A couple of beauties from the Vigna Rionda vineyard.
2018 Giovanni Rosso Langhe Nebbiolo Ester Canale Rosso: Very pretty fruit aromas and flavours. Cherry and spiced plums abound. It is full, rich and silky with outstanding presence and a long and expansive finish.
2017 Giovanni Rosso Barolo Ester Canale Rosso Vigna Rionda: Rose petal central on the nose. So elegant, perfumed and balanced. The palate has waves of fragrant fruits. It has intensity, power and richness without an excess weight. It builds through the palate and is so complex and sensual. Brilliant wine!
What a patch of land. I was there with Davide Rosso when they pulled many of the old vines, and admittedly the vineyards did look ragged, pretty sparsely populated with vines, but what ethereal juice did they produce. I wondered then what the new vineyards, Davide’s as well as Sergio Germano’s and Guido Porro’s might produce. Now that we have some wine in the bottle with a few years on it, the majesty of the vineyard completely reveals itself, but those old vines deivered, and in the case of the Ester Canale Barolo, continue to deliver something no one else can touch.
I took one of the pulled out vines as a memento. It’s still carries some of Vigna Rionda on it’s roots. Magic stuff.
This is so cool to read & learn about. I snagged two bottles of the 2016 Giovanni Rosso Barolo Ester Canale Rosso Vigna Rionda as a “splurge” over time. While I’m sure these wines can easily go 20-50+ years. I’m curious to hear where the “sweet spot” is for those that know & taste the wine often.
Davide Rosso has the only Canale vines, that patch of old vines at the top of the parcel that he did not pull out. Porro and Germano both ripped out all the old vines to replant, so there is the question of old vs young vines at play as well as the admittedly relatively minor soil/exposition/and temperature differences that account for the difference between these producers. At this point I believe it’s all about the old vines which are giving the Ester Canale wines their profound nature and distinguishing them for the other producers of the vineyard.
I think Rosso’s vines are the only ones left that were used by Bruno Giacosa for his Rionda Barolo…that’s probably the main reason why Rosso has been able to so aggressively price his wines from Vigna Rionda.
Thank you Gregory!
Can imagine that the old vines makes all the difference, even more so in less than perfect vintages.
Hopefully Porro and Germano (as well as Rosso for the other replanted plot) did a massal selection for the replanting.
I am dreaming of a Vigna Rionda horizontal with all above mentioned, Odderos, Massolino, Pira and whoever else I might be missing on
Thanks, Jeremy, Greg et al. Cool thread!
Funny … I think of Giovanni Rosso, e.g. Barolo Cerretta, as delivering fabulous QPR. This wine, and the dirt in comes from, sounds like a whole other category.