Evening Land?

WINE TALK
1

Can someone explain why everyone is up in arms over the new owners of Seven Springs?

I know a bit of the back story but must be missing something.

2

They basically took one of Oregon’s best vineyards and made a mockery out of it. Gone are great producers like Evesham Wood, St. Innocent, Bethel Heights, and Penner Ash to name a few.

Here is an offer from a retailer I got a few days ago. Make up your own mind.


New Releases from Evening Lands: New Benchmark-Quality Oregon Wines

Greetings!

I’m thrilled to be able to announce the availability of the new wines
from the Evening Lands project. The three Oregon pinots and a
chardonnay display an extraordinary level of quality that make this
project the most exciting thing to come around in a long time. They
are not inexpensive, but everyone who loves Oregon pinot should dig
deep for a few bottles. It’s worth it.

Evening Lands is a project of Hollywood producer Mark Tarlov. He has
acquired vineyards in California and Oregon and hired exceptional
winemakers to produce the finest wines possible from each site. I
know that sounds trite, and indeed some such lofty projects produce
wines that are an oaky, overpriced mess. Read on. For the Oregon side
of Evening Lands, Tarlov secured the services of Dominique Lafon,
winemaker at the famed Domaine des Comtes Lafon in Burgundy.
Dominique makes a focused, intense, soil-driven style of traditional
Burgundy that is in high demand across the globe. Making an oaky mess
was never even considered.

In Oregon, Tarlov secured a long-term lease (VERY long) of the
venerable Seven Springs vineyard, to the consternation of various
producers whose portfolios relied on the Seven Springs fruit. While
the fruit is prized by winemakers, it has at times been known as
challenging fruit to work with. Acquisition of the fruit was more
arduous in recent years as a divorce resulted in the vineyard being
split into two pieces, Seven Springs and Anden.

The halves now reunited, Tarlov’s team meticulously mapped the soils
and clones of the vineyard to produce a detailed picture of exactly
what was what - it’s quite a jumble of soil types and vines planted
at different times with different clones and rootstocks. After a bit
of vineyard rehab, the grapes from 2007 were fermented with
indigenous yeast in individual lots, blended carefully, etc. - all
the good techniques used to make great pinot noir.

With Lafon consulting and winemaker Isabelle Meunier on the ground,
the result is a set of wines that would be tremendous from any
vintage, and that particularly stand out among Oregon’s 2007
bottlings. It’s a vineyard we all thought we knew well, redefined,
and a fusion of Oregonian and Burgundian sensibilities that is unique
here. I consider them must-try wines for true fans of Oregon wine.
You will not be disappointed.

To summarize, this new portfolio from Evening Lands is the most
exciting new set of wines I’ve had from Oregon in a long time. The
products are a unique fusion of Oregonian and Burgundian
sensibilities, the quality transcends the 2007 vintage, and the price
points, aggressive as they are, seem reasonable once I tried the
wine. I strongly encourage everyone to grab a few of these bottles
while they are still available.

2007 Seven Springs Vineyard Pinot Noir “Summun”
$158 per bottle
81.5 cases bottled
The pinnacle of the Evening Lands pinot portfolio, and made in large
proportion from self-rooted, old-vine Pommard clone located at the
top of the hill (the name is ‘summit’ in French). The wine possesses
an extraordinary and suave texture, intense minerality married to
piercing and pure fruit flavors, and a remarkable finish that seemed
to never end. The wine simply drenches the palate, while remaining
exquisitely balanced, and the intensity belies what you think you
know of the '07 vintage. Although it was aged in 60% new French oak,
there is no discernable toast here. The layers of complex flavors
come in waves, on and on. I realize I’m gushing here, but I really,
really liked this wine. It’s the most exciting new Oregon wine I’ve
tried in a long time.

I warned the producer that the price would be an impediment in this
economy. That said, I strongly encourage you to spend the money and
try this wine. Fully approachable now, it has the depth and balance
to age well. NOTE Reserve Club members will receive one bottle of
this great wine. Also, supplies are obviously quite limited.

2007 Seven Springs Vineyard Pinot Noir “La Source”
$98 per bottle
308 cases bottled

A blend of Pommard and various Dijon Clones, this wine exhibits the
more rambunctious style of pinot noir, with sweet and sappy dark red
fruit wrapped in an richly textured package. Thanks to the strong
streak of mineral flavor and some bright acidity, however, this wine
never veers out of control and remains fresh, pure and complex on the
palate. Again, the finish is superb as is the overall balance. There
is no hint whatsoever of '07 “lightness” in this wine, just some
great fruit with a Burgundian soul that walks beautifully bridges New
World style and Traditional. Drinkable now, with plenty in reserve
for the cellar.

