EWG does "High End" Cabs at Church and State

Several months ago I proposed a tasting of “high end cabs” at Church and State. Some quick impressions, and hopefully others will be able to correct and flesh out my notes. We had the standard four course meal done on Sundays at Church and State, and the quality of all the courses was excellent.

To go with the soup:

2006 Ridge Monte Bello Chardonnay – On the leaner side of the spectrum, some steeliness, in need of some time, favored by those who like the style.

2004 Nealy Chardonnay – richer, but balanced, my favorite of the two.

2001 Trimbach Gewurztraminer Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre – Getting better as it ages, gorgeous nose, dry but rich, wonderful accompaniment to the soup.

2000 Zind Humbrecht Gewurztraminer Clos Windsbuhl – drier, more depth than the Trimbach, also excellent with the soup, noticeably long aftertaste. Probably prefer the Trimbach tonight, but it’s close.

I decided to do the younger Cabernets first, and then the older ones.

With the first course, which I expect to be an Alsatian styled tarte, but turned out to be a salad,:

2000 Peter Michael Les Pavots – strong acidity at first, settled down, balanced, lighter than the other wines of this flight.

2000 Pride Reserve – sweet fruit , throughout, which I liked, but I could see Jason Hagen cringing.

2001 Paul Hobbs Napa – my favorite of the flight; sweet fruit, but not at the level of the Pride, more balanced, drinking very well.

2004 Quilceda Creek – Surprisingly drinkable, with noticeable tanning in the background, but more forward than the 2001 Leslie brought to a tasting a couple of years ago.

With the main course, braised beef for most of us, but there was also a choice of salmon, duck, or vegetarian.

1978 Mondavi Reserve – Nice at first, smooth, light fruit, but faded quickly. This was not bought upon release.

1994 Dominus (my contribution) – This was my third time with this wine, and probably the best showing. Tobacco, chalkiness, balanced, should age for quite a while.

1995 Diamond Creek Volcanic Hill – Less fruit than the others, more acid, but worked well with the food. Might have been interesting to have had a combination of this and the Monavi.

1997 Shafer Hillside Select – My first taste of any Hillside Select, and I understand the acclaim this wine received. Dense, tremendous fruit, but balanced. Easily my Cabernet of the evening.

For dessert, ever generously David Miller supplied the 2001 d’Yquem. My first time with this vintage of d’Yquem, and now I understand. A nose with flavors that never end, amazing complexity, perfect balance, an epic wine. I suspect this will be my wine of the year.

David did a terrific job organizing last night. C & S is a great venue for us and after talking to the manager later on he seemed excited to host us again. I really enjoyed the wines. Thought the Monte Bello was the better of the Chards. Anything that says Zind and Windsbuhl makes me happy. My fav cabs, in no particular order, were the Mondavi, HSS, Pride, Hobbs & Dominus, but I thought all the wines were of a high level and well made. I’m learning to enjoy domestic cabs again and last night helped that effort.

FYI - the Neely was from the Spring Ridge Vineyard. It’s also a Santa Cruz AVA and made for a very nice contrast to the Ridge. Made by Varner and received a 95RP score. I’ve not really enjoyed Chards with RP scores in that range and this was no exception. The nose was full of Tropical, gooey fruit that screamed Malo. The palate was somewhat better, but this wine was nothing I would seek out and certainly is different than the Varner Bee Block I tried a while back.

Wonderful tasting. I enjoyed Church and State and I would say my Duck confit was as good as I have ever tasted.

  • 2006 Ridge Chardonnay Monte Bello - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
    Opened and decanted for about 30 minutes and returned to the bottle. Still very young but seems to hitting a sweet spot. Runs the gamut of complexity honeyed fruit, rocks, cream and flowers. Next to the Nealy it did show as a leaner wine but on its own I think I would consider this more of a middle weight. At least a light middle weight. Long finish. (93 pts.)
  • 2004 Varner Chardonnay Neely Spring Ridge Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
    A richer, heavier wine but not over the top. Nice acidity to balance things but may be a little soft to keep aging. This was a bigger contrast to the Ridge than I expected.
  • 2001 Trimbach Gewurztraminer Cuvée des Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre - France, Alsace, Alsace AOC
    Just noticed I had this about 18 months ago. Well this bottle had a more profound effect on me. For one this finish seems to be stretching out. This was one of the more memorable Gewurztraminers I have had. Explosive aromatics and great balance. I never got too much of one thing. Nice.
  • 2000 Zind-Humbrecht Gewurztraminer Clos Windsbuhl - France, Alsace, Hunawihr, Alsace AOC
    Where the Trimbach seemed to be firing on all cylinders this needed some time in the glass. At first I was concerned it would end up being flabby but this kept waking up. Seemed a bit like a sleeping giant. David mentioned “depth” and at first I wasn’t getting that. By the last sip I would concur.

