There is a much deeper nuance to barrel as all 100% new aren’t created the same. Toast level, time the wood was allowed to dry and “season”, source material, so many things go into a barrel and what it can impart to liquid.
All out barrels are French oak. All are 228 liter barrels. Vanillin is a common attribute in wines in new barrels but not necessarily present or dominant if present.
We have chosen barrels that I would describe as not really having much vanillin impact. There are plenty of barrels that make wine smell like sun tan lotion. I hate that. Francois Freres are probably the most notorious of our barrels but a) I think they have toned it down over the years and b) we have specific places they go where they work.
Used barrels over time can actually depress the fruit sensation in a wine while new/newer barrels can bring it out. Sounds counter intuitive but I’ve seen it in action. There’s more structure in new barrels for obvious reasons.
We used to use Medium and Medium + toast levels. I find the Medium toast barrels can be planky and more oaky in appearance than Medium + so now all we get is M+.
All planks are outdoor seasoned. This might seem obvious but it’s not always the case.
Our Cadus barrels are either Bertranges or Vosges forest. Most other barrels are grain selections.
Second, the question Adam H.Lee poses is a good one: how is it that two vignerons with vineyards next-door can make such different wines. Isn’t terroir all that matters?
I posed that question to Alain Burguet–all 5’ 6" of him-- and Philippe Engel many moons ago…1988 or so.We were having lunch at Square One–RIP./Why, I asked Alain, is your wine so different from Denis Bachelet’s? You both have old vines in Gevrey.
Well, he said, I do pigeage --punchdown- and he does remontage–pumpover. I do MLF in tank; Denis, in barrels.
I looked down at him and said, But how can you do pigeage? (the implication was that he was too short).Phillippe and I burst out laughing.
Well…it was funny at the time.