The following notes and thoughts are based primarily on a tasting on 4/5 and follow-ups of the same wines that were open over a 3-7 day period.
Take the scores with a grain of salt as they are mostly to reflect the relative qualities of 20+ top wines – almost all wines were at least very good and most were excellent.
Post-tasting Thoughts:
- Grüner can age extremely well
- 2007 is more elegant and approachable than 2006 and overall a great vintage
- The younger Austrian winemakers are producing nice wines but have a very long way to go to catch up to the establishment (with the exception of Marion Ebner)
- Marion Ebner is an incredibly talented winemaker – one of the best young winemakers in the world
- Austrian wines are among the most exciting and complex wines in the world…and are extremely undervalued!
- CocoRosie is a perfect pairing with Grüner!
1977 Freie Weingartner Dünsteiner Spätlese – Himmelstiege
Started with an old Grüner from the Freie Weingartner cooperative. I believe this was a recent release from the Domaine’s very large library of older wines. I have had this wine four times before and this was not the best showing but it was still enjoyable and proof that Grüner can age very well.
Dark golden color. Slightly Oxidized. Honey, metal, mint and spices on the nose. Typical aged white wine profile that falls in between Chardonnay and Riesling. Initially a slightly damp or musty quality on the palate which eventually subsides. Minerality and graphite emerge on the palate along with a juiciness and a nuttiness on the very end of the finish that is surprising given the age. Overall an enjoyable wine that just falls short of excellence.
90
The first two wines could easily be the Federspiels of the Vintage and were highly anticipated by the group.
2007 Nikolaihof – Im Weingebirge Federspiel
This is Terry Thiese’s Wine of the Vintage because in his words – “for its otherworldly expressiveness, serenity and beauty. “ I have had it at least three times before this and it is an exceptional wine!
Beautifully elegant and intense nose that I could smell forever. Floral, apple, honeysuckle and a mélange of enticing aromas. The wine floats over your palate with a substantial but not overpowering finish due in part to the lower alcohol. An elegant and subtle wine that still manages to have everything - great aromatics, acid, juicy fruit and minerality all in perfect proportions.
94
2007 Alzinger – Muhlpoint Federspiel
This wine was opened along side of the Nikolaihof Im Weingebirge Federspiel and it was a great comparison. Both wines are similar in weight and structure. However, the Alzinger is more focused and precise with more slate, rock and white pepper. Yet it is less flamboyant aromatically and is not as multi-dimensional as the Nikolaihof. Initially a hint of fresh sea air and a unique cheese smell followed by mint. Minerality and white pepper on the mid-palate with a very long finish.
93
2007 Malat höhlgraben
Malat is located in Kremstal and is new additional to the winemonger portfolio. From the winemonger website: “The Malat estate is near Krems, in Palt, between the southern bank of the Danube and the Gottweiger Mountain. An especially beneficial microclimate marks the region. White and red wines thrive on primary rocks, and on a loess and gravel mixture and clay. The Hohlgraben vineyard is the Malat estate’s most historic and probably also most important Veltliner plantation. There are seven vineyards within the area, all slightly different from each other. The soil is all classic loess with south to south west exposure. Hohlgraben lies at the foot of the Gottweiger Stiftsberg.”
Pleasant aromatics. Great acidity, tartness and intensity. Some white peppers, herbs, spice and saline. Slightly bigger wine than the previous two wines. Overall a nice wine at a decent price point ($27 at K&L).
89
2007 Schmelz Loibner – Gürten Federspiel
Light airy sea breaze aromatics. A hint of copper? Initially a very weak initial impression. Opened up to a pleasing but mild taste with a medium length finish. Some white pepper and saline. On day one this was basic and not exciting. A few days later it is slightly better.
88
2007 Gritsch Mauritiushof – Singerriedel Federspiel
Huge nose of sweet citrus and perfume. Initial impression of saline characteristics and vanilla like characteristics. Juicy. Long pleasing finish. Decent minerality. An unusual blend of sweetness, saline, pepper and minerality. Almost great it just lacked a little depth and complexity.
89+
I had very high hopes that some of the wines from the up an coming producers would show extremely well and better than the establishment but it just did not happen. Tasted alone many of them would probably have faired much better.
2007 Alzinger – Stienertal Smaragd
Classic Grüner! Enormous minerality, depth and complexity. White pepper, kumkwat and other exotic fruits mixed with rock dust. This is JUICY but also very cerebral. It requires a calm focus. It is very easy to get lost in this wine….
94
2007 Alzinger – Mühloint Smaragd
Beautiful fresh nose with floral characteristics. Saline, minerality, pepper and a slight nuttiness combine to create a unique taste that has depth and length. Less juicy than the Stienertal but more intensity and depth.
