Five wines

1998 Couhins-Lurton, Bordeaux Blanc:
Once a wine that showcased its barrel treatment more than its fruit, this has morphed into a pleasant, albeit unexciting sauvignon blanc. While it was enjoyable with an orzo salad, it is not worth the time to wait for this result.

2007 Dönnhoff, Riesling (Qba A.P. 34 08):
Lacy, luminous wine that was the perfect match for beet salad with ricotta salada. Off-dry, some minerality and a really charming finish. Delicious.

2005 De Villaine, Bourgogne La Digoine:
When opened, pretty dry and thin but almost immediately this blossoms into one of the best, light-weight Burgundies I have had this year. Lovely floral and fruit aromas, an elegant delivery and flavors that are clean, pure and never step on each other. I could drink this any evening and be fully satisfied.

2002 Dom. Les Fines Graves (Jacky Janodet), Moulin à Vent:
Not rich but sappy fruit; pure, clean, almost hard edged and certainly showing young but the concentration and intensity are considerable as is the depth; grippy at mid-palate and in the finish, good complexity and balance. Tighter and more compact than Vissoux’s MaV, for example; has years to go to peak but is very good with sausages with a chard and bean ragu. Not for lighter fare.

1999 Prudittori de Barbaresco, Barbaresco:
Opens gradually in the glass and as it does the grip at mid-palate dissipates; with air, the fruit smells and flavors become nuanced and the structure integrates; a decade in bottle has been good to this wine. Clearly the nebbiolo variety, a sense of place, nice intensity and some secondary development. ‘Time to go in your cellar but, decanted, pretty fine now. Really good with pasta with grilled eggplant.

Best, Jim