Domaine Hubert Lamy and Domaine Jean-Marc Vincent

WINE TALK
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Got together with Rob Walters, the Australian Importer for Domaine Hubert Lamy, and put on an event showcasing the wines of Domaine Hubert Lamy and Domaine Jean-Marc Vincent, a Domaine whom we have been importing for 20 years (I hope Todd is ok with me posting notes on these). Joseph and his team at Restaurant Bistra in Melbourne did a fabulous job with the food and service. All of the wines were remarkably consistent and very good. The unrelenting pursuit of excellence by both of these Domaines in the vineyards and cellar have paid dividends and the wines at these two addresses have never been better.

JMV White Bracket

2019 Domaine Jean-Marc Vincent Santenay Les Vignes Denses : Starting to drink really well. Built around a core of intense white peach fruit. It shows a touch of spice, a puff of chalk and loads of saline minerality. Silky through the palate and finishing with citrus cut and salinity.

2020 Domaine Jean-Marc Vincent Auxey-Duresses Les Hautés : Some mineral reduction on the aroma. Dense and sappy in the mouth. Powerful orchard fruit flavours. Oozes minerality. Great shape and presence. Very long.

N.V. Domaine Jean-Marc Vincent Bourgogne-Aligoté Soler-Al Mise No. 1 : A blend of 2018 through to 2022. Complex and engaging. Great texture in the mouth, linear but layered. Echoes of citrus fruit and some savoury slatey mineral things. Excellent intensity and drive and really good persistence.

Hubert Lamy White Bracket

2020 Domaine Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Clos de la Chateniere Blanc Vieilles Vignes : Deep, rich and concentrated yet light on its feet. Rich and sappy orchard fruits overlay a stony base. Plenty of flint smoky mineral and a sprig of mint. Excellent depth and real latent power. Length to burn.

2022 Domaine Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière Chez Edouard Blanc : Ripe and generous and accessible. Has a fruit sweet heart. Quite peachy and some candied peel too. Mineral things lurk just below the flesh. It draws in at the finish and is bright and energetic.

2022 Domaine Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière Chez Edouard Cuvée Haute Densité : A big step up from the standard bottling. More focussed, deeper, so much mineral nuance. Builds through the palate and has Grand Cru volume and power. Rich and sappy, layered and long. Fabulous wine and should age for many decades under its DIAM closure.

Gravières Blanc Bracket

2019 Domaine Jean-Marc Vincent Santenay 1er Cru Gravières Blanc : Deep, rich, chalky and chewy. Good flavour intensity coupled with elegance and grace. Fresh fruit flavours are backlit by minerally acidity. There’s good chalky dry extract to the very long finish. Just starting to play in the drinking zone but plenty in the tank.

2021 Domaine Hubert Lamy Santenay 1er Cru Clos des Gravières Blanc : Generous and exuberant. Ripe apple and spiced pear fruits. Plenty of floral spice. Layered and full and fresh mineral cut to the finish.

2014 Domaine Hubert Lamy Santenay 1er Cru Clos des Gravières Blanc : Just taking on a hint of toasty development. A touch of smoky reduction too. Ripe white peach and some rockmelon. Silky in the mouth. Ripe but cut with a line of intense minerally acidity. Super saline on the finish and very long.

Gravières Rouge Bracket

2023 Domaine Jean-Marc Vincent Santenay 1er Cru Gravières Rouge : A ripe nose with just a hint of aniseed spice. Excellent detail in the mouth and built around a core of black cherry fruit. Some stony minerality and good mid-palate density. It builds and fans out and should be special with some bottle age.

2022 Domaine Hubert Lamy Santenay 1er Cru Clos des Gravières Vieilles Vignes : Full and fleshy. Perfectly ripe blood plum and cherry fruits. Nice mineral detail. Balanced and nicely proportioned. The long finish is carried by perfectly ripe tannins.

2016 Domaine Jean-Marc Vincent Santenay 1er Cru Gravières : From Magnum this was humming. Some violets to the aroma along with dark earth and fresh cherries. The palate is rich and velvety with fleshy red and black fruits lapping over a stony base. It finishes with good freshness and chew and is long and satisfying.

2013 Domaine Jean-Marc Vincent Santenay 1er Cru Gravières : In a really nice place. Highly perfumed notes of rose petal, strawberry, cherry and raspberries. Excellent mineral detail in the mouth. Fine and silky and backlit by electric acidity. The finish is expansive and long with a suggestion of freshly tilled earth.

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Thanks for the deep dive, especially on the Jean-Marc Vincent. I think it’s time to check out my '15 Graviéres rouge.

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Delicious notes, thank you!

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Great and informative TNs Jeremy!

I love, love that wine. I couldn’t keep my hands off them and finished my stash earlier this year. Have you tried the new edition (Mise #2)?

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Great set of wines across the sub regions! Thanks for the notes. So does JMV also have some high density plantings?

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Thanks Phil.