2007 Seven Springs Vineyard Pinot Noir “Estate”
$48 per bottle
1,590 cases made

This is of a style lovers of the Seven Springs vineyard will
recognize. It has intense, dark fruit with a bit of brambly
character, a hint of ripe tannin and the all-important minerality.
It’s a terroir driven wine equal to the best of the '07 vintage that
I’ve had so far, and priced in the same ballpark. It shares the
Burgundian sensibilities of Evening Lands more lofty wines, and
exhibits the same overall high quality. Approachable now, a couple of
more months in the bottle will only smooth out the youthful edges.
NOTE: This will be a World Class Club selection for June.

2007 Seven Springs Vineyard Chardonnay “La Source”
$98 per bottle
129 cases made

I know, don’t even start with me. Oregon chardonnay, particularly at
this price level? Don’t think Oregon. Think: Puligny Montrachet made
by Dominique Lafon. Only 12.8% alcohol with a low pH, this wine has
a stunning palate of crisp green apples, minerals and citrus balanced
with piercing acidity. It was oak barrel fermented – there is a hint
of creaminess on the palate – but it’s NOT an oaky chardonnay by
any means. The finish lingers for long seconds. There are a handful
of excellent, expensive chardonnay in Oregon - Eyrie’s top bottling
is awesome, but more oak-flavored and voluptuous, and Domaine Serene
has come close to this style. But I’ve had nothing like this before,
and it’s gorgeous. Once again, you should give it a whirl.

3

Pretty freakin’ pricey if you ask me.

4

Nate,

I think it’s a combination of how the sale went down, which basically yanked it out from under people who had looked out for the owners of Seven Springs and Anden when they were going through some difficult times, and the silly pricing.

5

Yeah, the back story I had heard was how some local folks had cared for the vineyard when the owner died suddenly and only had children too young to care for it. Great story, much like when Michael Bonaccorsi died. Shows how communal good wine folk can be.

Next I heard, someone had leased the vineyard. My first thought was: “great! family keeps the vineyard”.

I never connected how everyone else had become so upset about it all. Is it just that they are not selling fruit any longer? Contracts not honored and contract-holders told to get f-ed?

Phil, I love how 15 years is described in the email as a “VERY long term” lease.

6

I guess Mssr Lafon never described typical lease arrangements in Burgundy to the author. hehe

7

Talk about getting off on the wrong foot. Not only do they have to overcome a bad economy, they also have to worry about the bad publicity surrounding their releases and really high price points. Good luck on that. I wonder how they are doing?

8

There is a great post from Mark Vlossak of St. Innocent on the E-Bob board explaining what went down around the time that all the Oregon folks lost the lease. Also there is info on the St I website if you want some of the detail behind it.

Basically the whole thing just stinks when you were used to enjoying several different bottlings of $30-$50 dollar wines from many different producers and now none of those producers have accesss to that fruit anymore and the folks who do are charging $50 to $150 and naming it shit like “La Source” and “Summa Cumme Laude” or whatever.

I’d rather spend my money continuing to support Evesham Wood, St. Innocent, Bethel Heights, etc . . .

That’s just me though . . . will have to see how EL does with this venture. Personally I hope they fall flat on thier face, vindictive as that is . . .

9

Can you link to where the post is?

10

i want a handy with the wine @ these prices!

11

Nate,

Here is some good info:

http://www.stinnocentwine.com/NewFiles/winemaker7.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Cheers,

12

Thanks, bud. Just what I was looking for.

13

Thanks for the link Phil…and while I’m at it, those are some GOOD looking guys in your avatar!

14

Especially the one on your right. [gheyfight.gif]

15

Phil, I’d like to see you when your 53. Punk… [berserker.gif]

16

Is this a new Todd Anderson project?

17

I guess they are doing better than I thought. Their 2007 Seven Springs Summum PN that retails for $150 is sold out. At that price, I would go for burgundy although I do like PNs from Seven Springs but not at $150.

18

Burgundy is a slam dunk choice @ that price point.

19

The Chard is the only wine that I really want to taste.

20

Curiosity killed me on this one. I ordered some Gamay and Chard for the list. I’ll try out the Gamay in the next few weeks to get an idea. I now I’ll find a buyer for the Chard this summer.