As France entered almost total lockdown since last night, it’s good to have a few good bottles in the cellar to keep one’s spirits up.
I last had this two years ago and it is continuing to evolve well, much better than I would ever have thought possible a few years ago.
On opening, it had a whiff of heat-affected fruit and a rather pinched, drying attack, but as with the last bottle, it just needed air. I didn’t decant - I just poured half a glass and left the rest to breathe - two hours later, it was far better. The nose was classic Pauillac, with trademark aromas of cassis and cigar box cedar, the only sign of 03 being a slight hint of licorice. The attack was rich, velvety and full bodied, but without any traces of raisins or anything out of the ordinary - just ripe cassis. The middle section was wonderful, rising high and full of rich, but restrained notes of blueberry, blackberry and dark cherry, leading into a calm, confident finish of cassis, with just a slight hint of licorice right at the end. It was still quite tannic, the decent grip and ripe fruit ensuring it will probably improve further over the next decade. I think it is perhaps just a notch under Pontet-Canet, so 92 pts.
This is a seriously good wine, which we enjoyed more than the Pichon Baron tried a few months ago. It’s not over-expensive and about 40% less than the Pichon, at around 60€ at auction over here, so one worth considering. I bought some for one of my daughters’ birth year collections and I’m glad I did - so thanks again to those of you who suggested I do.
I would never have guessed this was a 2003 - if you had told me it was a 96 or something similar, I would have believed you. I know some are put off by all 2003s, which I quite understand, but a select few are really not what one expects: they are just normal, classic wines from a ripe year.
We had a similar experience yesterday with a 03 Reserve de la Comtesse—a bit big and cherry-fruited-awkward on opening and initial decant, after 2 hours in the glass it settled down some, though still on the riper side, but quite sleek lines and enjoyable to drink for sure.
I was wild about the 03 Duhart on release. Many 03s showed sexy but weird back when they first hit the shelves, filled as they were with praline and spiky tannins. Not the Duhart, which was much more classic and drinking so well. And it was dirt cheap, less than $30 so I bought more.
It seemed like it has been in an awkward phase in recent years, but sounds like it maybe snapping out if it. Thanks Julian.
Jürgen - well, as you may remember, you told me quite correctly in the past to be open-minded about 03s when I was ranting about how awful they were - so in some cases, you were spot on!
Mike - glad you had a good one too!
Pat - yes, it was good value on release. I sold all of my collection of Duharts when the prices got caught up in the slipstream of Les Carruades, back in 2011. Seems incredible now that the 03 was selling for 100€ back then and even vintages like 99 were going for 90€.
Claus - sorry about the Branaire - but not surprised: I never understood the high scores. It’s still selling for only a fraction less than the Duhart.
Wishing everyone all the very best - stay happy and healthy!
