There is definitely an oversupply though. Tasting menus are typically “special occasion” restaurants right? So if there too many to choose from and not enough special occasions, then some just won’t be busy. If the food is good people will tend to go there more often. Like you and your wife just flew to eat at Noma.
But yes there’s also a trend toward more ala carte restaurants for sure. It just feels more casual and something easier that can be done on a week day without it being a special event.
I enjoy tasting menus because they force me to try things I otherwise wouldn’t (yes, but for rare occurrences, I need to be “forced,” as I’m usually more likely to order something that sounds more appealing — totally crazy, I know ). Prior to our meal at Kinn, I was prepared to be “challenged” on one, if not two, courses; as it turned-out, I don’t think any of the courses we were served would “challenge” the average diner, let alone one who’s willing to do a prix fixe menu.
The foregoing having been said, although I enjoy tasting menus, I do need to be in the mood to be adventurous, and that mood strikes less often than does the “I simply want a nice meal out.” mood.
I think NYC tasting menu restaurants are less special occasion diners than elsewhere. I see many of the same people whom, like me, eat out regularly. I would say 50% or more are people like that and the other 50% is divided between food tourists visiting NYC and special occasion diners.
Correct me if I’m wrong, but I’m pretty sure people in NYC eat-out a lot more than do people in L.A… NYC comes with super small kitchens and great public trans.; L.A. is sprawling with terrible traffic and very poor public trans. As such, your observations don’t surprise me (even if there may be other factors at play, too).
For those who ate at Kinn, what kind of wine would you suggest? I don’t have much experience with Korean food but I was thinking a Kabinett or Spätlese Riesling and a dry wine, maybe Champage. Thoughts?
I think the food culture here is just different for many reasons. The type of restaurant that I always thought was missing from the LA scene is exactly what Kinn is. Casual with an extremely high level of cuisine like Atoboy, Contra or Four Horsemen in NYC and so many restaurants in Paris, Copenhagen etc.
What I see eating out in both cities frequently is there is a larger number of people who eat our regularly, in NY I see them out a nightly basis whether its Yoshino, Atoboy or various restaurants in Brooklyn. For example, I eat out 5-7x per week counting lunches.
Interestingly I often seem these same people in Paris or Copenhagen.
Don’t get me wrong I love the LA food scene and as I have said it is not NYC but it is the most exciting in the U.S. in terms of the rapid pace of development.
I can’t compare LA to NY but I would suggest the notion that LA has seriously good ethnic choices at a great price point you don’t find in other cities. In my neck of the woods there’s Filipino, Mexican, Korean, El Salvadorian, Caribbean, pizza, Japanese to name a few, and all within a 2-3 mile radius. And within each category, tremendous range. I like to cook so I do eat at home often, but I could easily eat out all week and not repeat a country. There’s also the sense/vibe of casualness, even at the higher price points, such as Republique, Hatchet Hall, Dunsmoor, Etta, etc…
We were quite happy with Champagne and a dry Riesling. If you go sweet Riesling, I wouldn’t crank it any higher than Kabinett, but – personally – I think dry is better here.
I am nowhere near you or @CFu 's culinary stratosphere, but I’ve always had a real problem with tweezer food tasting menus. It’s just not something I enjoy. I also detest the “resort/cruise line” squeeze bottle sauce dress-up cooking you see in so many restaurants trying to be fancy. If I see one more parmesan rind white sauce drizzled diagonally across the square plate (what’s wrong with round plates?) with colorful ingredients, I think I might scream.
I think good chefs with good taste are minimalists at heart of course, but not afraid of a dish looking a bit bare or even simple at times. No need for color contrasts or accents. About trusting that the food is good enough.
I think London’s classic St. John and many of the small new Paris restaurants (from what I see) are doing it right. Trust in simplicity, trust in rusticity. Don’t put lipstick on it, just serve it as is. Put your “high end imprint” on the silverware, stemware and tablecloths instead, not on dressing food in flowers.
But here in America, we have a real problem with simplicity. Here more is always more. And it’s a hard habit to break.
It is in a horrible location. The OC equivalent of the penal colony where Pizzeria Bianco is located, but without the charm.
My guess is that they made a great real estate deal before they became a big deal. Sorta like Jame in El Segundo, who expanded to Venice and Brentwood…
Taco María is one of my top restaurants in SoCal, despite its (current) shitty location.
but people would happily go to that location. Opposed to the Row in DTLA. Ha.
That plaza is usually pretty bustling in costa mesa.
From what I saw they wanted the space redone and the landlord didn’t. So they couldn’t come to an agreement and decided to not renew. Hopefully they can find a larger spot. They are deeply needed in the OC as the only great nice restaurant there.
I happily go to that location from Brentwood, but it is still a disaster from an operational standpoint.
And there is nothing wrong with The Row that can’t be fixed with an incendiary bomb.
I rarely go to DTLA since it’s so far from me, but I really liked how hassle free the Row was once qe got there. Tons of easy, cheap parking. Parking very close to restaurants. Very clean and feels safe.
). Prior to our meal at Kinn, I was prepared to be “challenged” on one, if not two, courses; as it turned-out, I don’t think any of the courses we were served would “challenge” the average diner, let alone one who’s willing to do a prix fixe menu.
