Four French

2007 E. Vatan, Sancerre Clos la Néore:
With Chavrie cheese and pecan crackers this was in the pantheon of all time great pairings; the wine was popped and poured and though showing young and tight, it was quintessential Sancerre. Just terrific stuff.

2007 Dom. J. Chamonard, Morgon Clos de Lys:
Pure, clear fruit and obviously Morgon; initially tight in the mouth but opens with air and delivers a textbook rendition of its place in a balanced, stylish format. A couple of years should be good to this; it has the acidity and structure for the cellar. With grilled salmon (rare) and steamed veggies, perfect. 12.5% abv and about $25. (My first wine from this producer; thanks for the tip, Eric.)

1989 Lynch Bages:
For me, the best showing of this wine in the past 15 years – it was wonderful on release and then went green bell pepper all to hell – now, it is back with considerable complexity, attractive cedar accents, lots of fruit and a worsted texture that just carries me away. Shows differently from moment to moment in the glass but never gets unbalanced or less enjoyable. Not a heart-stopping 20 year old Bordeaux but very, very good.

2006 T. et P. Matrot, Volnay Santenots:
Not a delicate or elegant wine; rather it’s rich, sturdy, has excellent acidity and yet is still nuanced. This is what I expect from Santenots but it’s still showing young, especially on the nose which was quite closed and a little waxy. Served with a dish of beans, kale and sausage, it did well. Has a shelf life and, at 13% and $25, I’d say it is worth buying a couple – one for now and one (or more) for later.

Best, Jim

The last time I opened one of these, a few years ago, the wine was still shut down and not close to entering its drinking window yet. I think this is one of those classic Pauillacs that won’t be really accessible until age 25 and then will live for decades after that.

John,
FWIW, I saved a glass and went back to it about 7 hours later. It had noticeabley declined.
As I say, for whatever that might mean.
Best, Jim

Thanks very much for sharing your notes Jim. I’ve been curious about Chamonard Morgon and yours is the first TN I’ve ever seen. I assume you were referred by Eric Texier? Still need to try a Vatan Sancerre (Michel, Edmond or Andre).

RT

Richard,
Yes Eric T. spoke of the wine on Disorder in the same thread that he spoke about “noise” obscuring terroir. I found both the suggestion and his concept provacative.
Best, Jim