Eating and Drinking in Modena

Epicurean Exploits - Food and Recipes
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If you’re headed to Osteria Francescana because it got ranked the best resto in the world, here are some other things to eat and drink while you’re there.

Eats
Trattoria Il Fantino is very traditional and a good reference point to go to before you hit Francescana. Just going to Francescana in a vacuum really misses the point. You need to understand it in context of the rich, staid, matriarchal local cuisine. https://goo.gl/maps/CoM3cqNQ1mE2
Hosteria Giusti is a family run deli with a great restaurant in the back. You need reservations. Excellent wine list. Google Maps
salumeria con cucina is a nice deli open til midnight https://goo.gl/maps/P5PFaEQK9tB2
Generi Alimentari Da Panino is the deli from current/former Francescana folks. Hit and miss but generally good. Google Maps
If you just can’t get enough Francescana, their bistro is Franceschetta 58 https://goo.gl/maps/aeNtN7eScfq
I never made it to Zoello, but Sarah recommended it Google Maps

Cheese
Don’t miss Hombre. This is the cheese supplier for Francescana and they have the world’s largest vintage Maserati collection http://www.paninimotormuseum.com/ , plus motorcycles. It’s like an Italian orgy. Google Maps
Another great cheese producer is 4 Madonne Caseificio dell’Emilia. Not just parm https://goo.gl/maps/wJFPM6gqqKT2

Wine
I enjoyed the wines of Cantina Paltrinieri Google Maps
Cantina Della Volta Google Maps
Chiarli Google Maps

Vinegar
Acetaia Malpighi is a great vinegar producer. See John’s post below! Google Maps
Museo dell’Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena Google Maps

Other
There’s nothing to see at Villani except great deals on cured meats Google Maps
Whiskey Antique is a nice selection of vintage spirits Google Maps
Ferrari Museum. Worth it. https://goo.gl/maps/FzDQZATnGoN2 not to be confused with the car museum https://goo.gl/maps/1sNGUBU3gzE2 also worth it.

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Try to arrange the tour of the Ferrari factory. Its well worth it. We also drove by Lamborghini while lost one day and had a great visit.

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This looks like a great resource. We’re headed there in July.

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Modena is a wonderful city, and largely overlooked by tourists. It’s one of the richest cities in Italy, thanks to its industrial base. I wrote a story about traditional balsamic vinegar some years back, which was the excuse for several visits and lots of wonderful encounters with the locals. (As you can imagine, Italian artisanal foodmakers tend to be characters.) I’ve been there seven times over 20 years, the last time in September.

A few things I’d add to the list:

  • The public market just south of the duomo is worth a peruse.
  • I love the duomo itself, which its white marble and its wonderful stone lions.
  • The municipal museum has an eclectic set of collections, including old fabrics and musical instruments as well as Etruscan relics.

Acetaia Malphighi, the vinegar maker, is set up for visits, though Ermes Malphighi does not speak English. If you know even a little Italian, this may not be an issue. He’s a very special man, and speaks, well, theatrically, so communication has never been a problem – even on my first visit, when I didn’t speak any Italian. One of the women in the office speaks English, and I suspect his son, who is helping run the business, probably does as well, so I’m sure they can do a tour in English. But Ermes is part of the draw. Here’s Ermes in September amid some of his balsamico barrels:
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On my last visit, Ermes recommended Osteria Ermes (no relation), a hole-in-the-wall husband-and-wife operation. The tables are shared and the tortellini in brodo and bolito misto are wonderful. The owner is cranky and speaks in Modenese dialect (which is pretty far removed from mainstream Italian), but it’s a unique experience: rustic, homey, unrefined. The antithesis of Francescana.

Things can get rowdy at lunch hour. The five of us at our table went through three bottles of Lambrusco at lunch before the folks at the next table – who were prone to violent outbursts of song – plunked another bottle down on our table and said, “You need more wine!” (in English). Oh, and the owner insists you clean your plates; he will not take leftovers back to the kitchen.