92
2007 Prager – Achleiten Smaragd
WOW! This wine is intense. A perfect example of Grüner even though it seemed to be partially closed. Extremely spicey, enormous minerality and lots of depth and an extremely long penetrating finish. A really nice hint of sweetness creates a creaminess and perfect balance to lightly tone down the intense white pepper and minerality.
95
2007 Prager Achleiten Bodenstein Smaragd
Huge brooding nose with some floral charasterics, white pepper and wet rocks. Juicy! Intense. Incredible minerality.
95
From David Schildknecht – Wine Advocate #181:
“The 2007 Gruner Veltliner Wachstum Toni Bodenstein represents the first harvest from un-irrigated high terraces – until recently scrub and woods – in Achleiten (to be labeled as such next vintage) that Bodenstein densely-planted with more than 120 different clones and selections from all over the region, and which are being trained to single posts in the ancient manner (“Stockkultur”).”
2007 Prager Achleiten Stockkultur Smaragd
One of the most anticipated bottles of the evening and sadly it was corked. Yet you could still get a hint of the intensity and greatness of the wine.
NR
2007 Hirzberger – Honivogol Smaragd (Magnum)
Nothing is cooler than an Austrian magnum of Grüner! This was the surprise of the night for many and on this night one of the top contenders for the wine of the night.
Crazy, crazy nose. Roasted beef and spices! Singular taste. JUICY! Very open and extremely delicious. Minerality. The approachability of this wine is I assume partly due to the vintages. Exciting and thrilling wine!
Seven days later its still stunning.
96+
2007 Pichler – Loibner Berg
Beautiful nose. One of the darker wines of the night. Pepper, spice, minerality and juiciness. This wine improved the most over a few days.
95
2007 Pichler – M
I have had this wine three times before and I think it is the best Grüner of the 2007 Vintage and significantly more approachable and elegant than the monstrous 2006. Floral aromatics, white pepper powder, lots of intensity and edgy energy in this wine. Very complex. Commands your attention.
97
2007 Ebner-Ebenauer - Bursting
This wine was given to me as a gift from Marion and is not yet available in the U.S. (Emily correct me if I am wrong as this is not the 1 liter). I think this Marion’s first vintage working with this fruit and this is not an expensive wine yet it is beautiful and it absolutely got peoples attention (especially Stephen AustrianCocoRosieFreak Bitterolf) even after following the two Pichlers. Marion is quite possibly the most talented young winemaker in the world, not just Austria!
The wine was focused, light, pure and elegant. A protypical Grüner. Pepper, slate and rock dusts. Loaded with flavor but subtle and not over the top.
I can’t wait to taste the 2007 Melusine!!
94
The next two wines were served blind…
2007 Bründlmayer – Berg Vogelsang
Very bright and lively. Great acidity. Pepper. Rock dust. Minerality. A big wine that is not highly complex but has depth and focus.
92
I guessed 07 Schloss Gobelsburg…close.
1983 Bründlmayer – Berg Vogelsang Spatlese
Clearly a very old Grüner that exhibits the secondary aromas and flavors of old Grüner and maybe Riesling. Honey, petrol, anise, licorice and an overall crazy mélange of flavors. The wine was very smooth, alive and complex. A metallic and mineral component added additional layers of intrigue. Simply put, a fascinating wine! Thank you Stephen!
I guessed late 70s early 80s Bründlmayer!
96
I don’t drink much Bernhard Ott but certainly have taken note of the favorable press both - wines were a disappointment.
2007 Bernhard Ott – Fass 4
Very interesting nose. Reminded me of oatmeal. With some air fresh sear air. Rock dust on the palate. Lacked depth and energy for me.
89
2007 Bernhard Derr – Ott
Crazy nose. Smokiness? A coffee like aroma. Some sweetness on the palate. A hint of wood? Some white pepper. More intense and flavorful that the Fass 4.
91
2007 Bründlmayer – Käferberg
This wine totally surprised me it was one of the most complex of the evening. Big aromatics, pepper spice, great acidity, minerality, depth, richness, and juicy…all this plus a hint of sweetness. Wow!
96
Schloss Gobelsburg – Renner
Very cool nose. White peach. Kumkwat. Pepper. Great acidity. Wet rocks.
A unique profile that stood out. Another complex wine with enormous depth.
95
2007 Johann Donabaum – Spitzer Point Federspiel
Nice nose. Large wine. Lots of depth. White pepper. Weird fruit characteristics – grape fruit? Overall a very good showing.
92
2007 Hogl – Schön
Decent nose. Some saline characteristics. A bit flabby and lacked focus. Just not exciting…
88
2007 Hirsch – Heiligenstein
Lighter in style. Subtle but has depth and is focused. Refreshing and my favorite descripton JUICY. Nice energy and acidity. Great long finish. Overall this showed extremely well (particularly well since we opened it last) and demonstrated that Hirsch has a unique style. Also this was substantially better when I returned to it five days later.
93