Great news! Pizzamarole’s Dan Pearson is opening O.O.B.A.T.Z, a brick and mortar pizza restaurant, with Le Rigmarole. Pizzamarole was one of our favorite change of pace dinner spots while the folks at Le Rigmarole were attending to their new baby.
Instagram’s embed is fubar at the moment.
Can you access the full wine list at Tour de Argent when just going for drinks? If so how is the setup?
Yep! And order cheese. The two best parts of Tour d’ Argent! They open at 9 am you just walk in. I have to be the only person in the world who drank at Tour d’ Argent and The Four Horsemen on the same day!
Will be there week after next!
I’ve swam in the Atlantic and Pacific oceans in the same day, but your feat is decidedly more impressive.
You can access the full restaurant wine list in the ground-floor bar and in the restaurant: you can’t access it on the rooftop terrasse - they have a separate list there.
Thanks for the help! I guess basement bar it is!
Touched down in Paris to pouring rain and the worst traffic I have ever seen in Paris*. We were famished but dinner was only a few hours away so we headed to Urfa Durum. It was super fast, very good and just what we needed. I don’t think I would go out of my way to come back here and stand in line but it was perfect for what we needed.
Dinner was Le Cheval d’Or. For those that don’t know Luis Andrade former chef of clown bar, his partner Crislaine Medina formerly of Rigmarole, Hanz Gueco former Chef of Ellsworth / Verjus and Nadim Smair formerly of David Toutain all combined to take over the space. It is absolutely wonderful. More serious than the prior iteration but it really works. I will try to post pictures later.
After dinner we sent word ahead to Bambino that we were coming in and we might want to jump on the turntables. Little did they know what was in store… I started with Skinny Pablo, then Wild Child played two incredible sets we bounced back and forth and then spontaneously Madlib fresh off playing for 30,000 people the day before jumped in and played his first vinyl set in 20 or so years. I hope the 40 or so people there appreciated as much as I did what they witnessed.
What a night…
*back to the traffic Paris is an absolute mess. The city has certain areas closed off to prepare for the Olympics and it takes 3x as long to get anywhere.
Thanks for the heads-up about the traffic! Coming in not too long.
And sounds like a good night!
Lunch at Les Enfants du Marche was wonderful. The Tempura Sardines were perfect. They whipped up a light squid dish on the spot that was great.
That’s good to know. Headed there in a few weeks and had planned to try to stay within walking distance or a metro+walk for meals.
We are going later in Sept than usual this year on the advice of friends and the owner of ‘our’ apartment. They expect the disruptions to continue past the Olympics, as the Olympics will force ‘normal’ Paris visitation patterns to the periods both before and after.
I think I mentioned that Thai Toutain told us that they would close and decamp from Paris during the Olympics, in addition to their normal August closure. I suspect that they won’t be alone.
Had an absolutely lovely meal at Bistrot des Tournelles. Fresh vibrant salads. Classic main courses. I had the Cordon Bleu. Others had pork, steak and roast chicken. Everyone was extremely happy. We hit a natural wine trifecta with a Belluard, Ganevat Chard and Metras - all were drinking excellent. I have known proprietor Eduardo for many years as he used to own L’Entree des Artistes and is involved in Music as a co-founder of the Jaw Family.
If you are looking for a classic bistro with modern flare I can’t recommend this more highly.
Decided to try Le Mazenay based on the mention here and on Paris by Mouth. It was nice to be in a restaurant without any tourists. It seems like a true locals type spot. The food was very good. One word of caution the wine list on their website is out of date. They were out of all of the Ravenau on the list presented except the village level which was 190 euros. We ordered a 2017 and it was perfect with the food. The list is nice but priced correctly, I did not see any deals. Interestingly they price Dauvissat higher than Ravenau. I would not go there solely for wine as the Paris by Mouth article and probably this thread has depleted the deals.
We followed lunch with lunch #2 at Les Enfants du Marche and were treated to some off menu items. Half the place was filled with NYers.
While hanging out at Les Enfants we met the owner of L’Attache who was there with a mutual NY friend. He offered to open his restaurant so we could drink Selosse. So we headed over and drank a beautiful Selosse Rose in the pouring rain, it was just perfect! I look forward to going back for the food.
We finished at La Cave Paul Bert. I am just so happy that this is open. The food was fresh and simple. Absolutely perfect for a wine bar type meal. They also had one German riesling (Seckinger) which I desperately needed! Bertrand greeted us upon arrival and sent over a stunning sea urchin platter from the Bistro Paul Bert.
Love it when lunch in Paris starts at 12:30 and ends at 10 PM!
Lunch starting at 12:30 and ending at 10pm? I call that linner.