The Lumber Yard
At first I thought this flight might leave me wanting but I actually really enjoyed it. Not really my preferred style but it created a great balance for the evening.

  • 2000 Pride Mountain Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve - USA, California, Napa Valley
    Seems to be in a good place right now. For me these wines to come off monolithic when young but really don’t have the stuffing to go beyond 10 or 15 years. This wine does still have lots of sweet fruit but it also has a nice acidity to keep it from being cloying. Actually it seems like some of the sweetness is from the oak. This is tasty stuff.
  • 2001 Paul Hobbs Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley - USA, California, Napa Valley
    Seemed like others enjoyed this more than me. Although it had the oak to match the other wines, it had a very different profile. I will say this one felt and tasted like Cab to me. Less ripe and none of the candied fruit. I probably would have enjoyed this more if it was on its own and over a meal. Noticeably more tannin than the other wines.
  • 2004 Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley
    This did see some airtime which seemed to get it to a place where it was open for business. Lots of sweet red fruit dressed in oak. Very enjoyable but can’t be considered great unless some complexity comes its way. Right now it is fairly big and very fruity. Lots of stuffing. I hope it has the right structure to emerge in 15 years as something special. (91 pts.)
  • 2000 Peter Michael Les Pavots - USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
    Drinking well right now. I would probably not age it much longer and my experience with these wines is that when the fruit fades, your left with something ugly. At the moment the fruit seems in balance with the oak and earthy elements.


  • 1978 Robert Mondavi Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve - USA, California, Napa Valley
    Although the nose was showing the wines age with some mocha earthy elements, the palate seemed very fresh. Still lots of red berry fruit and great acidity. I loved the balance of the acidity. Cleaned your mouth of nicely. I do agree that later in the evening the wine seemed to fall off. Hard to say since we had had a lot of wines at this stage.
  • 1994 Dominus Estate Napanook Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley
    I think it had been years since I had tasted a Dominus, now I have had the 94 twice in a month. I will give Dominus props for creating distinct wines. They have a musky earthiness like no other. Such a contrast to most of the other cabs that leaned heavily toward ripe fruit. Not to say this wine doesn’t have ripe fruit. This is not a lean wine. I did think the bottle I tasted a few weeks ago showed better purity.
  • 1995 Diamond Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Volcanic Hill - USA, California, Napa Valley, Diamond Mountain
    This worked well with the food and I may have enjoyed it more on its own. After each sip, I just thought the wine was a little vacant. Did not have the concentration of the other wines at the table.
  • 1997 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select - USA, California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District
    Back to a big sweetie. Amazing that this is 13 years old. The fruit is so fresh and easily stands up to its oak clothing. Nice balance and not too heavy. I have only tasted a few Hillside Selects but they seem amazingly consistent. So much concentration and no unlikable flavors. Would I pick it is Cab. No. We were served a bottle blind last month and I don’t recall anyone picking cab. I thought it was young Cali syrah.


  • 2001 Château d’Yquem - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
    Oh my word. This was outrageous. Obviously this will be around for a long time but it is drinking so well right now. This is a wine you can just keep drinking. Having all that sweetness with no cloying elements. Wow!

I would say my Wines of the Night would be, Ridge, Trimbach and probably the Mondavi. Of course that is because we exclude d’Yquem from the voting since that aint a fair fight.

Cheers,

Jason

Posted from CellarTracker

Sorry I missed this one. Would have loved to have tried that Dominus and I have yet to try the 01 Yquem! Good to see EWG having another great night.

Cris:

Hard to explain how great the d’Yquem was. I went away thinking that it wasn’t worth paying over $100 for most of the Cabs but that it was worth paying $600 for the d’Yquem (not that I’m going to do that). But the next time I see a sale in tenths, I might just pull the trigger.

David

Ditto. This might have been the best d’Yquem I have ever tasted.

Jason