series BMW with built-in GPS is okay, or if it will be underpowered. He wants to rent from Sixt, which doesn’t seem to have the Peugeot you mentioned.