Thanks. I’ve wondered where he ended up.
Can we get advance notice next time so I can book a flight ASAP ![]()
With all the eating out you do, how do you find time to cook?
He is blessed with an amazing wife, who is a terrific cook!
Very true! The chickens were discovered when she cooked a Thanksgiving dinner a few years ago.
Yes, I visited Beaune in August and noticed that Le Comptoir de Tontons, a wine shop, had Wasenhaus in stock.
Speaking of Beaune, we had a delicious meal at Crème. I went there with a friend the summer before last, and we enjoyed our meal.
By my count we have either had a bite or meal at approximately 35 restaurants on this trip. Shockingly it has not been as torturous as that might sound. We are pros and know how to not overdue it whilst still enjoying. Yes of course we have been stuffed a couple of times but not much. Today’s restaurant, Ebene, came on my radar through my normal sussing but in all honestly after 35 restaurants I was not that excited about it. Sounded intriguing a young couple who met at L’Arpege opened a small 16 restaurant in the 15th. I had heard some very positive reviews from people with serious culinary credentials. In most any normal situation I would have been really excited but not so today. You have three options a la carte or two different tasting menus. They were extremely flexible and let us do a la carte with a few selections from each of the two different tasting menus.
Well after the first few small plates we were absolutely overjoyed that we came. I love discovering a restaurant / Chef in the early phase of their career. I could see that Chef Jihyun Kim was personally preparing every single dish that came out of the kitchen. She had a helper but he was clearly only assisting. Her partner Simon Plantrou manages the FOH and in a refreshing change of pace wears a dapper double breasted suit despite the casual nature of the restaurant. I absolutely love Chef Kim’s cooking (that is her behind the flower in the photo). Her cooking is confident, flawless with a subtle light touch with intense ingredients. Her L’Arpege training is evident but her own imprint is also readily apparent. Stunning meal. We can’t wait to go back.
And in a wonderful random coincidence we are having dinner tonight at Septime. Today we learned that Chef Kim began her Paris career with a stage at Septime and of course like her, Chef Bertrand trained at L’Arpege…and yes this meal reminded us of our early meals at Septime! The universe works in mysterious ways….
I booked Ebene last week for later this month. Very much looking forward to it after reading your notes.
As you can see we really enjoyed it. They are quite flexible with the menu which is something I am noticing on this trip…à la carte, small tasting menu, large tasting menu. We asked for a vegetable dish, no problem. This is really a welcome change that I wish NYC would follow.
Glad to hear about a chocolatier. Any other favorites?
Jaques Genin in the Marais. A chef told me that Jacques Genin’s daughter opened a very good shop (Jade Genin), it is in the 2nd.
Her chocolate was fantastic!
I’m still partial to the bars at Patrick Roger but the Jade Genin pyramids were excellent.
Meg Zimbeck (Paris by Mouth) raved about Ébène in a recent article.
Pétard has an excellent German Riesling selection.
I’ll add these to my list (currently)
Hevin
Cluziel
Herme
and Edvart
(all in the first)
We have been going to Septime since the beginning. It is a very special and important restaurant to us as well as the Paris dining scene. It’s influence is immeasurable. The passing of Chef Bertrand Grébaut hit Paris hard. Very hard. And not just Paris the global culinary world. We went into our meal with heavy hearts and not knowing what to expect. Upon arrival we were immediately greeted by one of the longtime waiters who simply said welcome home. The first dish set the tone it was a welcoming explosion of bright colors and simple, pure fresh vegetables. It announced tonight is going to a joyous, life-affirming, celebration of Chef Bertrand. The meal was flawless. The attention-to-detail is evident. The creative combinations of flavors paired with exceptional ingredients. A surprise Chicken dish was the most flavorful piece of chicken I have ever had. The meal was pure Septime which to us is understated, subtle perfection. Yet our meal had surprising elements, like the Tostada served alongside the seafood dish or the rose in the tomatoes, that pointed more to the future than the past…
The kitchen is clearly working as hard as they can to let guests both past and present know that they are still one of the most exciting restaurants in the world.
And as we told them they are and Chef Bertrand would be so proud…
Still going strong!!! Lunch today was at Bittikesu. A tasting menu by two chefs from Quebec that have worked at Noma and 108 in Copenhagen. The space is beautiful and has a minimalist decor that is our vibe. The first few dishes felt a little derivative and not to sound jaded but similar to so many tasting menus we have had. Shiso leaf - check! Japanese pottery - check! Once we got over that and were wowed by dish after dish including a stunning stingray dish we just settled in and enjoyed a wonderful meal. Perfect amount of food. And it was great to see out friend Tibo a somm we have known for many years who has worked at Ten Bells NY, Noma, 108, Kadeau, Le Doyenne etc. he is helping out the Chefs at Bittikesu.
After lunch we hit Tanat one of the top coffee spots and it was excellent and maybe our #1 coffee of the trip. We were very close to Les Enfants du Marche and separation anxiety is starting to set in so I convinced R to let me say hello and have a quick snack…or fourth visit this trip!
Aforementioned snack at Les Enfants du Marche! We have had a different version of the dish on each of four visits this trip.
And they do lunch! I have an open lunch slot.





























