Charles Johnson and Bob Fleming were over in London for a few days with their wives so we did our best to entertain them and repay the incredible generosity they had shown me in Atlanta. First, we started with a dinner at the Ledbury for 7 of us. After the usual selection of amuse bouches (incl the wonderful beetroot meringues with foie gras) we started with a simply incredible turbot with pumpkin gnocchi, chanterelles and clementine puree. This was the best seafood dish I’ve had anywhere, anytime and worked beautifully with the two meursaults:
2002 Domaines Latour-Giraud and Mikulski Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru (12/29/2009)
The Latour-Giraud was somewhat sharper, more focused showing than previous week. Absolutely a point with lovely balance and classic meursault notes of butterscotch, some hazelnuts and minerals. The Mikulski wasn’t quite as precise as last week and overall the L-G took the honours by a head.
For the second course we had stuffed pigs tail with jerusalem artichokes and suckling pig belly with chestnuts and wild mushrooms. The pigs tail seemed not to have quite the flavour richness of previous servings but the pork belly was magnificent. Again a perfect pairing with the classic, austere/precise and masculine Faiveley Latricieres:
1991 Faiveley Latricières-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru (12/29/2009)
Served alongside the 90 at Ledbury dinner. Still very dark colour to the rim. Nose starting to open up but palate still very young/focused. Lovely balance, lots of dark berry fruits and iron/minerals. Great wine.
1990 Faiveley Latricières-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru (12/29/2009)
Served alongside the 91 at Ledbury dinner. Slightly lighter colour than the 91 with similar, slightly lighter, redder fruit profile on the palate. At first, enamel stripping tannins but with air these softened and the wine drank beautifully, although without quite the regal presence of the 91. Still, very good indeed.
For the third course we had poached breast of pigeon with red cabbage puree, celeriac and grapes. Again, the rich flavours worked beautifully with the supple, voluptuous, serious Grand Cru Mugneret-Gibourg Ruchottes:
1998 Domaine Georges Mugneret/Mugneret-Gibourg Ruchottes-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru (12/29/2009)
Great contrast to the more masculine Faiveley Latricieres from the previous flight. Much more supple and seductive palate and nose than the more serious, stern Faiveleys. The 98 had a notably more vibrant fruit profile than the softer, almost blowsy, 2000. However, the wine seemed tainted to me by some metallic notes that persisted throughout the mid-palate and finish.
2000 Domaine Georges Mugneret/Mugneret-Gibourg Ruchottes-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru (12/29/2009)
Great contrast to the more masculine Faiveley Latricieres from the previous flight. Much more supply and seductive palate and nose than the more serious, stern Faiveleys. The 98 had a notably more vibrant fruit profile than the softer, almost blowsy, 2000. Still, clearly grand cru quality here.
Most people at the table finished with poached and roasted pineapple with gingerbread cannelloni and lemongrass ice cream which seemed like a hit. I went with the passionfruit souffle and sauternes ice cream. Both dishes went beautifully with:
1989 Huët Vouvray Cuvée Constance - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (12/29/2009)
Slightly red/pink colour. Gloriously precise nose and palate. Such weightless weight! So much subtlety of flavour that worked so well with the passionfruit souffle and sauternes ice cream dessert.
For me, the Constance was actually WOTN!
For our second dinner with Charles and Bob we were hosted by Charles Morgan who was on great form. Nicos and Linden also joined us. We started with a really interesting pair of rieslings provided by Nicos and Linden. Nicos brought a simply wonderful 1966 german spatlese which unfortunately I forgot to note the name/producer of! It was pale pink colour with flashes of gold and reminded me a lot in its perfect balance of the constance from the night before. The 2004 Dry River Riesling Late Harvest (Spatlese) from New Zealand was an absolute revelation. Rich but perfectly balanced and great foil for the 66 german. This wine was a NZ Donnhoff and I can’t think of a better complement. We had these with some great smoked salmon
With an enormous and fabulous rib of beef we moved on to our Judgement of South Ken - 50s claret vs 70s cali cabs:
1976 Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Georges de Latour Private Reserve - USA, California, Napa Valley (12/30/2009)
Bought on release and stored perfectly since then until being brought from atlanta to London for this dinner. The most perfect bottle condition any of us had ever seen for a wine of this age - the cork was less than 2mm soaked with the wine! Popped and poured an hour later. Almost black to the rim. Nose of black fruit and something that reminded me of the wonderful Diamond Creek Volcanic Hill that Jeff Leve so kindly brought over a few months ago. With air, the nose morphed into masses and masses of black truffles. Still so young though as to be a little disjointed but a glorious showing overall and great fun to pair it with the 55 Lanessan.
1955 Château Lanessan - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc (12/30/2009)
Second time with this wine for me from Linden’s cellar. This bottle was even younger and more serious than the previous which was a fully resolved and wonderfully expressive mass of red fruits. This was almost dark to the rim and full of black fruits and truffles. Was a truly classic claret in the good sense and a great match for the 70s BVs served alongside it. It didn’t quite have the power they had or the grandeur of the 59 ausone but still a great claret.
1970 Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Georges de Latour Private Reserve - USA, California, Napa Valley (12/30/2009)
Bought on release and stored perfectly since then until being brought from atlanta to London for this dinner. Bottle was in absolutely perfect condition. Popped and poured an hour later. Almost black to the rim again. Stunning, voluptuous wine with real depth of black fruit and truffles. No hard edges whatsoever, pefect balance and depth. Remarkable wine.
1959 Château Ausone - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru (12/30/2009)
Bottle in excellent condition with mid-high shoulder fill and largely intact label. The cork came out in one unbroken piece. Bottle was opened at 4pm and left without cork until being carried to dinner at 6.30pm. It was served at around 9.30pm. The wine was remarkably dark all the way to the rim. This foretold a much younger showing than the previous bottle served 2 years ago. Smooth, deep, powerful, serious wine with nose of brown sugar, lead pencil and dark fruits. Tannins fully resolved but still plenty of structure on the palate. Stunning performance for a 50 yeard old bottle although my heart is with the previous bottle for its incredible cigar box aromatics. It will be interesting to compare Vauthier’s Ausones at age 50!
With a great cheese plate we finished with:
1966 Sandeman Porto Vintage - Portugal, Douro, Porto (12/30/2009)
Opened and double decanted for 12 hours before serving. Fantastic port and another example of one that makes you ask why you don’t drink port every day! Such deep black fruit caressing the palate. Gorgeous with a great cheese plate from Charles.A couple of great dinners with two wonderful southern gentleman who will be missed.