Finishing off a Passive Wine Cellar

Good question, and honestly I was trying to remember exactly what I did as well.

I think I started with some adhesive (you could use spray, a good tape, the right kind of glue), and held it in place with clamps.

Then, I went to overkill mode. I used a long (4-5 inch?) heavy-duty structural screw, with a very large washer. You need to make sure the screw is the right length to go through your chosen amount of insulation, and a small amount through the door, but not too much. Obviously, it goes through the insulation like butter, and the metal door takes a bit of effort.

The washer keeps the screw from going too far into the insulation (and through the door). I believe you can see one in action in the photo I posted.

What direction does it face? I ask because mine is on the northwest corner of the house, and a deck shades part of the west side of the foundation wall, so Iā€™m hoping it stays a little lower than yours in the summer, though I wonā€™t lose sleep if itā€™s in the low 60s. Iā€™m at the edge of the Catskills, so the nights are pretty comfortable there in the summer, which should help.

Thanks for the pointers on the door. It is your typical outside door that has insulation in the core but as stated, a low R value.

Thought I havenā€™t completely conclude I will do this, the entrance to the wine room is off a large room. I am thinking of using the inlay of the door from the large room side to create a bookshelf that hides the cellar door. The door to cellar opens into the cellar and the bookcase would open into the large room.

I will have to determine how much space I have but I could place some additional insulation in the back part of the bookcase, hidden, to help give the door more R value. The only reason I was thinking about this strategy is the door is just your basic ugly looking panel door. So this basically hides that I have a wine cellar.

I went to a school in NYC that occupied a couple of older townhouses that had sub-basements (directly below the regular, normal depth basements), down in that sweet spot of constant ideal cellar temp shown in the Gold chart that John posted. If I was a millionaire thatā€™s what Iā€™d do, have the builders of my dream home excavate for a sub-basement.

Cool idea. I have thought about having a double door, since I shrank the wine space by moving a wall and still have the old framing there. Youā€™d let some air in each time you pass through, but it would be a good temperature barrier the rest of the time.

What material did you use on the walls and ceiling of your cellar?

Completing design on my cellar. What lights has everyone put in their cellar?

It is one thing I havenā€™t seen much discussion in the many cellar construction threads on the site.

use LEDs which give off no heat

Can LEDā€™s or track lighting?

Most sites that say no to track lighting are because of the heat they were known to put off. With LED bulbs now that seems to be solved and you can use them to highlight racks or just direct light. Anyone have any negatives to LED track lighting?

is the cellar for show or function? Do you want drama or visibility? My cellar is functional so my lighting is on the ceiling and for visibilityā€”but built before LEDs existed.

LED lights are great (either track or can), but they DO give off heat, just a lot less than incandescent.

There really is no better solution than LED, but for a passive cellar, you should not plan to leave the lights on all the time. It would materially raise the temperature.

Alan, I would say function over form but I want it to be nice enough that when entertaining and I bring guest in the cellar it shows well.

The light switch will be outside the room and donā€™t expect the light to be on except the minutes Iā€™m in there to grab a bottle or load bottles.

+1

The difference in actual wattage for the same light output (lumens) is pretty much directly correlated to the heat output, because most of the energy consumed by incandescent lights goes to heat, not light. So a 10W, 850 lumen LED light that is roughly equivalent in light output to a 75W incandescent bulb should produce about 13% the heat.

That said, a 10W LED light can still run at 87F, which in an enclosed wine room is enough to raise the temperature over time. Itā€™s the Suzie Homemaker Oven Principle (you can bake cupcakes with a lightbulb).

After some research going to use can lights with an adjustable gimble so I can aim the lights a little bit rather than shooting straight down.

Please post some pictures

My cellar is on the South basement wall - which may be why Iā€™m seeing the temp swing that I am. No more :slight_smile: with the forthcoming cooling unit.

I used FoamItGreen - a closed cell spray foam. Ended up with 2-3 inches on all surfaces except floor.

LEDā€™s can are installed. The LED fixture allows for the color temperature to be adjusted. Any suggestions? I have it on 3,000k which is a soft white. Donā€™t think I want the blue daylight look, but any reasons to go higher on the K scale?

I think it is pure preference. I would agree with you though, I would keep it at a warmer light (even 2,700 if that is an option). But again, I think it just depends on what you like.

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Mark, 2,700 is an option. It seemed a bit too yellow. But, Iā€™m still in rough framing so it may look better once racking is in.