Dyroff Visits, Houston Goes Berserk - 10 Vintages of Leoville-Barton, 5 Vintages of La Conseillante, and more

There are many ways consultants work with properties. This ranges from them doing exactly what the estate wants to offering advice that may be accepted or rejected, or suggesting some options that are accepted and others that are not. In some cases, consultants are partially or fully in charge of the vineyards and the winemaking. In other instances, consultants are used specifically in the vineyards (as that’s their specialty), or they may focus on the winemaking, or solely to collaborate with the team on blending.

Rolland often faces unnecessary criticism on this board. What Michel does better than anyone in Bordeaux is the blending. At La Conseillante, he is part of the team for blending. They may choose to follow his advice or not. Marielle is extremely talented, but an extra set of views is not a bad thing, as it is possible they find something that others don’t.

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Dropping in to thank everyone for their great generosity and the warm atmosphere on Tuesday. Anyone who gets the chance to meet up with any member of this week’s Houston crowd should jump at the opportunity.

@Corey.H’s champagnes were delicious and the sort of thing that I would not have sought out for myself, so those were very much appreciated, even if we couldn’t give them the same deep dive that the Bordeaux got.

The Jadot white that @JustinP was a funny case—large-scaled and expressive from the jump, but revealing some more nuanced herbal characteristics when we returned to it later in the evening.

The Conseillante interlude was a blast, with the 2011 and 2014 showing especially nicely for my tastes.

It’d be hard to add to Justin’s initial summary regarding the Leoville Barton, but I’ll add my voice to the chorus of praise for the 1973. I found the 1988 to have an interesting combination of bell pepper and char/ash on the nose while still being concentrated and punchy on the palate. The 2002 was a surprise for me, as recent ‘02s had been a little lackluster (Calon-Segur was just a bit wimpy, and Pontet-Canet was a bit more savory than I’d like Bordeaux to be at this stage). The 2002 L-B was fresh, pleasantly grippy, and had lots of friendly red fruit and caramel. The 2004 was very satisfying—darker in its fruit profile than the 2002, and with soft, plump tannins that would make it a great steakhouse wine. The 2009 was very big, and I have hopes that it will eventually resemble the 1996.

My notes slipped in quality by the time we got to the 2016 and 2017, but the 2016 managed to be structured and powerful while retaining a brightness and elegance to the fruit profile. This is a wine that I’d like to sit with for a while to get a better read on. The 2017 was lighter and more delicate, but I think that this is still a good buy at the right price, which seems likely to remain/become possible given 2017’s reputation. Brandon of AOC was especially generous opening these for a group that included very few actual members of AOC, so I want to shout him out.

I’m polishing off the leftover 2009 Guiraud while typing this up, and Justin’s note is spot on, including his mention of VA, which I didn’t notice until he pointed it out. The VA doesn’t stand out now, but I think that’s helped by my current pairing of smoked blue cheese. Next to a more delicate food, the VA might detract a little. The 1988 Guiraud capped a night of incredible generosity from @Myles_Lup, and it was a fun comparison to have next to the 2009.

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Great notes Robert and really enjoyed discussing the wines with you. And thanks for the Dairy Maids cheese tray!

VA in Sauternes is an interesting topic. Not that I drink a ton of it, but I seem to come across VA far more often there than in any other category of wine. I assume it relates to the slow distressed fermentations you probably get with high sugars.

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I thought Robert Vifian had interesting insight on Rolland in Levi’s podcast with him. It’s worth a listen.

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Will give this a listen, thanks Michael!

Thanks for posting. I opened a 2004 tonight based on your comments and its very good and your notes are spot on.

Cheers

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Terrific event and writeup. That 1996 Barton is just awesome stuff and is drinking great now. The 1988 is a sleeper. Not highly lauded and overpowered by riper versions, but on its own it’s an extremely satisfying drink.

Happy to see an early peek in on and some positive notes on the 2016 Conseillante and Barton. Mine are tucked away for now.

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Enjoyed the notes and glad to read the experience!

During a dinner with visiting non-winegeek relatives, about a year ago, the double decanted 2000 Leoville Barton was clearly heads-and-shoulders above both 2002/03; even the 2003 was drinking better than what always was a decently-serviceable 2002, but which proved to be not in the same league as same(ish) genre but bigger-structured versions, when thrown into a vertical.

The 1996 Barton is one very admirable classic claret, that I enjoyed with every opportunity I got to taste.

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I feel the same way about their 1993 Demoiselles.