Lupper? 
Traffic continues to be insane!
We had an incredible lunch at Septime. I just absolutely love the simplicity of their cooking.
I can’t imagine wanting to use a meal slot for Pizza in Paris, nonetheless, I have been very intrigued by the Pizza pop up at Le Rigmarole and wanted to try their new permanent restaurant Oobatz. And wow is it great. The pizza maker started as a bread baker and has never worked in a restaurant. It is a true collaboration with the Le Rigmarole where they are helping him with everything from how to run the restaurant to sourcing and preparing the best toppings for the pizza. A duck ragu pizza was incredible. The wine list is all natural but with some interesting choices. Can’t believe I am writing this but we will definitely be going back.
We then headed to Centre Culturel for a quick interlude. Nice lively wine bar from the Chambre Noir crew. Warms my heart to see so much German wine.
BTW - many of the current generation of somms in Paris are in love with German wine. We drank an excellent Seckinger Chard at Septime, Vetter Silvaner at Oobatz and Centre Culturel has a deep German section.
We finished the night off at new friends L’Attache and were treated to several beautiful bottles of Labat and Selosse. Had one dish, a beautiful raw tuna dish, that makes me want to go back for the food.
Quick Paris recap. The traffic really is insane and given that it rained every day it was even worse. However nothing can ruin Paris we had an absolutely incredible trip, met lots of extremely interesting people, ate and drank well.
Les Enfants du Marché - Ate here three times and could have easily gone more. I am not sure if I can love it much more. The Sardines Tempura was one of the dishes of the week. They invited us to a private lunch they did for none other than Alain Ducasse but sadly we had prior plans. If I lived in Paris I would go here 2-4x per week.
Septime - Absolutely perfect and just the way we like to eat. A German Chard was a wonderful wine for the entire meal.
Le Mazeney - Nice meal but the steals on the list are picked over. Still a good list but don’t go there solely to drink underpriced Ravenau.
Le Chateaubriand - Lovely, lovely lunch. Based on many conversations over the week many people feel Chef Inaki is not inolved and is only focused on his new Basque restaurant. That is not true he is still very much involved and was there during our lunch (see below). The most important restaurant to us and a common thread amongst our Paris experiences over the last 15 years.
La Cave Paul Bert - If you want a lite meal with lots of vegetables and a nice glass of wine and you don’t mind squeezing in. This is the spot! Bertrand sent us over a plate of fresh uni from the Bistro that was mind-blowing. The current Chef is only scheduled to be through end of July.
Cheval d’ Or - This was an incredible meal and one of the highlights of the trip. The new team is trying to take service and the food up a notch or two and they have succeeded. I think they are going for a Michelin star.
Delicatessen Cave - We had a few bottles of wine here purchased at the cave, they add 40% if you want to drink there. The starting price is pretty reasonable. Drank some hipster Burgundies that are 4x the price in the U.S. before the 40%. We will definitely be going back. Did not try the food.
Dreaming Man - Excellent coffee and love the vibe here.
L’Attache Paris - This is an indutry hang out space. We drank here twice and sampled the food. I will be making a reservation for dinner on our next trip.
Restaurant A.T - What more can I say. I love the restaurant and Chef Atsushi. One of the best tasting menu experiences in Paris. They should easily have two stars.
Oobatz - Never thought I would say this but I loved the Pizza and overall experience here. We will definitely be going back and that is high praise for a Pizza spot in Paris. For those that don’t know this is from the Le Rigmarole team.
Bistro Tournelle - Outstanding meal. We needed one authentic type Bistro for friends who we took to Cheval d’ Or and this was just perfect. Eduardo has a long history in the music business and it was great to Reminiscence with my dining companions who had visited his prior place with none other than MF Doom!
Bambino - my home away from home for late night (after 10 pm). On Monday our group did an impromptu DJ set that within hours starting spreading around Paris and is already legendary!
Some places we did not hit but are on our radar:
Cendrillon Belleville
Restaurant Lao Siam (19th) - Industry friends are raving about this spot!
Carboni’s (3rd) - The pasta looks incredible. Friends said it was but also the most rich pasta they have ever eaten. I still want to try a dish or two.
Tarantula - My friend Maniu is opening a Mexican restaurant in September and it is going to be great based on what I know.
Hope this helps future visitors to my favorite city in the world!
Thanks for the rundown.
I’ve been shopping Delicatessen for lord knows how many years. Must be 10 or more now. Good spot.
The whole Paul Bert lineup is really impressive for the excellence and consistency through many chefs. Not easy at all to achieve that.
Any idea of Cendrillon has any connection to the old NY place of the same name?
I do not.
