Eating and Drinking in Paris

I’m not a subscriber so can’t read the review, but some colleagues took me to L’Arret last week and I thought it was a solid lunch option. Didn’t seem particularly Southern, other than the decor, and a few touches (like cornbread stuffing that had French people at the adjoining tables going to their googletranslate to understand). And that ‘cornbread stuffing’ was pretty unrecognizeable to an American, as it came in the form of two crispy sticks. I suppose there was also mushrooms and grits. But otherwise it was a weird melange of French and global influences, which perhaps is a line of critique. I took the poisson du jour, which was a ceviche of some sorts. Nothing memorable or worth traveling for, but interesting and a solid neighborhood lunch option. Maybe they’ve tweaked things over the past months. You could do worse in Paris.

Of course lots of other fun gastronomy while in town. On the restaurant front, my first time at Le Villaret was good, my dining companion suggested it was an off day for the cooking, but the wine list is great and the cheese plateau was a dream for this American.

I enjoyed the food more at Erso, creative well-executed modern bistro food. The “jardin d’hiver” starter was a great way to be playful with sometimes-stodgy winter vegetables. And the dessert variations on kiwi brought excitement to that fruit, especially with a clear and vibrant kiwi sorbet.

Maybe not a destination restaurant, but eating Soupe de Poisson de Roche with remarkable depth of flavor at La Méditerranée, while looking out the Odéon, was all pleasure.

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I found her very rude and unpleasant the one time I went there. Didn’t care to return.

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Was in Paris for a week, so wanted to drop a very quick note. My trips these days are, as much as anything else, to see friends and hit the usual spots – I love Parcelles, Vantre and Legrand and it was great to run into friends at all of those places unplanned – including @robert_dentice, was lovely to see you. Had another absolutely special meal at Sota and a fun stop at Enfants du Marche for some cheese and potato :slight_smile: Also ate at Benjamin Schmitt for the first time in the Pigalle, which was fantastic and highly recommended. I don’t tend to do a lot of Michelin star “experiences” anymore in Paris, though will probably do Plentitude on the next trip.

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We quite liked Benjamin Schmitt the first and only time we ate there. It is on our dance card for our next visit.

Have not heard of Benjamin Schmitt. Great to see you! And thanks for the glass of @William_Kelley

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Yup yup! I got there in May (and posted about it here😃) after a friend told me about it and it will definitely be happening for me again in April.

I’m confident that at some point it’ll be a spot that wine people will flock to in time. So, we may as well enjoy it in its current state as much as possible!

I actually ran into Benjamin that night at Parcelles, it’s a very small world. It’s a bit under the radar, but big among the Parisien wine crowd - they get some excellent allocations.

Our last two nights in Paris:
One Really Good and Good

Frenchies - The 5 course blind tasting menu on a Saturday night starting at 9:30 was efficient and quick.

Starter: Carrots two ways, ok. But the escargot bignets with shaved iberico was really good.

Scallops cooked on one side with cumquat and diakon, again really good

Their take on onion soup - OK, now we’re talking. This was stellar. A clear broth fortified with Parmesan rinds with agnolotti filled with onion and truffle cream.

Monk fish two ways with an overwhelming amount of pureed green veggies. More over use of things that contain chlorophyll. Monk fish parts wrapped in Italian cabbage - why? Grilled monk fish was ok. Dish was a head scratcher.

The star of the show was the Duck Wellington. Duck breast and duck sausage wrapped in pastry with a deep duck sauce. Great dish and visually stunning to look at.

Dessert was passable, nothing to mention. I personally don’t understand why people mix chocolate and fruit.

Notes: Wine list is all new releases. Their bread and butter game is on point!

Our last night was Le Jules Verne for my wife’s 50th birthday. We went with the 5 course menu.

Starter - Lobster with vanilla, apple and olive oil. Tasted and looked like a really good dish.

Roasted scallops - best scallop dish all week in Paris.

Langostine with a beetroot jelly. Better than it looked. LoL!

Venison - roasted tenderloin was good. Once again, the French can do some great stuff with potatoes.

Additional dish: The black truffle covered aged cheese. Ok, this one thing is worth the price of admission. No joke, we’re still talking about how to get this cheese and recreate the dish.

Dessert - Chocolate cream. Perfect ending.

Notes: Service is “meh”. Asked for the wine list as we sat down, took 15 minutes til the presentation of the champagne cart to come. We were going to order a bottle of champagne and red, but just ordered a glass of Roderer rose each. Their loss. Amuse Bouche comes, we’re out of champagne and still no list. Politely ask the waiter to take the dishes back to the kitchen and bring the wine list before we continue. He acted like it was the first time I asked for the list. Thirty minutes after sitting we finally get the list and of course what we ordered is not available because they already sold the one bottle they had up there. This is why I asked for the list as soon as I sat down. Great views, can say we went. Go back only if someone else is paying.

Overall, the restaurants in Paris are a great experience. We’re lucky enough to pick out a bunch of places with Stars. In the end, the truth is I’d only go back to Le Bon George’s and Juviniles (maybe Frenchies) as I can see their menu changing a lot more than the others.

That said: The best meal we had in France over the last two weeks was in Nice at Épicentre. Get in now before they get their star"s". This is one place I’d go back to visit tomorrow if I was in town.

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Can we talk about water in Paris?

At Pave, Le Jules Verne and Frenchies they fill bottles that have their restaurant’s logo on it with water. Then they charge you for €6 per bottle.

At Pave I asked for “tap” water and they said they don’t offer it because they serve filtered water.

At the other two I asked for bottled still water and they brought me filtered water in bottles they fill themselves.

Absolute scam.

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Because it’s delicious?

Probably also a function of needing to put out dessert courses and appear creative/change the menu, etc.

Which fruit did you object to being mixed with chocolate?

It’s a big city. Perhaps a function of where you went/bad luck.

I was in Paris 4 days last week and never encountered what you did.

I always ask for a carafe. Once or twice I’ve had a small charge for filtered water.

Congratulations!

We had three different chocolate only desserts in Paris that were phenoenal. No fruit to be seen anywhere. Juviniles, Le Bons George’s and Les Parisenes ALL had creative chocolate dishes.

One chocolate only dessert we had in Nice was jaw-droppingly good. When paired with Japanese plum wine it tasted like a Reeses peanut butter cup with jelly on top. But no peanut butter. That is creative.

Not a fan of any fruit with chocolate. Just doesn’t work for me.

We did the same multiple times over multiple trips and never charged for tap or a carafe of water. This is something we’ve seen only this time.

Once I was having lunch at Pierre Gagnaire and I asked for a carafe. The staff seemed a bit green and for whatever reason when I asked for that they looked at me like I requested hen’s teeth. Not in a snooty way at all but in a “oh my god what do I do!” No less than three people walked to and fro with urgency until someone arrived with several apologies and this really beautiful decanter filled with tap water. It was rather endearing to be honest, as well as a bit silly. No charge, as it should be.

I would never say that chocolate-only desserts cannot be creative. I just wouldn’t draw a rule about never mixing with fruit, it adds flavor, texture, etc.

Of course you are entitled to your preferences. Just like lots of people don’t like nuts in food. But doesn’t make it strange to include those items!

Parisian tap water was so pure it was known for years as “Chateau Chirac;” who needs filtered water? grin

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Restaurants have to provide free water. Technically.

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Sure, but it’s all part of the game. Most places hit you with the assumptive close - “still or sparkling,” while some of the more touristy places will attempt to pop the top on a bottle at the table before you have a chance to say “une carafe.” Good news is that you’re never going to see the latter at any of the restaurants mentioned here.