I had the 2nd edition two weeks ago. A very good wine.

N.V. Jean-Marc Vincent Bourgogne-Aligoté Soler-Al Mise No. 2: Complex aromatics of lemon curd, citrus blossom, smoky mineral and spice. The palate is direct, compact and linear. It has outstanding richness and tension. It oozes saline minerality and finishes with grapefruit cut and length to burn.

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Thanks Rauno. Les Vignes Denses is off various high desnity plantings (14-17k per ha). The JMV Gravières blanc is planted at 17k and new plantings within Auxey-Duresses Les Hautés are also at 17k.

kind regards
Jeremy

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@Jeremy_Holmes I just received my 24’s including a case of the Bourgogne Blanc Conservatoire, I dont know if you tasted it during your visit or if its something they decided to do later on. Anaïs told me its a blend of Chardonnay massal selections, do you happen to have any aditional information :slight_smile: ?

EDIT: I realize this is the 2024’s im speaking off

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Hi KThrane,

The Association Technique Viticole de Bourgogne (ATVB) is a grower’s association devoted to the defence of genetic diversity. It has collected more than 400 different genetic lines of Chardonnay in order to save them and multiply them around the region. A vineyard of 0.3 ha was planted, making it the most complete massale selection of Chardonnay in the world. A plot was chosen for this “Conservatoire” just out of Dijon and despite the simple “Bourgogne appellation", it is a good terroir, in the middle of the Coteau, with a soil structure of clay with limestone. There was a tender process to select a local grower to make the wine from this special project and Jean-Marc Vincent was selected (ahead of some of the region’s finest names). Jean-Marc is super-excited about the wine, noting that because it is a nursery vineyard, yields are extremely low in order to produce strong woods to graft. We tasted from barrel and it is excellent.

kind regards
Jeremy

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Beautiful, thanks!

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Interesting Jeremy - do you happen to know where exactly the plot is located. I’d be curious to have a look! I imagine somewhere just south of Dijon then?

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I don’t really spend a lot of time on WB any more, but your posts invariably make my visits worthwhile. A powerful combo of succinctness and precision, not a single word too many, and every word counts. Thank you, Sir, a pleasure to read your notes.

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Hi Jozef, I’m not sure exactly where it is as I haven’t been there yet.

kind regards
Jeremy

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Thank you for the notes. Curious where you all think the sweet spot of the Lamy lineup lies as I’m interested in picking up some bottles

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Olivier Lamy is at the absolute height of his powers. I’m happy to drink everything from Bourgogne Blanc Les Chataigners right through to Criots. I reckon you can buy with confidence right through the range and they are sealed under DIAM. Not sure there is a sweet spot, per se. They are a sweet suite of great wines.

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Thanks! Appreciate the info.

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En Remilly

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That one is on my radar along with the Frionnes

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Ahhh, we’ll finally bring you into the fold!

Agree with @Jeremy_Holmes’s answer the most, but here is my input:

The Saint-Aubins are all farmed with apparent precision and specificity, and so as far as I can tell, purchasing the Saint-Aubin 1ers means you are very much purchasing the peak of what each vineyard can deliver in a given vintage. For this reason I think some of the theoretically equivalent 1ers (En Remilly aside) deliver a little more or less than the others, even if they are similarly priced.

Bourgogne Chataigniers is all declassified Saint-Aubin fruit, but often a bit overpriced in the US.

I love La Princeé, and to Jeremy’s point, it should stand out that the 2023 Princeé scored as high as some of the 1er crus that vintage for JM. I’ve loved 2016, 2017, 2021, and 2022. 2021 Princeé was phenomenal.

Frionnes seems to do well, and remains fairly balanced to Olivier’s style.

Clos de Meix is apparently pretty stony, and seems to run even more mineral in style.

Derrière Chez Edouard is an interesting one to look at, because you’re buying stuff farmed right next to a Haute Densite plot. I’ve always been curious as well about the fact that he has found it worthy enough to leave his small section of Pinot Noir there, when he easily could have converted it to more Chardonnay.

I’ve been chasing Murgers des Dents de Chien for forever and have never seen a bottle, but it’s apparently a fantastic bottling.

A big sweet spot is Clos de la Chateniere VV, which always seems to have a lot of density to the cuvée. A friend opened a 2020 last year and it seemed to carry its weight for hours, and then days, afterwards.

Olivier is said to love his Santenay vineyards, and there seems to be a real value there. I have yet to open any of my Clos des Gravieres Blanc as they are 2022s.

I won’t pretend to speak to En Remilly or Haute Densite when I haven’t had them, but it should be evident that they are highly regarded for a reason. Would love to have one!

Did I mention I love these wines?

Happy to have a reason to talk about them!

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Thanks Owen. This is really helpful. Is there a separate Clos de la Chateniere VV bottling or is it just labeled Clos de la Chateniere? Also, I was looking at Princee as well, so thanks for noting that one too. I’ll poke around and see what I can find. Any in particular drink well early?

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