I couldn’t believe that in all my visits I’d not come across the place. People mill about on the street for 45 minutes or an hour waiting for a table at lunch. Definitely an experience not to be missed. A couple of photos:
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If you have a car, consider also going to Pedroni, a vinegar and Lambrusco maker who also operates an osteria out in the countryside maybe 15 minutes northeast of Modena. Again, it’s rustic and the food is terrific. (Try the balsamico ice cream.) They used to have very idiosyncratic hours – open for dinner only one day, lunch only the next two, dinner only the day after that. So check to make sure it’s open. The son speaks decent English. The father, Italo, does not and does not wish to.

The first time I visited, we were warned that Italo had once expelled a customer who wanted her tortellini con panna (with cream sauce) instead of in brodo (in broth – the Modenese style) and waved out the front window at her as she stomped to her car. In other words, this is the real thing. No concessions to tourists or modernity.

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thank you John!

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Just bumping this thread in case the hivemind has any updates. Appreciate these insights!

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The Lamborghini factory tour is a must. Unfortunately it looks like tours are suspended. I believe they were available earlier this year, so it may be worth reaching out to them. In terms of car museums, Ferrari is larger and more comprehensive.

I would consider a balsamic vinegar tour and a parmesan cheese tour. We had very good experiences at Acetaia Guisti (balsamic) and Quattro Madonne (parmesan co-op). Both of these are about 15 minutes by car from Modena city center. Here’s a map.

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Thanks Patrick, was eyeing both Giusti and Quattro Madonne.

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You’re welcome! They can both be done in a day, with a nice lunch in between.

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We’re driving from Florence up to Lake Garda in a month and now thinking about doing a Pedroni/Rubbiara visit and lunch, plus possibly 4 Maddone and the Ferrari Museo for good measure. Other stops along that route (passing by Bologna, Modena, and Verona) we should consider?

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stops as in wineries, restaurants, historical landmarks or others?

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Anything really of interest, thanks.

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Ok,

So not taking into account considerable detours: in Modena you can also visit historic city center, Duomo, Ghirlandina, it’s not the most beautiful town in Italy but it has value. If you want do drink something nice and put something in your mouth (non a full fledged dinner) I suggest Archer near the city center. Don’t mind the reviews, it’s a wine enthusiast place in a touristy alley so it gets a lot of people who’d just want to take pictures for instagram with a glass of something that resembles wine while holding the glass by the bowl, then fill their stomach with cheap peanuts so they don’t have to cook dinner late. It’s not the place, so they rage.

Never been there yet, mind it, but I know personally several wine enthusiast and professionals who gather there at the end of “Modena champagne fair” that takes place in October I think (why is there a champagne fair in Modena of all places remains a mistery to me). You can also give a look to Bobotti (fancier place, altho I don’t think I can convey the meaning i want with that word) which again doesn’t seem much (and you’d be right for 90% probably) but I know they used to have great bottles, hosted champagne presentations for De Venoge iirc so there’s more beyond the curtain.

I don’t have big suggestions for Bologna tbh, I could point your to “Bar Volare” which is a recreation of a 60s Italian bar (there’s been a reasurgeance of love for the era lately, don’t get me started) that has good cocktails and a very good Mortadella made by the last producer inside the city of Bologna apprently.

Moving toward Verona you could make either one of these deoutrs imho: Ferrara or Mantova. If you feel these are “too much” there’s the pitoreqsue town of Valeggio Sul Mincio (hoping that the rivers in Italy will regain some water before your arrive here) that can be seen in like half a day. It’s a bit touristy but targeted to Italian tourist mainly.

There’s also the town of Rovigo somehow along the way, I think you’d be the first foreign tourist they see in a century. They have the most annoing accent in the whole country but that won’t be a problem for you.

There’s no incredible historic landmark in the middle of nowhere that’s really worth a detour imho like if you were driving from Milan to Cinque Terre while being unaware of Certosa di Pavia.

There’s Custoza area that produces interesting wines (tho they’re a little to free to play around with varietals imho) and I assume they might not be super diffused in the US. There’s also Custoza Broccoletto, which despite the name doesn’t look like Broccoli, but its season is winter so no extra motive to stop.

If you wish to know more I might provide you with something extra!

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Specifically re Modena, tried to book Franchescetta58 for a month from now and already booked! I boofed and didn’t realize they take bookings 2 months in advance!

Any other reccos board members have for modernish dining? We want to do one night of something nice, but won’t be doing the big dog (Francescana).

Cheers

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Are you not doing Casa Maria Luigia as well? or “Il Cavallino” in Maranello (Bottura had his hands in this as well)?

If not I’ll go browse my super secret guide for mid to high tier restaurants to eat and come back at you :smiley:

Edit: went to search for Modena and actually found much more Bologna related stuff I’ve never put my mind on, if you want reco sourced by trusted people / proven guides let me know.

I’d suggest L’Erba Del Re, which is also 1 * michelin but I don’t use michelin as my prime guide, if you want somethign modern in Modena city.

Be mindful of something guys: the fact that Bottura is in Modena with his little empire does not mean the region has been carried in his wave, they have a strong and very appreciated traditional cusine + they’ve been the left (as in political side) stronghold in the country for decades, not the most fertile envirorment for fine dining!

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Great reccos! Didn’t know Bottura had such an empire.

Between Cavallino (which requires a trip out to Maranello, which isn’t the worst thing!) or dinner at Erba del Re, which do you prefer? EdR looks quite fancy, whereas Cavallino looks a bit more laid back and modern. I’d expect them to come out about the same in terms of cost factoring in ubers.

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They’re both reccomended in the same trustworthy guide I follow.

From what perspires from pictures (I fancy myself as quite perceptive on the subject) I wouldn’t be that exited to go to neither of them, not because I’d be afraid to eat poorly mind you but if you’re moving around and not on unlimited budget you want to pick your fights.

I’d either muster the resolve for Casa Maria Luigia (which should be visited even before Osteria Francescana imho since it’s all the top historical Francescana dishes are now at Casa Maria Luigia) or go to a regular good trattoria and save firepower for elsewhere, altho I believe it’s too late for you to land reservation the big boys, Casa Maria Luigia at risk as well.

Regarding car museums: why not Horacio Pagani which is also near Modena? Ferrari has more relevance in culture ofc but Pagani is a visionary and you rarely see those cars around.

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Had a great time in Modena, and thanks to everyone for sharing great infos. Enjoy the slow living and the emphasis of quality ingredients. I have a theory that great food requires either agglomeration effects, access to superb ingredients, or long-standing tradition. Modena is a very unique intersection of these factors.

We did lunch at Ermes which has the warm trattoria vibes that you would expect even without the proprietor holding court. The food is extermely heavy for my dainty constitution, so we went light on the ordering. Very good lasagna but not a glowing recco in my book as there are great options all about town.

We did a lot of appertivos at local bars and were consistently impressed by the little things. Baccalau at Fusorasi was superb with wonderful softness, crisp, and acidity. The little things! A salad there had a superlative bite of tomato. The atmosphere is why you go, but damn, I could get used to this.

Menomoka is a cool coffee shop with good pasteries, but honestly, I prefer the traditional espresso bar when in Italy, but if you’re craving a pourover or aeropress respite, they have you covered.

Enjoyed the whisky list at Archivio even if it is a bit too on the nose in terms of vibe. Cheap Lagavulin 16 and decent negronis.

We were on the waitlist at Francheschetta58 so I decided to bike over there one afternoon and talked myself into a table. They usually leave the patio seats unopen given the amount of unexpected rain, so a good strategy to get a table given the lack of seatings. Had some of our best bites in all of Italy here, namely their Rabbit Ravioli which was absurd and the tortolini in parmesan cream.

Thoroughly enjoyed renting a car and going around town to visit Acetai Giusti, Quattro Madrone (parmesan creamery), as well as the Ferrari museum (very touristica). We also stumbled into Whisky Antique while in Maranello, which is a world class liquor store. Enoteca Compagnia Del Taglio has probably the best wine selection we saw in the city. Bottles of Radikon Oslavje for high 20s euros, great selection of Gattinara and Barolo.

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Thanks for the write up. Where did you stay ? We’ll be there for a weekend in October and looking for hotel recco’s.

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We did an Airbnb in the old town. Be ware of can accessibility on the cobble stones. Not easy to get a car to catch a train/plane!

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